How-To: Change Final Drive Oil

[maddiedog]

Since you're not interested in improved engine & transmission protection, I'd suggest not reading my posts regarding that topic in the future.

Good info, I actually have no idea about anything involving viscosity retention in oils. You did send me down a rabbit hole that got me reading about oil for a half hour though.

I think it's safe to say that the PCX's use case is very light, and the gears are fairly cheap. Additionally, the gears aren't under strain like in heavy machinery.

If you're concerned at all about the oil degrading, feel free to do it more often, but I'm with 2yous and Sendler here. To keep it simple for people not interested in pushing the limits of durability, stick to the maintenance schedule, use the right weight, and just change it more often if you're worried.

[donderstorm]

Hi
Is there any need for a moly additive.
Regards
Kurt

[homie]

It's a recommended anti-corrosion additive for the aluminum cases as much as the steel I believe. Has a noticeable effect on aluminum parts over oils without moly from what I see. Moly comes added to the oil and chemicals you buy from Honda's OEM PRO product line. Keep all your fluids working with your machine as Honda sees fit and you can't go wrong but this is a loaded topic with many, many opinions so I'm out

Final drive uses 10W-40 motor oil I believe but check that weight to your SM

Kurt, please put your location in your profile as Amazon and other recommendations in this forum may mean nothing to you

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039 ... UTF8&psc=1

[donderstorm]

Updated Homie

Unfortunately, I tried contacting my local honda dealer and they told me they have to order EP90 (transmission oil) if I'm interested. I then purchased Castrol magnatec 10w 50, as this is probably one of the better oils in South Africa. Non of the oils here actually mention a moly addictive


I also want to thank the author of this forum. Really helped me get my hands dirty and Pcx running

[you you]

It's a recommended anti-corrosion additive for the aluminum cases as much as the steel I believe. Has a noticeable effect on aluminum parts over oils without moly from what I see. Moly comes added to the oil and chemicals you buy from Honda's OEM PRO product line. Keep all your fluids working with your machine as Honda sees fit and you can't go wrong but this is a loaded topic with many, many opinions so I'm out

Final drive uses 10W-40 motor oil I believe but check that weight to your SM

Kurt, please put your location in your profile as Amazon and other recommendations in this forum may mean nothing to you

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039 ... UTF8&psc=1

Bob the oil guy! Come on!

[homie]

this is a loaded topic with many, many opinions so I'm out

Bob the oil guy! Come on!

[Brent]

Excellent post Maddiedog! Look for beer money coming your way!

[maddiedog]

I also want to thank the author of this forum. Really helped me get my hands dirty and Pcx running

Glad to help mate!

[maddiedog]

Excellent post Maddiedog! Look for beer money coming your way!

Woo! That's good beer money too. Much appreciated.

[easyrider]

Great post, but keep in mind that mixing gear lube with a motor oil is not a good idea.Stay with the recommended oils and do not use gear oil in this final drive assembly.There are chemistry issues and compatibility issues with the metals used and the seals used in this assembly. OK you have a friend and there was no problems but over time deleterious consequences can be expected.I had a friend of mine once used a gear oil in his outboard engine gear case that was not specified by the manufacturer.. What the hell is was gear oil and that was a gear case ..right ?? . After several months a bushing in the gear case wore out, failed, and the seals failed and it ended up costing him a new gear case ..a very expensive mistake. The service center diagnosis was the wrong gear lube was used. The chemistry did not agree with certain metals in the case. Suit yourselves , but beware there can be serious dangers in mixing and using oils not specified . Check with HONDA on any deviations from their service requirements.

[Jge64]

Not concerned in the least about oil "eating my innards"......I'll continue to do use this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O ... UTF8&psc=1

[Marko]

Just changed the transmission oil in my 2015 PCX150. Just over two years and 16000Km (10000 miles). The oil I drained looked silver, as though it had lots of metallic particles in it. Is this normal?
I am going to run it for a few days, then change again, to flush out with new oil. I don't think I'll wait two years before changing it again.

[you you]

Just changed the transmission oil in my 2015 PCX150. Just over two years and 16000Km (10000 miles). The oil I drained looked silver, as though it had lots of metallic particles in it. Is this normal?
I am going to run it for a few days, then change again, to flush out with new oil. I don't think I'll wait two years before changing it again.

I changed mine when I serviced it first and there were a lot of metal particles. 1k later and there were non.

So I'd recommend changing as soon as possible. Falls on deaf ears here as it deteriorates into a oil grade/type diminishing argument. The sky might appear to fall at some point too.

[alx123]

ill use this

[PCX150Rider]

I'm going to change mine at 1000 miles using the Pro Honda HP4M 10w-30 with Moly. It will be the first time.

I already changed the engine oil at about 600 miles.

I figure at the rate I'm going that will be around September. After that I'll change it every other year as prescribed in the SM.

[alx123]

now im worried, havent change mine since i bought the scoot..11000 kms now

[Marko]

Just changed the transmission oil in my 2015 PCX150. Just over two years and 16000Km (10000 miles). The oil I drained looked silver, as though it had lots of metallic particles in it. Is this normal?
I am going to run it for a few days, then change again, to flush out with new oil. I don't think I'll wait two years before changing it again.

I changed mine when I serviced it first and there were a lot of metal particles. 1k later and there were non.

So I'd recommend changing as soon as possible. Falls on deaf ears here as it deteriorates into a oil grade/type diminishing argument. The sky might appear to fall at some point too.

I'm not an obsessive oil changer, like some on this forum, but I'll certainly not wait two years again.
For the record, it was the first time the transmission oil had been changed.
I use Galp (Portuguese national oil company) 10-40 fully synthetic car oil.(can't get the correct Honda oil as the nearest Honda dealer is 130Km from here, and we don't have Amazon or eBay in Portugal.) I change the engine oil at the Honda recommend service intervals of 8000Km (5000 miles)

[you you]

Just changed the transmission oil in my 2015 PCX150. Just over two years and 16000Km (10000 miles). The oil I drained looked silver, as though it had lots of metallic particles in it. Is this normal?
I am going to run it for a few days, then change again, to flush out with new oil. I don't think I'll wait two years before changing it again.

I changed mine when I serviced it first and there were a lot of metal particles. 1k later and there were non.

So I'd recommend changing as soon as possible. Falls on deaf ears here as it deteriorates into a oil grade/type diminishing argument. The sky might appear to fall at some point too.

I'm not an obsessive oil changer, like some on this forum, but I'll certainly not wait two years again.
For the record, it was the first time the transmission oil had been changed.
I use Galp (Portuguese national oil company) 10-40 fully synthetic car oil.(can't get the correct Honda oil as the nearest Honda dealer is 130Km from here, and we don't have Amazon or eBay in Portugal.) I change the engine oil at the Honda recommend service intervals of 8000Km (5000 miles)

You definitely have eBay in Portugal is I've sold items to over there.

And Amazon missing a trick?

[alx123]

For those who insist on using gear oil here's the chart which shows motor oil viscosity equivalent in gear oil

Motor oil =SAE crankcase, Gear oil = SAE gear

[homie]

Here's a little something to remind you to put SOMETHING, ANYTHING back in after a drain