The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Unfortunately I could not find the 125 parts catalog so far.
However while checked the old (-2014) and new (2014-) parts catalog, I found that Honda has installed a slightly longer final drive in the new model.
They have changed the counter gear from 54 (23422-K36-J00 GEAR, COUNTER(54T)) to a 53 cogged version (23422-KWN-900 GEAR, COUNTER(53T)).
The rest seems to be absolutely identical.
Edit:
The 2012 PCX 150 trans setup for reference (source http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/H ... parts.html):
23411-KZR-601 SHAFT, DRIVE(17T)
6 23421-KZR-600 COUNTERSHAFT(13T)
7 23422-K36-J00 GEAR, COUNTER(54T)
8 23430-KZR-600 GEAR COMP., FINAL(44T)

Now I start looking for an SH parts catalog, as it seems to have even taller gearing - however that could be caused also by the larger wheel diameter also.
I'll be back. :-)

Edit:
I've found the 2011 PCX 125 parts list in the meantime.
Trans setup is the next:
SHAFT, DRIVE (17T) 23411-KWN-900
COUNTERSHAFT (13T) 23421-KWN-900
GEAR, COUNTER (53T) 23422-KWN-900
GEAR, FINAL (47T) 23430-KWN-900

Oyabun wrote:I've checked the PCX 150 parts catalog, and found "23430-KZR-600 GEAR COMP., FINAL(44T)". can you pssibly confirm this?
How much tooth the original PCX 125 version has/ or alternatively how much longer the final drive will be after the change?
If I1m not mistaken you've alrady installed other final drive mods also - what is your current setup you run with?

I got my final gear from yumi with their part number, I'll check if it's same as Honda. The final gear gives me 6% gear up over 125 and I've also got kitaco sprocket so combined I get about 10% total increase in gearing, feels just perfect.

The head you have on the pictures is a stock 150 head, or the Yumi special high flow, high CR one?

Oyabun wrote:The head you have on the pictures is a stock 150 head, or the Yumi special high flow, high CR one?

It's a 150 supplied by them but with double progressive springs installed.

Oyabun wrote: However while checked the old (-2014) and new (2014-) parts catalog, I found that Honda has installed a slightly longer final drive in the new model.
They have changed the counter gear from 54 (23422-K36-J00 GEAR, COUNTER(54T)) to a 53 cogged version (23422-KWN-900 GEAR, COUNTER(53T)).

The above is about PCX150. And I have apparently mixed them - the older version has the longer gearing with 53 tooth and the newer is shorter with 54.

I have calculated the longest gear ratio combo can be achieved with the 17(factory PCX input shaft) /51 (Kitaco High Gear Kit) +15 (Yuminashi forged gear set) /44T (factory PCX 150 final gear) combo. This in theory would give 22% longer final gear than the factory 17/53+13/47 set of the PCX125 2012.

Got the rest of my kit today 31mm throttle body and manifold but in the first star idle speed sets in 2200 rpm and doesnt seems to go down any thoughts?

Have you tried adjusting idle control knob? Have to unscrew the sensor off and play with it...screw it clock or anti clock wise..it's been a long time since I had to play with it so can't remember exactly.
What model Pcx have you got?

Pcxdemon wrote:Have you tried adjusting idle control knob? Have to unscrew the sensor off and play with it...screw it clock or anti clock wise..it's been a long time since I had to play with it so can't remember exactly.
What model Pcx have you got?

Got the old school v1 2010 tomorow ill pull out the IACV and clean it a bit and try... Getting the throttle cable in the right spot was a nightmare did you have the same problem?

sergiopatron wrote:

Pcxdemon wrote:Have you tried adjusting idle control knob? Have to unscrew the sensor off and play with it...screw it clock or anti clock wise..it's been a long time since I had to play with it so can't remember exactly.
What model Pcx have you got?

Got the old school v1 2010 tomorow ill pull out the IACV and clean it a bit and try... Getting the throttle cable in the right spot was a nightmare did you have the same problem?

Yea, I had initially bit of drama with the position of the cable which reminded me of my woes.. because the seat would clash and exert pressure on top of the cable it would rev higher at idle because of it. Have you tried your idle before the seat was put back in? You have to turn the cable downwards towards wiring loom as much as it will go and then tighten it so it doesn't come back up and hit bottom of the seat once seat is in place. Alternatively have a look at BTs posts of his tb with modded bracket that places the cable in it original intended postition.

