The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Me fork legs are shagged and I need to rebuild or replace them.
There's two options:

Option 1. Rebuild with new legs
Pro: I know they will be 100% straight and have good quality oil in 'em
Con: p.i.t.a. taking them to bits, fitting new seals, reassembling and refilling with oil.

Option 2. Replace with a decent set of used ones.
Pro: easier job
Con: don't know if they're 100% straight or how worn they are

Price-wise there's not much in it.
Decisions, decisions.

Anyway, can someone with a workshop manual tell me what it says about weight and quantity of fork oil please?
TIA

I've gone for Option 1 because you seem to have the ability to do the job and it will mean you know the forks are up to scratch.
If it were me though, I'd have brand new forks fitted (as I did on my old trusty SLR650)

Bill

gn2 wrote:Me fork legs are shagged and I need to rebuild or replace them.
There's two options:

Option 1. Rebuild with new legs
Pro: I know they will be 100% straight and have good quality oil in 'em
Con: p.i.t.a. taking them to bits, fitting new seals, reassembling and refilling with oil.

Option 2. Replace with a decent set of used ones.
Pro: easier job
Con: don't know if they're 100% straight or how worn they are

Price-wise there's not much in it.
Decisions, decisions.

Anyway, can someone with a workshop manual tell me what it says about weight and quantity of fork oil please?
TIA

How are the legs shagged. They can only be corroded. Fitting new seals is a 10 minute job. I always fit a heavier grade of oil than specified

Pity you didn't live closer as I've got plenty I'd like to use up

The forks are badly corroded.
Removing the rust will leave holes which means a constant cycle of replacing leaky seals.
The only real cure is new fork legs or have the old ones ground and rechromed.
Rechroming gives a better harder surface and more durable fork leg.
Minus points are that it is considerably more expensive and takes a few weeks while the legs are away getting done.

gn2 wrote:The forks are badly corroded.
Removing the rust will leave holes which means a constant cycle of replacing leaky seals.
The only real cure is new fork legs or have the old ones ground and rechromed.
Rechroming gives a better harder surface and more durable fork leg.
Minus points are that it is considerably more expensive and takes a few weeks while the legs are away getting done.

You mean the stanchions rather than the fork legs?

Remove the stanchions. Get rid of the rust with some fine wet and dry. Mix some epoxy resin and fill. Sand back down again with the wet and dry, fit new seals and bob is yer uncle. Fit new seals, turn the repaired area to the rear. Better still fit some gaiters

From the manual:

RECOMMENDED FORK FLUID:
Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8 (10W) or equivalent

FORK FLUID CAPACITY:
118.0 +- 2.5cm^3
(3.99 +- 0.05 US oz, 4.15 +- Imp oz)

Also useful, when the fork is fully compressed, the fluid level from the top of the fork pipe to the top of the fluid should be 75mm (2.95 in).

Hope that helps.

you you wrote:You mean the stanchions rather than the fork legs?

Yes, the chrome bits wot bolt into the yoke.

maddiedog wrote:From the manual:

RECOMMENDED FORK FLUID:
Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8 (10W) or equivalent

FORK FLUID CAPACITY:
118.0 +- 2.5cm^3
(3.99 +- 0.05 US oz, 4.15 +- Imp oz)

Also useful, when the fork is fully compressed, the fluid level from the top of the fork pipe to the top of the fluid should be 75mm (2.95 in).

Hope that helps.

Cheers maddie, super useful and muchly helpful.

GN2,
Lets see pics of your 15k bike then, so then we can have a record of before and after pics.

UPDATE: have recently received a pair of loverly condition used forks in the post, fitting them is my job for the weekend.

gn2 wrote: fitting them is my job for the weekend.

Should not take more than an hour to do the job ,do it friday night and enjoy the free weekend..

nah, it will leave his weekend for performance improvements then

Hopefully I will be able to drop the old forks with all the tupperware still in place.
In which case it should be about an hour, could be longer as I might change the front tyre as well.
No plans to improve the performance just yet Taz, spring next year might be the time to trade up to a 300

gn2 wrote: spring next year might be the time to trade up to a 300

You must be making too much money in that case....Some of us could only dream upgrading to a 300....but hey i manage on budget to make mine go like 300 if that counts for anything and still have few quid left over for beer in the pub..

gn2 wrote:Hopefully I will be able to drop the old forks with all the tupperware still in place.
In which case it should be about an hour, could be longer as I might change the front tyre as well.
No plans to improve the performance just yet Taz, spring next year might be the time to trade up to a 300

Front guard hast to come off but its only couple of bolts or so holding that thing up...You can see my vid of how to remove springs and oil out if you get stuck..

Are you going to fit gaiters?

I would fit gaiters if I could find a pair the right size.
No luck so far.
Guess I'll just have to remember to keep the forks clean.

Pcxdemon wrote:You must be making too much money in that case.

There's no such thing as "too much money"
Starting prices for decent used 250/300 scooters hereabouts are roughly the same as for a used PCX, so it could be possible to trade up for just a few hundred quid.

But... what exactly happened to your fork legs, GN2?. Are they bent, rusty or what's the problem?.

I'd like to see a photo of them, if you don't mind .

gn2 wrote:I would fit gaiters if I could find a pair the right size.
No luck so far.
Guess I'll just have to remember to keep the forks clean.

Pcxdemon wrote:You must be making too much money in that case.

There's no such thing as "too much money"
Starting prices for decent used 250/300 scooters hereabouts are roughly the same as for a used PCX, so it could be possible to trade up for just a few hundred quid.

You can get seal covers that have a small upturned flap. A bit vestigial I know but will help a bit if you are having this kind of problem

They are rusty and leaking very badly.
Honda declined to replace them under warranty.
Will take pics tomorrow.

I know the type of protector you mean yy, but the rust is all round the fork and mostly at the top.
The yoke is totally brown with rust.

The brand new second hand ones look to be perfect and were a bit of a bargain at £70 delivered.

Here are my rusty old forks:


the horror... the horror...