Stretched engine mount

[Urbanfreestyle]

It seems anything more than 3 inches requires cable and wiring mods

[you you]

That mount is bad

[khoachino]

Started working on it today.... I was lucky enough to purchased a used oem mount and extended it 7 3/4 in

[homie]

7 3/4 inches! Oh man this is going to be COOL!

[khoachino]

Cables extended, new rear rim, tire and full system exhaust install, fuel hose extension tomorrow. Still waiting for offset yss shocks from thailand which is going to be forever.

[magic_mike]

anything keeping the stretch at the engine side from lifting up or down

[khoachino]

Currently zip ties on the oem shocks to prevent it moving until i get my new shocks in. Also will have to make an extension for them to prevent from lowering it more than i like to. Other than that, its just an oem mount that have been extended so all the movement should be normal

[magic_mike]

the actual stretch should not move up or down at all

only the engine moves

you dont want double jointed movement

[magic_mike]

the one I sell for the zuma uses 2 side rods that tie the stretch into the frame
they are adjustable so you can set the engine height , and ride height
and using 2 rods can take out any wheel tilt that can happen from such a long stretch
This one is a 9 inch stretch





does the stock engine mount for the pcx have something like that, non adjustable
just a brace that ties into the frame




the stock zuma engine mount uses a single side brace that goes into the frame

[khoachino]

This is the stock, no brace like yours. The side with the rubber feet is what prevents the flexes. I will have to wait for the new shocks and see if there is any flexes and add something like that if needed too. Thanks for the idea incase

[khoachino]

This is the stock, no brace like yours. The side with the rubber feet is what prevents the flexes. I will have to wait for the new shocks and see if there is any flexes and add something like that if needed too. Thanks for the idea incase

[magic_mike]

yeah I know those had the rubber feet
and I was wondering with all the extra stress because yours is so much longer then those other ones
if that could cause them to fail over time, or bounce up and down too much because of all the leverage

that may be why those other ones were so much shorter

but its probably not that hard to add at least one side brace to yours

[khoachino]

I see how you mounted on the stretch itself, but how do you mount on your frame?

[magic_mike]

I see how you mounted on the stretch itself, but how do you mount on your frame?

what the adjuster rods?
there happened to be a tab on the frame on both sides not used and covered by a body panel
so you just enlarge the hole and run a bolt through it

but in your case you could pick a point on your frame, drill a hole to run a long bolt through
or if you happen to have a flat area, or a tab use that

On one side of the stretch there is a welded threaded bung the rod connects to thats what you see in my photo
of course you could just use a long bolt through my stretch, because the way its made not sure on yours
the other side im using the engine bolt, the way it mounts you end up with the engine bolt hanging out one side like 1 inch too long as I believe the stock brace used that same position thats why the bolt was too long
so thats enough room for the heim joint to share the bolt along with a spacer to keep it inline

you could do that too, just buy a longer engine bolt that way you dont have to modify the stretch
I got a place you can get bolts from probably around $5 for a longer grade 8



if your not concerned about having it adjustable you could just weld on a piece of metal too, on the stretch and frame
but you have to make sure all the angles are set perfectly

those heim joints I use are expensive and one side is right hand threads, other side is left hand
so you can adjust the rod by hand one twist makes it grow, twist the other way shrinks it


but once its set you never have to adjust
so you could get away with both sides right hand thread as thats cheaper just adjust out off the bike, then put in

and you can use the heim joints and just weld the correct nuts into a tube then you dont have to tap anything
mine are solid aluminum with threads tapped into them and knurled grip so makes it a little harder to do unless you have a lathe


the heim joint is nice to use as it can take away any weird little angles you have on the stretch, the tubing and where it mounts
so you can have a smooth transition for a nice look

[khoachino]

Ordered two adjusters but will have to wait for the shocks to relocate upper mount for it then figure out where to mount it, but there are alot of options where to mount them. Ordered longer rear brake cable, extended all electrical and fuel hose, started right up.

[supermattyp]

i love that look. Would be neat to see this for the Forza group as well.

[khoachino]

I see how you mounted on the stretch itself, but how do you mount on your frame?

what the adjuster rods?
there happened to be a tab on the frame on both sides not used and covered by a body panel
so you just enlarge the hole and run a bolt through it

but in your case you could pick a point on your frame, drill a hole to run a long bolt through
or if you happen to have a flat area, or a tab use that

On one side of the stretch there is a welded threaded bung the rod connects to thats what you see in my photo
of course you could just use a long bolt through my stretch, because the way its made not sure on yours
the other side im using the engine bolt, the way it mounts you end up with the engine bolt hanging out one side like 1 inch too long as I believe the stock brace used that same position thats why the bolt was too long
so thats enough room for the heim joint to share the bolt along with a spacer to keep it inline

you could do that too, just buy a longer engine bolt that way you dont have to modify the stretch
I got a place you can get bolts from probably around $5 for a longer grade 8



if your not concerned about having it adjustable you could just weld on a piece of metal too, on the stretch and frame
but you have to make sure all the angles are set perfectly

those heim joints I use are expensive and one side is right hand threads, other side is left hand
so you can adjust the rod by hand one twist makes it grow, twist the other way shrinks it


but once its set you never have to adjust
so you could get away with both sides right hand thread as thats cheaper just adjust out off the bike, then put in

and you can use the heim joints and just weld the correct nuts into a tube then you dont have to tap anything
mine are solid aluminum with threads tapped into them and knurled grip so makes it a little harder to do unless you have a lathe


the heim joint is nice to use as it can take away any weird little angles you have on the stretch, the tubing and where it mounts
so you can have a smooth transition for a nice look

[khoachino]

Still waiting for the parts from thailand but i figured the new shock length is the same as the oem so i made the shock extensions according to the oem ones. The extension for the shocks are 5.5 in. So that would give me a 2 in drop. Got some spare time so worked on the projector retrofit.

[khoachino]

Also added supports like what magic mike had suggested by utilizing adjusting rods from 240sx toe adjusters

[magic_mike]

thats cool you found rods to fit already made