The cable is fine with some slack but when i close the throttle the rpm lower slower than normal yuminashi told me to unscrew a bit the idle screw of the throttle butterfly... Fingers crossed... Report soon lol

Pcxdemon wrote:

sergiopatron wrote:

Pcxdemon wrote:Have you tried adjusting idle control knob? Have to unscrew the sensor off and play with it...screw it clock or anti clock wise..it's been a long time since I had to play with it so can't remember exactly.
What model Pcx have you got?

Got the old school v1 2010 tomorow ill pull out the IACV and clean it a bit and try... Getting the throttle cable in the right spot was a nightmare did you have the same problem?

Yea, I had initially bit of drama with the position of the cable which reminded me of my woes.. because the seat would clash and exert pressure on top of the cable it would rev higher at idle because of it. Have you tried your idle before the seat was put back in? You have to turn the cable downwards towards wiring loom as much as it will go and then tighten it so it doesn't come back up and hit bottom of the seat once seat is in place. Alternatively have a look at BTs posts of his tb with modded bracket that places the cable in it original intended postition.

It was needed to install that bracket there since the TB is originally not in a position for a scooter. My mechanic had to do that mod. Saves a lot of time trying to get the cable right. Highly suggest to do the same because it would be much harder trying to put the original throttle cable on a bracket that was not meant for it.

Yumi was right turned back the idle screw on the butterfly now its 1700 rpm... The 31mm makes a lot a diference!!! Holy s*** need a longer final gear it revs up like a madman now

sergiopatron wrote:Yumi was right turned back the idle screw on the butterfly now its 1700 rpm... The 31mm makes a lot a diference!!! Holy s*** need a longer final gear it revs up like a madman now

Good for you man.
Did you install the camshaft too? About the gears, I talked to Reggy and he said he loved the V1 gears so try it for a time before spending another chunk of money on a gear set.
Glad to hear you're having the same result as mine. The 31mm TB makes a hell of a difference

Got the 44t final gear incoming Hate the rpm limiter 108 km on stock vario got my jcosta brocken The yumi cam gets great torque on lower revs hope the belt can handle it

Sergio, how's your CVT belt handling the power of your current set up?

Still in good shape got the athena belt... Very strong stuff

Cant reply a pm from waspmike.... Ill show you what happend to the jcosta The copper central ring wore off and the slided off the variator im expeting a replacement ring from jcosta

http://s27.postimg.org/wu3qfo5kz/IMG_20 ... 091849.jpg

Hey do you happen to know how to tag a member of the forum in your post?
Oyabun if you read this please help.
I'm running fine with my scooter, suddenly, after I leave it for long period of time, it will stall on start. After that, the engine will feel weaker compared to the entire rev range, with my ear it should be about 5000rpm that this happens, and this happens all the time even after 10km of riding.
I don't have an IACV, just leave it there to adjust idle RPM. Is this a Vario problem? I don't think so. Perhaps this is an AFR problem, but how can I, without a wideband O2 sensor know for sure if it's too lean or too rich?

BPT7594 wrote:Hey do you happen to know how to tag a member of the forum in your post?
Oyabun if you read this please help.
I'm running fine with my scooter, suddenly, after I leave it for long period of time, it will stall on start. After that, the engine will feel weaker compared to the entire rev range, with my ear it should be about 5000rpm that this happens, and this happens all the time even after 10km of riding.
I don't have an IACV, just leave it there to adjust idle RPM. Is this a Vario problem? I don't think so. Perhaps this is an AFR problem, but how can I, without a wideband O2 sensor know for sure if it's too lean or too rich?

I have to say it is a bit difficult for me to interpret what are the exact symptoms and conditions how they occur as per your description - but it might be clear indication of my limitations of understanding.
It would be helpful if you could exactly explain what happens, under wich conditions and if the symptoms are cleared and again under which circumstances.
Old times when the currently available lambda sensors have not been around we've had to "read the plugs". Practically one can identify certain patterns on the spark plug which indicate the actual state of operation. I suggest to run a Google search for reading spark plugs and you'll find a ton of good resources on the topic.

Thank you Data!