The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

JonW wrote:At the end of the threads when the plug is able to be pulled out the back of the socket is hitting the frame.

Would moving the cylinder head help?
If so get someone to apply some weight on the seat with it off the centrestand.

gn2 wrote:

JonW wrote:At the end of the threads when the plug is able to be pulled out the back of the socket is hitting the frame.

Would moving the cylinder head help?
If so get someone to apply some weight on the seat with it off the centrestand.

Good idea, worth trying.

Have you succeeded in replacing the spark plug so far? I'm also interested in doing this, not because I feel something going on, but I see in the manual it's recommended to change it every 8000 km

Hyadum wrote:Have you succeeded in replacing the spark plug so far? I'm also interested in doing this, not because I feel something going on, but I see in the manual it's recommended to change it every 8000 km

Not yet. I'm waiting for warmer weather so it will be easier to take off all the plastic panels with less chance of breaking any tabs.

With the panels off I'm planning on also doing several maintenance and upgrade items at the same time, including checking/adjusting the valves, installing a Vololight license plate frame, replacing the horn, and installing new YSS rear shocks.

I'm hoping with more direct access to the plug it will be much easier than trying to maneuver thru the side door. I'll report back after that...

Hyadum wrote:Have you succeeded in replacing the spark plug so far? I'm also interested in doing this, not because I feel something going on, but I see in the manual it's recommended to change it every 8000 km

Imagine not changing the spark plug if it's not necessary......

Originals in my old Peugeot are still going strong after 160k miles and 12 years.

Hi, just to ask what torque is recommended when tighten pcx sparkplug ?

deyan890 wrote:Hi, just to ask what torque is recommended when tighten pcx sparkplug ?

No, no.
Don't use a torque wrench unless you have a very well calibrated small torque wrench. ....BEST is to follow instructions on the spark plug box.
Finger tight it in until bottoms, then give it a turn with socket -- box should tell you what FRACTION of a full turn to use to snug the plug. It will not be a full turn, once you bottom the plug.
Little danger of stripping if done this way.
Fish

JonW wrote:

you you wrote:I wouldn't put anything on the threads

Why?

It's pretty standard procedure with aluminum engine blocks where the metal of the block is different than the metal of the plug. It makes removing the plug later much easier and without ruining the threads in the engine block.

Anti-sieze usually requires a little more torque when initially tightening down the plug to compress the washer, since it has a very small lubricating effect when new.

Have used this all the time in my Miatas without any problems.

I also use anti-seize on almost everything to prevent galling & thread stripping, especially with stainless steel, alloy or mixed-metal threads. With spark plugs, I do not apply on the 1st several threads, rather starting on the 3rd thread or so from the tip or so to prevent any of it getting in the cylinders. But, this is a personal preference, I know mechanics who rarely use it. I even use it on lug nuts. Never had a fastener come loose because of it. But again it's a personal thing I guess, some people use either a dab of oil or on the larger coarse threads - one wrap of teflon tape.

On a related goo, with silicone sealant and oil drain plugs, I also keep it off the 1st several threads - don't want any getting into the crankcase. And on rebuilds, I don't use silicone at all on gasket faces because of the risk of silicone "worms" getting into the coolant or oil circuits. I have personal experience of the havoc these can cause on older brit bike engines - clogging an oilway. I did put a small 'dab' of it on the corner of my PCX valve cover gasket as recommended though. But again, it's a personal preference I guess. I know some mechanics I really respect use silicone on gaskets but are careful to only apply on the outside edges so the excess squeezes out of the engine - seems like a good idea.

fish wrote: No, no.
Don't use a torque wrench unless you have a very well calibrated small torque wrench. ....BEST is to follow instructions on the spark plug box.
Finger tight it in until bottoms, then give it a turn with socket -- box should tell you what FRACTION of a full turn to use to snug the plug. It will not be a full turn, once you bottom the plug.
Little danger of stripping if done this way.
Fish

I see, thank you for the quick answer

I found out that removing the spark plug while on side stand is way easier that on center stand. try it!

like totomclub2005 wrote... Put yout PCX on the SIDE STAND and you will get perfect access to the plug. You can remove it with a Honda tools.