How-To: Valve Adjustment for Honda PCX

[ScottDR]

In preparation for a long trip, I decided to check my valves among other things.
At 13480 km, I found my valve lash to be spot on. That is about 9000 km since my last check.
Needless to say I am happy.

Well I just rolled over 20,000km and my bikes performance is amazing. No concerns about a valve check. Perhaps at 25,000k just for fun.

As many experienced riders in here have stated, the above sure seems to be pretty much the case! I just purchased my 2013 PCX 150 and it has 1900km on it. I just adjusted the valves (thanks to the OP!) for it's first time. Prior owner had changed oil twice (once per year) but that was it. So after 2 years and 1900km, the exhaust was spot-on, the intake was .13 (.03MM too wide). So I tightened the intake to .10MM as per spec.

Two questions for you MikeP:

1. What brand and weight oil have you been using in your scooter?
2. How often do you change it?

Thanks in advance!

Scott

[MikeP]

In preparation for a long trip, I decided to check my valves among other things.
At 13480 km, I found my valve lash to be spot on. That is about 9000 km since my last check.
Needless to say I am happy.

Well I just rolled over 20,000km and my bikes performance is amazing. No concerns about a valve check. Perhaps at 25,000k just for fun.

As many experienced riders in here have stated, the above sure seems to be pretty much the case! I just purchased my 2013 PCX 150 and it has 1900km on it. I just adjusted the valves (thanks to the OP!) for it's first time. Prior owner had changed oil twice (once per year) but that was it. So after 2 years and 1900km, the exhaust was spot-on, the intake was .13 (.03MM too wide). So I tightened the intake to .10MM as per spec.

Two questions for you MikeP:

1. What brand and weight oil have you been using in your scooter?
2. How often do you change it?

Thanks in advance!

Scott

Now you have done it! Oil is a slippery topic with lots of opinions.
Seriously though, I can only speak to my experience and habits.

I have always used the manual recommended oil. Pro Honda HP4M 10w30
Since I do all my own maintenance, cost is not a factor for me, I change it every 3,000km. Also I always clean the filter screen, however have yet to find anything in it.
Up to 25,500km and so far, bike still runs like new. Still have not checked the valves.............

[ScottDR]

Now you have done it! Oil is a slippery topic with lots of opinions.
Seriously though, I can only speak to my experience and habits.

I have always used the manual recommended oil. Pro Honda HP4M 10w30
Since I do all my own maintenance, cost is not a factor for me, I change it every 3,000km. Also I always clean the filter screen, however have yet to find anything in it.
Up to 25,500km and so far, bike still runs like new. Still have not checked the valves.............

I know there are tons of opinions, I just wanted to hear what you use (because nobody can argue with your wear results, at least in the valve train!).

Cheers!

Scott

[pxc-in-japan]

Followed this for the 2015 PCX (Chassis KF18-100++++) Japan model.
Thought I had copy and pasted the procedure incorrectly, as when I got to removing the center console, I saw that it is different to the one featured here.
My fuel cap cover opens on an arm forward of the fuel filler cap, not to the rear as is shown here.
There is only one screw visible from any angle that is behind the fuel cap cover and just in front of the seat.
Now trying to follow this Youtube video as he does it without removing the center console, but it appears that he, too, has the North America model. I am stuck trying to get the seat bucket out before removing the side panels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ierh8gBeuLg

OK, back to it... frustrated and without a scoot for work if I don't get it done by Sunday evening (now Saturday lunch)...
I will update this post with pictures that I am taking as I go.
Don't want to call a dealer, but might have to get the bike safe enough to ride and then leave it with a dealer..
Here goes...

[Oyabun]

Followed this for the 2015 PCX (Chassis KF18-100++++) Japan model.
Thought I had copy and pasted the procedure incorrectly, as when I got to removing the center console, I saw that it is different to the one featured here.
My fuel cap cover opens on an arm forward of the fuel filler cap, not to the rear as is shown here.
There is only one screw visible from any angle that is behind the fuel cap cover and just in front of the seat.
Now trying to follow this Youtube video as he does it without removing the center console, but it appears that he, too, has the North America model. I am stuck trying to get the seat bucket out before removing the side panels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ierh8gBeuLg

OK, back to it... frustrated and without a scoot for work if I don't get it done by Sunday evening (now Saturday lunch)...
I will update this post with pictures that I am taking as I go.
Don't want to call a dealer, but might have to get the bike safe enough to ride and then leave it with a dealer..
Here goes...

The LED models have a completely reworked body panel structure compared to earlier models pictured in this original thread. I have removed all the fairings of my LED model as I'm changing colors on mine and Homie's video (the one you have linked here) is correct. After looking at the parts catalogue I do not see a difference in fairing between US, european and asian models - the PCX is a global product of Honda.

[pxc-in-japan]

2015 / 150cc
Bought in Jan '16 at 4,400 kilometres / 2,750 miles.
First known check at 9,200 kilometres / 5,750 miles.
Used the specs from this post, so I hope the 2015 model is the same.

