Scan Tool for Honda Scooters??

[buddy1976]

Who is going to be the first?

I already did it this morning and got a solid orange CEL/MIL on the dash. Nothing started smoking or caught fire, and the scoot started normally.

Iceman's link to the CBR500 forum confirms you bridge the solid green and brown wires, which is what I said it was for the newer LED model.
Just remember its blue and brown on the older OWL model!
In the CBR500 forum link it also says you get a solid continuous CEL/MIL if everything is working fine. So my scoot isn't bricked. YAY!

thanks guys Gonna give this a fry.....erm try..i mean. hopefully this will save(or cost!) me a few quid.
Wish me luck!
When you say old OWL model being blue/brown does that include the 2nd gen 2012/13 125 esp models?

[chicaboo]

When you say old OWL model being blue/brown does that include the 2nd gen 2012/13 125 esp models?

Yes, particularly the 2nd gen 125 ESP and original 150, as I have no not worked on a first gen 125, but I imagine it's the same story.
You can spot the owl by the beak/eyes/ears owl face headlight design that Honda oh so loved during that time in their design studio.

[relic]

Looks like if you stay away from the orange-black wires you are OK.
Haven't tried it myself cause my bike in in the shed and I don't feel like digging a path through the snow to find it.

[aguim]

On the Forza, it's the Green/Black and Brown wires (I have the System Diagram, and the SCS connector, here).
When there is a problem, the MIL will automaticly flash its specific code when the ign. switch is turned
ON (no need to plug the 'jumper/connector). That connector is used only to have access to, or erase,
codes from the computer memory (example : codes from past intermittant problems not showing 'now'.

To test the system operation, just unplug one of the (covered) components. The MIL will instantly flash
its trouble code (ex:21 --two longs, one short blinks for the O2 sensor). Re-plug that sensor, and
the MIL will stop blinking (but that code will stay in memory). There is a procedure to erase the memory codes using the SCS jumper/connector.

I find the $pecial $canner useless. It doesn't tell much more than what is needed to know.
Here are the codes: (1) MAP sensor (intake vacuum) // (7) Engine Coolant Temp. sensor //(8) TPS
sensor //(9) Intake Air Temp. sensor //(12) injector // (21) O2 sensor // (29) IACV --idle speed valve
//(33) ECM problem //(54) lean angle sensor. Sorry, no code for the CKP, fuel pump motor, ignition coil,
that's the way it is ! (these can be tested for ohms, etc with a multimeter).

PS : never plug/unplug a component when the ign. switch is ON.

[relic]

I think aguim nailed it!
Wish I was as proficient with the printed word.

[aguim]

relic,
I've worked on bikes for years, it helps. The shop manual helps, too! (I've learned much
of my english in shop manuals, btw).

[buddy1976]

I have replaced the ECU in the past with a 2nd hand one, will this method show previous faults(from the scooter it came from) if it has not been reset?
If so Does anyone know the method for resetting the ECU to erase historical faults?

Cheers

[iceman]

I have replaced the ECU in the past with a 2nd hand one, will this method show previous faults(from the scooter it came from) if it has not been reset?
If so Does anyone know the method for resetting the ECU to erase historical faults?
Cheers

Try having a look at the links I posted above - someone mentioned a way to reset the ECU using the wire and connector for Honda/bikes - may work.

[aguim]

On ERASING past code alerts (remember, simply disconnecting a COVERED component
then turning the switch on will register its specific code --as well as a real problem would):

(1) with the switch OFF, connect the diagnostic jump-plug to the red DLC (under the right
side glove box cover)
(2) turn the switch ON...pull the plug OUT...the MIL will light for 5 seconds
(3) you now have 5 seconds to put the jump-plug back on . The MIL should go OFF, then
start blinking.

Done, shut the switch off, remove the j-plug.

I paid 30$ for the Honda j-plug, only to realize that a cheap jump-wire could do the job as
good (colors are shown above by RELIC).

[buddy1976]

I have replaced the ECU in the past with a 2nd hand one, will this method show previous faults(from the scooter it came from) if it has not been reset?
If so Does anyone know the method for resetting the ECU to erase historical faults?
Cheers

Try having a look at the links I posted above - someone mentioned a way to reset the ECU using the wire and connector for Honda/bikes - may work.

Thanks ive reset the ecu i'm getting a solid amber light now, will check after the work run tomorrow to see if any codes flash, hopefully the fault codes were just inherited with the 2nd hand ecu.

for anyone wanting to know the method for reseting the ecu its as follows:

Once the fault has been identified and corrected, it will be necessary to reset the system by removing the fault code from the ECM memory. To do this, ensure the ignition is switched OFF then bridge the terminals of the service check connector as before.
Turn the ignition ON then disconnect the bridge wire from the service check connector.
When the wire is removed the FI light should come on for approximately five seconds, during which time the bridging wire must be reconnected.
The warning light should start to flash when the bridging wire is reconnected, indicating that all the fault codes have been erased. However, if the light flashes twenty times then the memory has not been erased and the procedure should be repeated.
Turn off the ignition then remove the bridging wire.
Check the operation of the warning light ( in some cases it may be necessary to repeat the erasing procedure more than once ) then replace the seat.

[izani]

Do google for HiDS (Honda Injection Diagnostic System) by Starnics, from Indonesia. Used by Honda dealer there.

[eshroom]

So given we can read fault codes with a paperclip, can we also reset the ECU with a paperclip, and will it be the same cables as on the From?

https://youtu.be/ecISRHNFEOU

This guy also does it on a PCX though in a much more questionable looking way - though the check engine light still flashes as in the Grom video. Any idea what cables are being jumped?

I think my TPS is playing up and want to try a reset before exploring deeper. The symptoms under load just don't feel mechanical, I have a hunch it's electric and assume an ECU reset will also reset the TPS.

[you you]

So given we can read fault codes with a paperclip, can we also reset the ECU with a paperclip, and will it be the same cables as on the From?

https://youtu.be/ecISRHNFEOU

This guy also does it on a PCX though in a much more questionable looking way - though the check engine light still flashes as in the Grom video. Any idea what cables are being jumped?

I think my TPS is playing up and want to try a reset before exploring deeper. The symptoms under load just don't feel mechanical, I have a hunch it's electric and assume an ECU reset will also reset the TPS.

Can’t you do a reset simply by disconnecting the battery?

[eshroom]

YouTube video reset didn't work, buddy1976 method did reset though. Please ignore my post.

Also disconnecting battery does not reset ECU.