Paint job

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Sat Jan 10, 2015 1:16 pm

I have a white PCX. I am considering painting the black panels and cowling in a colour. Has anyone had experience of doing this and is there any problems, is there any priming to be done? I was not thinking of spray can, beause of the cost and difficulty of producing a uniform finish.
Any suggestions please?

dem0nk1d · Post by **dem0nk1d** » Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:14 pm

scuff all plastic painted panels with 220, then prime and sand to 600, paint and your done.

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Sun Jan 18, 2015 7:11 am

dem0nk1d wrote:scuff all plastic painted panels with 220, then prime and sand to 600, paint and your done.

Thanks for the information, sounds sensible.

speedandstyle · Post by **speedandstyle** » Sun Jan 18, 2015 2:27 pm

Another thing that helps a lot with plastic panels is to use an adhesion promoter. It is similar to a primer but helps paints stick better to the plastic. SEM makes great products but they can be pricey. Dupli-color makes one as well and it works pretty good. Also keep in mind that better paints work better than lesser quality paints. Make sure NOT to use lacquer based paints as they tend to eat some plastics.

meissinger · Post by **meissinger** » Sun Jan 18, 2015 8:12 pm

years ago, I repainted an old red Honda 50 cc scooter in metallic gun metal grey. I dismantled the bodywork and wet sanded the entire surface with 200-600 grit paper, primed it, sprayed a coat, wet sanded that with 600, sprayed another coat (some of the panels I did more than 2 coats), and it came out looking like it had come off the showroom floor that way. Patience and care and you can have your scoot any color (or combination) you want.

dem0nk1d · Post by **dem0nk1d** » Mon Jan 19, 2015 9:43 pm

dem0nk1d wrote:scuff all plastic painted panels with 220, then prime and sand to 600, paint and your done.

always wet sand, i find it easier to deal with in the long run. cleaner finish in the product. and yes you can actually buy automotive paint in rattle cans. ask your local auto paint supplier.

also get the plastic adhesion promoter

maddiedog · Post by **maddiedog** » Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:28 am

Plastidip is AWESOME if you want to minimize prep work. Wash, clean, spray. It's durable stuff too.

dem0nk1d · Post by **dem0nk1d** » Thu Jan 22, 2015 9:00 pm

http://www.zumaforums.net/phpBB3/viewto ... 57&t=20367
^old post of mine...

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Fri Jan 23, 2015 10:52 am

dem0nk1d wrote:http://www.zumaforums.net/phpBB3/viewto ... 57&t=20367
^old post of mine...

Interesting thank you.
Just a point. Would it help if the panels were put flat to avoid runs? I am sure hanging verticle will encourage the paint to run downwards no matter how thin you apply it. I also appreciate how there would be problems in painting the edges on a flat layout, unless you placed them under some sort of island support.

chucktuna · Post by **chucktuna** » Fri Jan 23, 2015 10:59 am

Great write up from dem0n..

Follow his advice.

You shouldn't be spraying it thick (wet) enough to cause runs no matter what the orientation. Build it up in lighter coats.

The main reasons for hanging parts are access to all edges and less dirt falling onto vertical surfaces.

I've done my Morphous with Plasidip.
It was easy to use, but not as durable as a real paint job.
Its made to be good for a year or two, then removed and redone. IMO

NMpdx13 · Post by **NMpdx13** » Fri Jan 23, 2015 2:02 pm

I want to paint my bike like this someday: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_edfB5dbsE

Keith · Post by **Keith** » Sat Jan 24, 2015 11:13 am

Thanks for all the tips, and the video from dem0n,

I will wait for the weather to warm up before proceeding.

Plastidip is far too expensive in the UK.

Alibally · Post by **Alibally** » Sat Jan 24, 2015 11:43 am

I use a hot air gun to warm the item that's been painted gently to speed things up a bit.
We have to paint parking sensors to colour code the to bumpers when replacing them at work.
A light dusting first then a decent coat of paint before a coat of clear lacquer.

Lancer525 · Post by **Lancer525** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 1:37 pm

This isn't remotely the same thing, but I've been thinking about doing the side panels and the panel where the fuel cap cover is in the 3M Di-NOC carbon fiber vinyl.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 4285847665

Just a quick Google and I think there's nothing that can't be covered with the stuff. Except maybe the exhaust system...

https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+carb ... 4&dpr=1.33

I'm leaning towards the silver because I'd like to get a light-gray seat cover so that I don't burn my tushie in the summer.

From what I understand, with a little patience, and a decent heat gun, this stuff applies very easily to compound curves, and irregular shapes. There are hundreds of "how-to" videos on YouTube that show how to put this stuff on everything from inside door panels in cars, to mirrors, and even helmets.

chucktuna · Post by **chucktuna** » Fri Jan 30, 2015 5:28 pm

I've used the 3M stuff on my Big Ruckus side panels.
Good stuff, but there is a small learning curve....

Lancer525 · Post by **Lancer525** » Sat Jan 31, 2015 11:38 am

Man, that looks great! Exactly the look I was hoping it would have, and you did an absolutely bang-up job with it.

chucktuna · Post by **chucktuna** » Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:16 pm

Lancer525 wrote:Man, that looks great! Exactly the look I was hoping it would have, and you did an absolutely bang-up job with it.

Thank you very much
It took me a good hour+ on each side panel to get it satisfactory.
If you do decide to use it, I'd do a few thing differently.
They sell some kind of adhesion promoter or glue to use around the edges.
I didn't use any and over time, it has shrank in some areas and pulled away in others, where it was stretched to fit concave spots.
The glue is supposed to prevent that from happening, but it also makes it a more permanent install.... Something to think about.

On an area like this fender, its impossible, at least for me, to do it with one piece.

I ended up seaming it on both sides.
It just wouldn't shrink enough to handle all the material once it made the top section.
There probably was a better way...

And a few more of the side panels in progress.

Lancer525 · Post by **Lancer525** » Mon Feb 02, 2015 9:07 am

I didn't know about the adhesion promoter. Guess I haven't done enough research yet!

Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely have to look into that.

I'm most concerned about the transition into the area where the side panels become the footrests. I'm really not sure exactly where I'm going to stop the vinyl in that area. The problem might be solved by the addition of aftermarket footrest cover plates I've seen.

You've done a really great job with that wrap.

speedandstyle · Post by **speedandstyle** » Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:30 pm

I have done some vinyl wrapping and the 3M DiNoc is the best. The carbon fiber not only looks cool but has a neat texture too. I wrapped the front fender on my old Yamaha Zuma.

I also used two pieces to do my fender but hid the seam where it mounts so it couldn't be seen. Also the CF pattern will distort in areas where you have to stretch it a lot{major curves}. Heat is your friend when wrapping anything other than a flat surface. A good hair dryer set on high works great. DON'T use a heat gun unless you are super careful as it gets the vinyl wrap too soft and never when working on a plastic part. The adhesive is pressure sensitive so make sure you fully burnish the vinyl into place. The adhesion promotor{3M calls it a primer} does help.

Lancer525 · Post by **Lancer525** » Tue Feb 03, 2015 7:59 am

I have to get a hair dryer now?

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