The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

My shakes only when the brakes are held at the lights. When I've stopped and let go of the brakes, it idles very smoothly

I am trying to remove the by using a 17mm socket and for some reason it is slipping and thereby chewing the bolt head. Anyone had this experience?

You don't need to remove it to service it. Perhaps get the base off but just leave it hanging so you can remove the fairings (if you're doing the valves).

Has anyone adjusted the catcher slightly higher to make it easier to click in?

+1 Tyre pressure is important indeed. Maybe not check them every week but at least once every 2 months if not every month. Our tyres are small relative to a car so any air loss which will happen on these schrader valves will impact the pressures greater than a car tyre. On my bicycle I check it ever...

Maybe an overkill but I use the pump for my bicycle on it. It's a Topeak Joe Blow which fits the front and rear.

At the same time, if you don't use the tank of fuel in say 2-3 weeks, putting a higher octane fuel ensures that it remains just above the minimum needed.

Love the horn on the sidecar.

Taz, Australia's fuel numbers are RON. RON 91 = MON 87. I fill mine with RON 98 = MON 91 because it cost <$1 anyway per tank and now that I fill up a jerry can where I can fill up whenever I like outside of the price cycle, it's also the same fuel I use in the car so I can use up the small jerry can...

Looks good. I'm waiting for 5050 waterproof ones to go into the red lens of the topbox.

Basically if someone wants your property, they'll get it short of locking the bike in a bank vault or just sit on the bike all day long to guard it.

Unless your enine isn't runnin correctly and you are having loss of power than I wouldn't get the valve adjustment done either. It is quite expensive and can eliminate the fuel savings compared to driving a fuel-efficient car. I was going to DIY the valve check job since I have dismantled the panel...

Given the bike doesn't really need any permanently connected power to say keep the clock in sync or an onboard alarm active, it just might be a "quick and dirty" way to have one kill switch. Add another one in the line for extra security. Just make sure the switch if it's in the under seat...

Just thinking out loud but would/could a kill switch be installed inside the box whereby it just disconnect the battery in the off position? and by being inside the storage box underneath, we could flip the switch discretely and anyone watching us taking stuff out from there would know no better bec...

I'm just referring to what Honda says to do as opposed to what actually happens. Invariably the plastic panels that needs to be removed so frequently would be prone to breaking

I skipped this step, so maybe I'm missing something that may prevent what I'm about to say. But my opinion: when you fire up the engine the whole point of waiting a night to cool down is spoiled. Heat transfer will have its effect in the valves even in 5 seconds since the combustion temperature is ...

It is ridiculous that valves needs to be checked more often than an oil change. If that was the case, why wouldn't/couldn't you design valves that don't require adjustment checks??

I did try to get the Honda's HP4M oil although they seem to be out of stock of them. I still have time before the 1000km is up anyway (800 now) but I just want the stuff handy so when the time comes, I can just drop the oil there and then.

How do you pour the oil in? Do you use a funnel or an old water bottle with the top cut out?

I found after not finding the oil in stock and that every store telling me I can use the normal MC oil, I'm going to go with my left over Mobil 1 5W-30 after 1000km coz it seems any old oil will do.

I must be the only one that likes the bump. :-) keeps me from slouching too much but I am not exactly tall tall either.