Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
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Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
I damaged a couple of the fins on my new NCY drive face when trying to torque the nut down and hold the variator with the holding tool. It looks like I took a chunk out of one of the fins, and gouged up a couple others. What does this piece actually do? Will this damage be an issue? Or am I fine to keep using it? If it is a problem, can i put the stock one in place in conjunction with all of the other ncy stuff until a new drive face arrives?
On a side note I only managed to get the nut torqued to about 30lbs, going to have to find another way to do this. It drives but sounds louder and feels different. It also makes a rattling noise now so something isn't right. Not sure if any of this is related to either the nut torque or fin damage or is another issue altogether. Anyone have any advice?
On a side note I only managed to get the nut torqued to about 30lbs, going to have to find another way to do this. It drives but sounds louder and feels different. It also makes a rattling noise now so something isn't right. Not sure if any of this is related to either the nut torque or fin damage or is another issue altogether. Anyone have any advice?
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
The fin damage is minimal ,however unlikely it may cause an imbalanced rotational force.
Hope nothing is bent or out of round with the broken fins.Check for smooth rotation and look for any abnormalties.
Hope nothing is bent or out of round with the broken fins.Check for smooth rotation and look for any abnormalties.
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
@romnation
Based on my limited knowledge, the fins are there to act as a fan and ventilate the variator for cooling purpose. Probably not of a big deal.
@rattling noise
Did you make sure to put all rollers in their correct position. I did a mistake of just putting them all randomly at first, then I experienced that rattling noise as well.
When I re install them correctly, the rattling was gone.
nonte: I wouldn't suggest running the scoot with the variator nut under torqued
Based on my limited knowledge, the fins are there to act as a fan and ventilate the variator for cooling purpose. Probably not of a big deal.
@rattling noise
Did you make sure to put all rollers in their correct position. I did a mistake of just putting them all randomly at first, then I experienced that rattling noise as well.
When I re install them correctly, the rattling was gone.
nonte: I wouldn't suggest running the scoot with the variator nut under torqued
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
The fin damage isn’t an issue but the undertorquing could be if the nut comes loose.
You need to concentrate on this.
You need to concentrate on this.
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
If you spin that at 8000 rpm it will be out of balance without doubt. Even if it does not look like a lot of mass is missing, centrifugal forces are in play- i would replace the part.
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
When I reinstalled an OEM drive face on my bike quite a while back I broke some fins. I was told to go to the opposite side and try to break those fins about the same as was on the other side. That way they won't be out of balance. However, in your case I think that I would put the OEM part on and order a replacement NCY drive face. To tighten the nut, don'the try to use the normal tool. There are no holes to put it in. Try a large rubber strap wrench. It should hold, though it may be a little tricky to attach at first.
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NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
Mel46 wrote: I broke some fins. I was told to go to the opposite side and try to break those fins about the same as was on the other side.



