The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

you you wrote:
It's got ten tweenyweeny hp

Ok, that's enough taunting....

Slickvic wrote:

you you wrote:
It's got ten tweenyweeny hp

Ok, that's enough taunting....

Ok maybe 12 "tuned"

i heard theb snorkle mod what do you mean just remove the snorkle in the box or what maybe a bit of explaination

Just remove the snorkel. I have done this to both my PCX and my CBR250R. It is there to cancel intake noise but is also causing a slight restriction. The fuel computer will adapt to the change.

do you have a pic im confused on the wording i believe im from the ruckus scene the "snorkel" on those is the intake tube

The snorkel is right inside the air cleaner.

does increasing the size of the tube from the air box to the throttle body make any noticable difference? I know i've seen a picture of it done. I'm just trying to get a little more torque for top end acceleration. With my 13g weights and NCY variator the scooter will reach 77mph down hill. I havn't tried dr pulley sliders yet.

Mgalutia88 wrote:does increasing the size of the tube from the air box to the throttle body make any noticable difference? I know i've seen a picture of it done. I'm just trying to get a little more torque for top end acceleration. With my 13g weights and NCY variator the scooter will reach 77mph down hill. I havn't tried dr pulley sliders yet.

No

Well today I took my new PCX 150 out on a ride following my husband on his BMW K1600 GTL. Almost took my Spyder but really wanted to find out what the scooter could do. We had a headwind the entire way of 10mph gusting to maybe 15 or so. The route north to Muenster, Tx took us along back roads through the country where the speed limit was anywhere from 55 to 75 mph. Started out okay hitting 60 easy but as soon as it got hilly and that gusty wind hit my tall windshield my speed dropped to 55mph with my throttle wide open. My husband kept carping at me over the Senna to "ride it like I stole it", but that's all the PCX would give me until I started downhill. Back on flatter terrain I was reaching 60 /65 again when the wind died back. My gas mileage went from 114 mpg to 71 by the time we got to Muenster. Heading back with a tailwind and not pushing the engine so hard I was back at 114. I was really surprised how much the wind beat me up but my weight plus the bike was barely 400 pounds so that probably contributed to the rough ride. Truthfully I didn't buy the bike for extended rides at a steady 65 to 70 mph since I have the Can Am for that. I like running around town and to work and back on the PCX so I'm pleased with it. Just wanted to see what it could do!

Mgalutia88 wrote:does increasing the size of the tube from the air box to the throttle body make any noticable difference? I know i've seen a picture of it done. I'm just trying to get a little more torque for top end acceleration. With my 13g weights and NCY variator the scooter will reach 77mph down hill. I havn't tried dr pulley sliders yet.

No I made a plaster cast of the inside of the tube and it is bigger than the throttle body. Removing the rubber widget from the front of the airbox helps a little.

İ've changed my variator rollers.And my pcx 150 top speed became 111
İt was 101 before.Dr pulley 16 grams instead of original stock rollers 13 gr

I've gone from 95 to 115 with 11g Dr Pulley sliders. You might want to go a bit lighter?

Acceleration will be much better with 12 or 11 gram sliders. But top speed isn't affected the different mass of the weights unless you get so light that the variator never pushes all of the way out. Which would be hard to do. Something like 5 or 6 grams?

I think in my case the extra revs from 11g sliders provided me with the power I needed to go faster.
So in that regard changing the weight does effect top speed if you don't have the power to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds.

Just remember to get the most speed out of your PCX, you also micro manage other items. Use a synthetic 10w30 instead of 10w40 or 20w50. Your differential should have synthetic also, 10w30 up to a 75w90 gear oil. Synthetic will run cooler. Heat is cause by friction, which is horsepower. The tire pressure is very important. If you are running higher speeds, I bump up my tire pressure by 2-3psi. It's little more harsher ride, but the extra performance is worth it. After a long ride I always put the palm of my hand on the tire tread front and rear. Check the temp of the differential also. 2-3psi will change the temps of both. Remember more heat is more friction. When you start adding up .05-.1 hp increase for everything you manage, can make a difference. Maybe not big hp gains, but you will get better ride-ability. Steering head set correctly, clean engine, clean differential, clean windshield and paint and keep your limbs inside the pocket of air behind the screen and body parts!

Ride safe, ride often!

^ not forgetting of course that some tires are larger in diameter so IRC tires which are larger give more mph.

I just picked up a used 2011 PCX 125 today with 1,900 miles on it. I drove home on the highway and I hit 63mph on flat road and still felt I could go faster but kept it safe. I weigh just under 300lbs.

Common mistake that people think if weight has anythin to do with level top speed.
It doesn't. Weight affects acceleration and also top speed while climbing (or in fact coming down fromna slope) but on level ground only available engine power and drag (air- and rolling resistance and drivetrain losses) what counts. So

kramnala58 wrote:

Fez wrote:Next step would be to get a "taller rear tire", like a 140-70-14 that dasshreddar mentioned. Any downsides to this? What's involved, new wheel/tire and to a shop to get it installed (I'm a computer guy, not a mechanic, yet!).

I had a 140-70-14 put on mine. My speed registered on a GPS unit shows that I am going about 5-8% slower than what the speedometer indicates. I do not know what the difference was between the GPS and speedometer before I swapped the tire out. The 140-70-14 is as large as you can go without other modifications. With the 140-70-14 there is minimal clearance on the rear inside mud guard but I was able to lift it a bit with a zip tie so that it doesn't rub when I go over a bump. Judging by your description of yourself, you will likely need to get it put on at a shop instead of DIY. You do not need another wheel, just the tire.

Fez wrote:... do you mean 250cc is what's needed for the turnpike, since they upped it to 70, or are other "highways" like I-480 included? Maybe just "I" roads? Not that I plan to necessarily ride them, but on occasion a couple of exits might be needed.

I am assuming that Ohio is the same as New York which would mean that it is all of the "I" (Interstate) highways, although the cc limits may vary from state to state.

Fez wrote:Thanks for all the great feedback, now to work on losing 20-30lbs

I hear you ... been there, done that, doing it again ... okay, maybe not doing it again, but should be doing it again

Bigger rear tire makes sense. My 2013 150 started at 62 max, now limiter is kicking in at 58 from wear and tear of something I'll be checking on soon.

All I want is 65 or 67 as the bike actually gets those speeds. The limiter is incredibly annoying and actually more of a hazard than a blessing.

If I have to trick the bike into thinking it's going slower, I will do that so I can keep up with traffic etc.

One more note: WHERE is the limiter located on the bike. I want to mechanically understand what's going on down there.....

I am not the mechanic in the group, but I can tel you that as the belt wears your top end will go down. If you upgrade to the NCY variator, drive face and 13 gram weight without changing out the belt for a new one, you won't see any difference in top end. The limiter is a pain to everyone, but it was put there for a reason, so all we can do is work with it. The horsepower can not be changed either. It is a little, economic scooter. That is what it was built for, so all we can do is squeeze as much out of it as we can with mods. A big bore kit would help, but then you are getting into the mechanic's world.