Quoted specs.
In: 0.1mm plus / minus 0.02mm
Ex: 0.24mm plus / minus 0.02mm

Inlet was very tight on 0.11mm and would not take 0.12mm.
That is almost exactly ideal and is within spec.

Exhaust was Extremely tight on 0.25mm and would not take 0.26mm.
That, too, is within spec.

Broke only one plastic retainer re-assembling the bike (grab-bar cover left side orange trim retainer).
Took photos.
Made Facebook album.
Will post link.

[you you]

2015 / 150cc
Bought in Jan '16 at 4,400 kilometres / 2,750 miles.
First known check at 9,200 kilometres / 5,750 miles.
Used the specs from this post, so I hope the 2015 model is the same.

Quoted specs.
In: 0.1mm plus / minus 0.02mm
Ex: 0.24mm plus / minus 0.02mm

Inlet was very tight on 0.11mm and would not take 0.12mm.
That is almost exactly ideal and is within spec.

Exhaust was Extremely tight on 0.25mm and would not take 0.26mm.
That, too, is within spec.

Broke only one plastic retainer re-assembling the bike (grab-bar cover left side orange trim retainer).
Took photos.
Made Facebook album.
Will post link.

Feelers should be a sliding fit not very or extremely tight so it sound like both inlet and exhaust were right on spec.

[pxc-in-japan]

The link below goes to my attempt at a 2015 PCX version of this 'How-to' thread.
The album is set to 'public'.
I don't know what that means beyond it being publicly viewable by anyone even without a Facebook account.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 2e4fcba7cb

[pxc-in-japan]

Followed this for the 2015 PCX (Chassis KF18-100++++) Japan model.
Thought I had copy and pasted the procedure incorrectly, as when I got to removing the center console, I saw that it is different to the one featured here.
My fuel cap cover opens on an arm forward of the fuel filler cap, not to the rear as is shown here.
There is only one screw visible from any angle that is behind the fuel cap cover and just in front of the seat.
Now trying to follow this Youtube video as he does it without removing the center console, but it appears that he, too, has the North America model. I am stuck trying to get the seat bucket out before removing the side panels.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ierh8gBeuLg

OK, back to it... frustrated and without a scoot for work if I don't get it done by Sunday evening (now Saturday lunch)...
I will update this post with pictures that I am taking as I go.
Don't want to call a dealer, but might have to get the bike safe enough to ride and then leave it with a dealer..
Here goes...

The LED models have a completely reworked body panel structure compared to earlier models pictured in this original thread. I have removed all the fairings of my LED model as I'm changing colors on mine and Homie's video (the one you have linked here) is correct. After looking at the parts catalogue I do not see a difference in fairing between US, european and asian models - the PCX is a global product of Honda.

thanks
did it in the end with patience, time and help from the two mentioned sources

made facebook account: Honda Scooter
posted the annotated photos there

using that account, made group:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/570307253139254/
group name: 2015 Honda PCX owners and D.I.Y. mechanics.

and will now use Honda Scooter solely to manage that group (which also has the photo album)
trying now to get other FB users to join the group and contribute, then i can post the links here
will add future albums to that group and post links here

thanks

[JustPassinThru]

Luther, was the dealer you took it to an authorized Honda dealer?

The main important thing the first service is the oil change. The PCX will operate with the valves out of whack, and the operable range of the valves is huge.

I think the important thing for someone unfamiliar with maintenance is to find a reputable Honda-authorized shop that's familiar with your vehicle to make sure they don't screw something up while servicing. My PCX was the first one the local shop had serviced, and they broke my lower-left fairing while taking it off. They replaced the fairing for free as they should have, but needless to say, I went to another dealer that moved more PCXes for my warranty work from then on out.

All this has me a bit concerned.

I've had the used PCX125 I got now, 18 months and 3000 miles. Oil changes as needed, of course...two, and another one coming up. Screen cleaning, betcha.

But, valves. I'm not a stranger to a toolbox; but the one time I tried to do valves...on a 1973 Pinto, 36 years ago...it was a five-day nightmare and I never did get them right. I opted for too-loose rather than too tight...seemed to be no in-between; but I swore, never again.

All my cars since, have had hydraulic tappets. And all my bikes, got the valves serviced professionally, or overlooked. That's harder to do with a machine that's basicially near-new, but with a tiny engine - and one with surprising pep.

I have a Honda dealer in town I don't trust. Give you an example why: I rescued a shaft-drive Honda GL500 out of a barn...tarped over and well preserved. The owner, still alive but in his eighties...was consciencious but no mechanic. He had never greased the shaft housing.

I asked this Honda dealer to grease the fitting, while I was buying some other small parts. Sure. I get it back, and aside from some grease smudged on the fitting, the dirt on there was undisturbed.

I had an independent shop take a grease gun to it; and he pumped a whole cartridge of grease in the housing. NEVER WAS greased, EVER. That was the lubrication for shaft splines.

So...they failed the light, easy test. I don't wanna buy a "wall job" - I pay for a valve adjustment and they park it by the far wall for a day.

I don't want the independent shop to bust the panels off.

Now, can the PCX be ridden with the engine and body panels removed? It would have to be moved about four miles. I figure if I strip it mostly down, then if the mechanic has the books, he can maybe get in there and actually adjust the valves. Hopefully without tearing open that mini-radiator.