to the original poster;
Go get another face and use a large oil filter removal tool (the rubber band type) The band will take abuse but you'll achieve the 44 foot pounds without breaking anything. To be honest I took this short cut once with a socket wedged between a fin and one of the CVT bolts. Confident one fin could take the pressure I was successful one day but chipped a fin another... lesson learned.
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
I'm not sure what's going on here. Now I can't remove the new NCY drive face at all. I got the nut off but the drive face won't budge now. It's like it's welded itself to the scooter. I don't know if I installed something wrong/backwards or what. I'm pulling on it with all of my strength and will not come off.
https://imgur.com/a/3M93bbH
https://imgur.com/a/3M93bbH
Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
Is he missing a washer?romnation wrote:I'm not sure what's going on here. Now I can't remove the new NCY drive face at all. I got the nut off but the drive face won't budge now. It's like it's welded itself to the scooter. I don't know if I installed something wrong/backwards or what. I'm pulling on it with all of my strength and will not come off.
https://imgur.com/a/3M93bbH
Looks like the pulley face was forced/jammed against the shaft ridges from his twist with the holder - instead of the nut tightening first? Was there play on the shaft with this non-stock part?
Might need a gentle pull from a puller.
Fish
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
It looks like I did forget the washer. Doh. I examined everything and all rollers look to be inserted properly. I'm still having problems getting the nut torqued past 30ft lbs even with the rubber strap wrench. Is there some sort of low powered impact wrench or something I could use on this without damaging anything?fish wrote:Is he missing a washer?romnation wrote:I'm not sure what's going on here. Now I can't remove the new NCY drive face at all. I got the nut off but the drive face won't budge now. It's like it's welded itself to the scooter. I don't know if I installed something wrong/backwards or what. I'm pulling on it with all of my strength and will not come off.
https://imgur.com/a/3M93bbH
Looks like the pulley face was forced/jammed against the shaft ridges from his twist with the holder - instead of the nut tightening first? Was there play on the shaft with this non-stock part?
Might need a gentle pull from a puller.
Fish
I'm also still getting the rattle which I'm unsure of if this is related to the nut torque or not. Here is a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0o5P73X ... e=youtu.be
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
Where is the sound coming from?
If you said the rollers are postioned correctly so that the side of the rollers where there is polymer coating is the one hitting the variator wall when it's spinning..then it might be torque related problem I don't understand why you cannot torque it past 30 ft lbs, I'm using a cheap torque wrench that can torque up to 150 ft lbs..are you saying you can't get past 30 and it's already tight?
If you said the rollers are postioned correctly so that the side of the rollers where there is polymer coating is the one hitting the variator wall when it's spinning..then it might be torque related problem I don't understand why you cannot torque it past 30 ft lbs, I'm using a cheap torque wrench that can torque up to 150 ft lbs..are you saying you can't get past 30 and it's already tight?
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
So I guess the washer was the entire issue all along. After putting the washer on I was able to easily torque it to 44ft lbs, without the use of the strap wrench. (Just used the holder tool again and was careful, didnt break any more fins) No more rattle either.
So everything is installed and seems to be working properly, but I'm not 100% convinced yet. While acceleration does seem a little better from 15-30mph, I don't think the scoot is much faster. It's also louder now, but kind of just sounds like a loud lawnmower now lol. Also now I can reach 65mph instead of 63mph, but I thought I was supposed to be able to hit 70+ after this mod? I'm using the 13g rollers btw. (Everything is all NCY) I also DO NOT have an aftermarket windshield. 2015 pcx150. Does this sound right or is something still amiss?
So everything is installed and seems to be working properly, but I'm not 100% convinced yet. While acceleration does seem a little better from 15-30mph, I don't think the scoot is much faster. It's also louder now, but kind of just sounds like a loud lawnmower now lol. Also now I can reach 65mph instead of 63mph, but I thought I was supposed to be able to hit 70+ after this mod? I'm using the 13g rollers btw. (Everything is all NCY) I also DO NOT have an aftermarket windshield. 2015 pcx150. Does this sound right or is something still amiss?
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
aftermarket variators are always best customized to each rider.. took me 3 changes of weights to get the right feel for me..
is the rpm climbing too fast than the power band? or is it too slow to climb that the engine vibrates..
or better yet use an rpm meter to know accurately..
is the rpm climbing too fast than the power band? or is it too slow to climb that the engine vibrates..
or better yet use an rpm meter to know accurately..
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
Time for 2 questions.
1) How many miles are on the belt?
The higher the miles on the belt, the lower your top end.
2) Do you have ANY windshield on, aside from the OEM one?
Without a windshield to divert some of that wind, it is still hitting you square in the chest, which will act like a wall to the wind.
1) How many miles are on the belt?
The higher the miles on the belt, the lower your top end.
2) Do you have ANY windshield on, aside from the OEM one?
Without a windshield to divert some of that wind, it is still hitting you square in the chest, which will act like a wall to the wind.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
About 4500 miles on the belt. I actually just ordered a new one after doing some reading, along with a new drive face. No windshield aside from the stock "meter cover". Most of my riding is city at speeds around 30mph, so I haven't thrown down the cash for an aftermarket one yet. (Although it would be nice for long trips) I also prefer the no-windshield look. As a side note, hopefully I didn't do any unseen damage to the shaft with my lack of mechanical ability while trying to force this together without the washer. Everything looks okay though.Mel46 wrote:Time for 2 questions.
1) How many miles are on the belt?
The higher the miles on the belt, the lower your top end.
2) Do you have ANY windshield on, aside from the OEM one?
Without a windshield to divert some of that wind, it is still hitting you square in the chest, which will act like a wall to the wind.
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
I think that once you change the belt you will see and feel an improvement in performance.
Also, even with just the medium Givi windshield on the bike you will feel the wind being diverted better. Here is the site I get my windshields from, and it happens to have ones that will fit your bike as well. The D1136st is the shorter one. Select it on the site and it will show you a picture of what it will look like on a PCX.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/giv ... -2014-2018
Also, even with just the medium Givi windshield on the bike you will feel the wind being diverted better. Here is the site I get my windshields from, and it happens to have ones that will fit your bike as well. The D1136st is the shorter one. Select it on the site and it will show you a picture of what it will look like on a PCX.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/giv ... -2014-2018
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
Typically a nut would be the softer steel over any shaft it would thread on. Minimal damage should be found on the first thread inside the nut that was forced on the spline. Flip it around if it has trouble threading and forget about it, no harm done. You want a cogged belt if you can get one.romnation wrote: As a side note, hopefully I didn't do any unseen damage to the shaft with my lack of mechanical ability while trying to force this together without the washer. Everything looks okay though.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7857&p=107674&hilit ... lt#p107674
Don't be like Chief and forget to torque the nut then it comes off during the test drive



We've had some fun over the years in here, you're not the first to make a mistake. Only youyou is perfect

- alx123
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
Heck, the first time I opened the variator last week, I put the washer back between the drive face and the boss. Took me 30 mins and a broken gasket to realize why I can't close the cover back.



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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
Well...I am perfect too. I looked at the picture before reassembling it.
...(and then I did it wrong. :-\ yep, I meant to do that...err, maybe.)
...(and then I did it wrong. :-\ yep, I meant to do that...err, maybe.)
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
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Re: Damaged new drive face when torquing. Is this an issue?
Pfft. I wish. Almost every time I do something I mess up in some way.homie wrote:Typically a nut would be the softer steel over any shaft it would thread on. Minimal damage should be found on the first thread inside the nut that was forced on the spline. Flip it around if it has trouble threading and forget about it, no harm done. You want a cogged belt if you can get one.romnation wrote: As a side note, hopefully I didn't do any unseen damage to the shaft with my lack of mechanical ability while trying to force this together without the washer. Everything looks okay though.
viewtopic.php?f=9&t=7857&p=107674&hilit ... lt#p107674
Don't be like Chief and forget to torque the nut then it comes off during the test drive![]()
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We've had some fun over the years in here, you're not the first to make a mistake. Only youyou is perfect