The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

I searched and couldn't find much on plugs for performance.

What plug does everyone run. Have you experimented with a hotter or colder plug? If you run aftermarket intake/exhaust, do you see any plug issues.

Its common knowledge that once you run intake/exhaust, you lean out the bike if you don't get a tuner (which I don't have). Last time I pulled the plug, It looked like it was getting very hot and there was some damage on the electrode. Anyone else experience this? I'll get pictures soon.

Suggestion:

Don't waste money on plugs. Ya some might be better... but you're looking at maybe .1 to .2 of a horsepower. Just go with the factory stuff and be done with it.

op3l wrote:Suggestion:

Don't waste money on plugs. Ya some might be better... but you're looking at maybe .1 to .2 of a horsepower. Just go with the factory stuff and be done with it.

I guess I'm not so much looking at "Performance gains" more so optimal performance when you run intake and exhaust.

This time around I went with a Cooler plug than stock in hopes of not burning up the electrode. I'll be changing it out tomorrow to show what happens to a stock plug.
Personally I wish I could find a compatible E3 plug but no luck.

I don't know about Performance but I changed the stock plug at 30288km with the Iridium plug NGK CPR7EAIX-9. Now almost 15000km later, I am not sure it made any difference. Do you change plugs every 8000km (5000miles) like in the manual?

Conelite wrote:
This time around I went with a Cooler plug than stock in hopes of not burning up the electrode. I'll be changing it out tomorrow to show what happens to a stock plug.

I think that's the right move. You know what you are doing.

I totally forgot I swapped to the iridium. Same one raito runs. You can see how lean its running from the white coat on it..

Just found the original plug before I changed to iridium.
Here is the iridium with maybe 1k miles. You can see how lean its running from the white coating on it. New Colder NGK going in.

Cool little observation.

Stock: 6
Iridium: 7
Latest one i installed: 9

I donno about the idea that a cooler plug with cure a lean running situation. Whenever I changed the exhaust on my 150 Vespa (Stella), I first installed a CHT and baselined head temps at various running situations, then rejetted after the exhaust change to mimic the original temps. Same thing when I added 2T oil in the premix to supplement the autolube .... the cylinder head temperature gauge soared when a little oil was added the gas, thus displacing fuel and leaning the mix.

I'd still have that Stella & never bought a PCX if some of them didn't have a risk of high speed seizes due to crankshaft bearing shim issues from the factory. Problem was it wasn't possible to determine which ones would & which one wouldn't.

But the point is that why make "performance" intake or exhaust changes without a plan for ensuring correct fuel/air mix from the onset. The amount of richening needed for that Stella due to the pipe was significant for both for the high speed & midrange jets. But at least on the 2 stroke there was a noticeable increase in HP, where on the 4 stroke PCX there isn't.

That's great info Springer1. Thanks. You are right, a cooler plug wouldnt fix my lean issue. Only more fuel would do that..

That's interesting to hear 2t oil made head temps go up but that does makes total sense. Same volume going into the chamber but less parts of gasoline.

Conelite wrote:That's interesting to hear 2t oil made head temps go up but that does makes total sense. Same volume going into the chamber but less parts of gasoline.

Yep - time to get a 2 stroke PX150 Vespa and start playing with fuel mix, oil mix, pipes, ignition & etc. To the rider - the engine at 50 mph sounds like a turbine and is as smooth as glass.

Radical improvements can be had from that old-school engine & traditional carburetor - has 3 circuits to balance with (idle, midrange & high speed). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnZ-OiLQDgI

Not changed my spark plug nor made any attempt to get it out - now 6+ years on and near mid 20k miles guess I should check. tbh, a bit worried it won't budge. Running fine and starting 1st time on stock plug - no need for after-market 'promise you the world' parts. Still getting 130mpg+

iceman wrote:Not changed my spark plug nor made any attempt to get it out - now 6+ years on and near mid 20k miles guess I should check. tbh, a bit worried it won't budge. Running fine and starting 1st time on stock plug - no need for after-market 'promise you the world' parts. Still getting 130mpg+

Just leave it alone- "Running fine and starting 1st time ..... Still getting 130mpg+" !

springer1 wrote:

iceman wrote:Not changed my spark plug nor made any attempt to get it out - now 6+ years on and near mid 20k miles guess I should check. tbh, a bit worried it won't budge. Running fine and starting 1st time on stock plug - no need for after-market 'promise you the world' parts. Still getting 130mpg+

Just leave it alone- "Running fine and starting 1st time ..... Still getting 130mpg+" !

it's whether it will come out that bothers me should I ever need to get it out - can they 'stick' in place?

iceman wrote:

springer1 wrote:

iceman wrote:Not changed my spark plug nor made any attempt to get it out - now 6+ years on and near mid 20k miles guess I should check. tbh, a bit worried it won't budge. Running fine and starting 1st time on stock plug - no need for after-market 'promise you the world' parts. Still getting 130mpg+

Just leave it alone- "Running fine and starting 1st time ..... Still getting 130mpg+" !

it's whether it will come out that bothers me should I ever need to get it out - can they 'stick' in place?

Not if it was put in correctly, which the factory did. To install a spark plug first dab some anti-seize on the threads, then screw it in with your fingers (not wrench) until you feel the threads easily engage and you can easily tighten it a few turns with your fingers until it's snug.

Only then use a torque wrench to get the final tighten. Don't initially install it with a wrench because you can't feel a cross-thread condition like you can with your fingers.

springer1 wrote:

springer1 wrote:

iceman wrote:Not changed my spark plug nor made any attempt to get it out - now 6+ years on and near mid 20k miles guess I should check. tbh, a bit worried it won't budge. Running fine and starting 1st time on stock plug - no need for after-market 'promise you the world' parts. Still getting 130mpg+

Just leave it alone- "Running fine and starting 1st time ..... Still getting 130mpg+" !

it's whether it will come out that bothers me should I ever need to get it out - can they 'stick' in place?

Actually, NGK says not to use anti seize on their spark plugs. The finish on the new plug prevents seizing, and any substance added to the threads will invalidate correct torque settings - increasing the possibility of over tightening and stripping.
Fish

Actually, NGK says not to use anti seize on their spark plugs. The finish on the new plug prevents seizing, and any substance added to the threads will invalidate correct torque settings - increasing the possibility of over tightening and stripping.
Fish

Thanks for the heads up on that !

What do you guys think about performance ignition coils?

pcx888 wrote: ↑Mon Feb 08, 2021 4:04 pm What do you guys think about performance ignition coils?

Personally on these Bikes I think its not beneficial at all. Even less if you are not BB and serious headwork with some Decking for High compression.

Even on our Big-Bore Rucks with serious head work, Stock was always adequate.

Hello good Morning. I use the ngk cr9eix sails, mine is already about 30/35000 km and I never felt any stress, it's just fine-tuning the gap and walking.
my pcx is 125cc but it has a yuminashi 164cc kit