hey whats up
just wanted to chime in on engine stretches
I build 2 stretches for other model bikes out there and you have to take into account a few things when looking at buying a stretch
first off all the scooters ive worked on the engine is mounted on rubber bushings to help with vibrations
most times a stretch will not have bushings, so it can add vibrations depending on engine size
larger engine more vibrations
Why most dont have the bushings is because depending how long it is, you can put alot of stress on them and over time they get stretched and cause wheel lean depending on how the stretch is supported to the frame
Any scooter stock engine mount ive seen has some support to the frame to keep it from moving up and down
only the engine pivots on the mount
and you have to address the rear shock mount
Now that 3 inch stretch thats available for the pcx you say doesnt come with rear shock mounts
that is going to lower the rear when installed
Which means you probably will want to lower the front so it sits level
Also it will make using the center stand really hard
May have to chop the kickstand down too, especially if you lower the front
Hopefully you have enough cable slack
Now I have a 155 scooter I make a 9 inch stretch for
Im not the first one to make these and im not the inventor either
I took things I like from the few other stretches already made and put together my own
For this bike its a bottom engine mount
so its quite simple to make a stretch, basically flat
you can use your imagination for that part
Next is the rear shock mounts, since its 9 inches longer then stock you have to address that
I was able to get the correct angle so it keeps the same exact ride height, as stock did
which also means no chopping of the kickstand, and at the same time you can keep the stock air box
To me that was important
Other stretches you have to take that out, then your stuck making an intake and filter
Also depending on where parts are located you may need to chop out some underseat storage
On my bike it was a tiny amount, because the stretch was so long
If it was shorter it would need alot more cut out
I also integrated a license plate mount into the rear shock mount, that was my own invention no one had done that
since you basically loose the entire rear fender with a stretch like this
Depending on your fab skills you could be forced to buy a plate mount so that saves the customer money too since its built in
I also use adjustable turnbuckles for each side of the stretch, the stock engine mount used one non adjustable which was fine
and I know one a couple stretch sellers still use that on one side, non adjustable
which means your engine angle is set, you can not change it
If you lower the bike, or raise it your stuck with the engine angle
To me thats important to be able to adjust, so your dipstick level is the same and of course the engine stays oiled the same also not to drag it on large bumps when the suspension moves
So my turnbuckles I can adjust engine angle, ride height
and with a stretch that long you can get wheel lean if using a support only on one side
Top right of the wheel pointing at 1o'clock
So the adjustable rods can tweak that out so the wheel is perfectly straight
Sadly the heim joints used really adds alot of cost to the stretch but to me its better to be able to adjust for any bike then force someone to use what you want to save a little