[JustPassinThru]

So if its running right and sounding right - leave it be?

That's what I stick to with my PCX and all my other vehicles, and haven't had a problem yet.

If the tappets become noisy then the valve clearance is probably increasing due to general wear, but if there is no change in the sound the clearance could possibly be decreasing. Less likely but the valve seats could be sinking etc. and you'd probably notice a drop in performance. Not very likely at all really.

I've never heard of valve clearance decreasing, usually when clearances are too tight, they were just improperly adjusted initially. If you think about it, those valves won't tighten themselves.

Someone else told me, as regards a Suzuki vee engine...clearances can tighten when parts on other sections of the valve-train wear. Rocker arms, for example.

Long time ago, I was told - when into my elbows on that Pinto engine - that a LITTLE too loose, while not good, was better than tight.

I'm at 4500 miles and change, and the engine sings like a bird. Phenomenal performance for the size. Maybe, truly, the thing is to just leave it be for the moment.

I bought it with 1550 miles on it. I can't go back and find out actual service done, but the owner, an older man, was careful about many other things. It would surprise me if he hadn't taken it in for periodic service.

[springer1]

Someone else told me, as regards a Suzuki vee engine...clearances can tighten when parts on other sections of the valve-train wear. Rocker arms, for example.

Long time ago, I was told - when into my elbows on that Pinto engine - that a LITTLE too loose, while not good, was better than tight.

I have absolutely found both tight and loose valve gaps in the many engines I've adjusted. I agree that a LITTLE loose is better than tight - but gaped per spec is better. The problem with a loose gap is that the rocker/ valve impact can deform or cause a 'ding' in the rocker surface - which then provides a false gap reading on subsequent measurements - which then accelerates issues.

[JustPassinThru]

Makes sense. Mechanics is part science, part art. The science part I have down, fine; but the art element...I've never found my muse for the delicate stuff.

[Ganglylamb]

So I did a valve clearance check 1.5 week ago. I don't think it had been done before by the fact that torqued screws still had the paint markings (yellow) nicely aligned. I bought it second hand at 2000km now it reads around 8000km so guess it was time to check the clearances.

First of all thanks for this how-to. Also thanks to Homie for his youtube video on how to remove the panels which is most of the work - some panels were different though, guess different model/year.

Good news for those who would be interested, the folks at Honda were clever and made the lock nut of a softer material than the valve adjustment screw. Guess how I found out?

Yeah , probably overtorqued it when fixing the lock nut after adjustment, some of the thread of the lock nut was winded around the adjustment screw. Initial thought when it happened - panic! Took a step back (more than one) and relaxed with a cold beer (also more than one).

So I ordered a new valve nut, first at official Honda supplier in Belgium from which I got an email stating it would take around 3 weeks to get it . Next stop,partzilla and got it delivered after 9 working days.

Oh and yes valves were too loose when I checked them (especially out valve) so now they are back as stated in service manual.

So all in all, still a happy PCX rider even though I messed up a bit - lesson learned!

[you you]

And yes the valve adjustment is every 2500 miles for both the 125 and 150, but you will probably be fine doing it every 4000 miles after your initial adjustment

Kind of agree. My bike has never had a valve adjustment and it's running perfectly. It'll never have one whilst it is running perfectly.

The clue is in the "running perfectly".

Not the mileage.

[fish]

Wonder how many PCX owners familiarized themselves with
the servicing of same, before making the purchase.
Fish

[MikeP]

Well I figured an update was needed. Last time I checked the valves I was at 13480km.

I decided it was time to check them before winter as I was doing an oil change and repairing my driving lights.
I was pleased they were spot on as my milage is now 43450km.

I learned something too. Do not put the Honda gasket sealant on the whole gasket, just the corners as per the manual. I must have done this last time and the valve cover came off, but the gasket was nicely glued in place.
Oh well, left it alone and put the valve cover back on.

[you you]

Out of interest, were they out at the first check?

[MikeP]

Out of interest, were they out at the first check?

I had the valves checked by the dealer at about 1000km, after I first bought the bike in 2014. Waist of money....

I did my own valve check at about 4500km and they were way to tight. Forget what the numbers were, but there was such a noticible "tick" upon re assembly I pulled her apart again to re check my work. They were spot on.....
Since then I have not had to adjust them.

[springer1]

I learned something too. Do not put the Honda gasket sealant on the whole gasket, just the corners as per the manual. I must have done this last time and the valve cover came off, but the gasket was nicely glued in place.

Thanks for your posts & findings. I've also found it best to use as little sealant as necessary. I've read in other forums instances where sealant (especially silicone) used in excess has formed "worms" which then circulated and interfered with oil flow.

Basically, the same excess lumps cleaned off the outside of the joint after assembly is also present on the inside. The finding was to only use what's needed to provide a seal where a normal gasket doesn't. This may not be as critical with manifold or manual transmissions faces where the internals do not have critical oil or coolant flow issues. But it's definitely best to use caution when applying sealants to a valve cover, head gasket, drain plug, oil filter, thermostat and etc.