The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

sendler2112 wrote:

SECoda wrote:I guess at least we can get the old one off. I am sure Scooterman has the answer for this.

Can you take some photos of the old parts next to the new ones so we can try to see the differences? It's odd that the NCY drive face doesn't have the removal holes.

Factory pics are probably better than what I could take myself..... The NCY parts I received look exactly like these. No removal holes.

http://www.corsportusa.com/2010-honda-p ... rive-face/
http://www.corsportusa.com/2010-honda-p ... on-pulley/[/quote]

Valiant wrote:He just said you needed to get a feel for tightening it in order to avoid stripping the threads. Based on how it works, I would assume you only use it once or twice after it stops turning in order to tighten it.

Pcxdemon wrote:Yea,just tap 1sec the trigger couple of times and itll be fine. Dont try to exert force on the pulley fins,theyll snap off...

Thanks guys. Drats, if I can't exert force on the pulley fins, looks as if I'll need to buy an impact wrench to get the NCY drive face on. In that case, I could have used it to get the old stock face off, and didn't need to buy the variator holder tool. Oh well.

typhon2222 wrote:Factory pics are probably better than what I could take myself

I'm curious to see a good comparison to find out what the difference is. Especially the drive face which another brief comparison seemed to show that it had no difference from stock to look at them. I wonder if it milled down a little more at the inner boss.
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You can still try to use the holding tool carefully to see if you can get the nut tight without breaking any fins. If it feels like there is no part of the NCY face that is sturdy enough to hang on to, stop.

sendler2112 wrote:

typhon2222 wrote:Factory pics are probably better than what I could take myself

I'm curious to see a good comparison to find out what the difference is. Especially the drive face which another brief comparison seemed to show that it had no difference from stock to look at them. I wonder if it milled down a little more at the inner boss.
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You can still try to use the holding tool carefully to see if you can get the nut tight without breaking any fins. If it feels like there is no part of the NCY face that is sturdy enough to hang on to, stop.

Oh I see. You're thinking that if the NCY and stock drive faces are identical, then I could simply reattach the stock? Not sure if they're absolutely identical... I'll see....

Sendler, how long were your gentle 'taps' with the impact while tightening the nut? Roughly a second each?

Would one of these do it?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-S ... /202277618

DAB wrote:Would one of these do it?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-in-S ... /202277618

Huh, a strap wrench..... interesting....

Do you think it would prop up against the ground as well as a variator holder tool? <ponders>

If you didn't see it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8c1njzv69U

typhon2222 wrote:Oh I see. You're thinking that if the NCY and stock drive faces are identical, then I could simply reattach the stock? Not sure if they're absolutely identical... I'll see....

Well that, and just to figure out if you really need it.

typhon2222 wrote:Sendler, how long were your gentle 'taps' with the impact while tightening the nut? Roughly a second each?

I takes some touch. Every gun is different. A torque stick would make it fool proof.
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http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Heavy-Duty- ... rque+stick
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sendler2112 wrote:I'm curious to see a good comparison to find out what the difference is. Especially the drive face which another brief comparison seemed to show that it had no difference from stock to look at them. I wonder if it milled down a little more at the inner boss.

Sorry Sendler, in the dark light in which I was working, and without a decent camera, I couldn't get any shots detailed enough to show the diff. But you're right: the NCY drive face IS milled down a tad more around the inner boss than the stock is. The stock drive face curves to meet the inner boss smoothly and seamlessly, with no discernible junction; whereas the NCY has a little 'step' at the junction.

sendler2112 wrote:You can still try to use the holding tool carefully to see if you can get the nut tight without breaking any fins. If it feels like there is no part of the NCY face that is sturdy enough to hang on to, stop.

That's what I did. Wedged the prongs of the holding tool between the fins of the NCY drive face, and got it as tight as I could. Let's hope it's tight enough!

The NCY kit that I used came with 12g rollers, so that's what I used.


Couldn't get the stupid red side panel to clip back in though -- there are two tabs which I just can't seem to slot in. Blah. I'll try again tomorrow once daylight returns. I'm almost tempted to just snap those stupid tabs off. With the 7 screws and 5 bolts holding that side panel on, are the tabs really necessary?


I also hooked up this little tachometer ( amazon.com/gp/product/B00AR2R090/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Out of curiosity.... what RPMs should I expect at idle?

These boards don't allow a user to edit his own posts after a few minutes have elapsed? Weird. I just wanted to say that I found the standard idle speed (roughly 1,600 - 1,800) by searching these boards. Amazing, what this forum has.

1,750 rpm at idle. Hopefully 8,000 at full throttle as you pull through 30-50 mph. Now that you have the longer gearing of the clone NCY vario, you may never see redline again at 9,600 rpm which would be 80 mph.

sendler2112 wrote:1,750 rpm at idle. Hopefully 8,000 at full throttle as you pull through 30-50 mph. Now that you have the longer gearing of the clone NCY vario, you may never see redline again at 9,600 rpm which would be 80 mph.

Awesome. Thanks to you and the other gents for all the help.

That's crazy. 9,600 on stock yields only 62 mph, but 9,600 on the NCY equates with 80?! That's a nutty huge difference in gearing.

I'll try it out on the road tomorrow -- as soon as I can get that dratted red side panel reinstalled. The problem seems to be the two slot-in tabs. Got any suggestions for dealing with those buggers?

I'll try the universals to avoid removing that panel. Doesn't look like much fun.

Starting to get things together. I just don't see a need to remove the panel with universals and swivel head socket wrenches. There is quite a bit of room behind the panel before the cover. (unless the 2013 is different from the 2015 )

Nice shot SECoda!

I'm sure you're right. In my case, I decided to take the side panel off because I'd never done any of this before, and wasn't even sure where all the bolts for the drivetrain cover were located.

Finally I did manage to get the side panel back on at the end -- just needed a small screwdriver to lift the tabs so they'd insert into slots.

But next time I'll do it your way.

sendler2112 wrote:1,750 rpm at idle. Hopefully 8,000 at full throttle as you pull through 30-50 mph. Now that you have the longer gearing of the clone NCY vario, you may never see redline again at 9,600 rpm which would be 80 mph.

So, having installed the NCY variator & drive face, with 12g rollers, along with a tachometer, I took the red candy bomb out for a test spin today.

Idle after a few minutes of warming up: 1,725.

RPM at full throttle pulling through 30-50 mph: about 7,800 on average.

Max speed: about 62 mph (and even at that speed, tach only showed about 8,000).

I'm surprised to get those results with the 12g rollers. If I recall, 7,800 is what Homie and some others with the NCY were getting with 13g rollers....

Am also bummed that top speed wasn't a tad higher. I'm a small light guy (5'8", 140 lbs), and am running with a small Givi windscreen (which, if I recall, is about ideal for speed).

@SECoda, I see you've got exactly the same variator/clutch holding tool I used.

To get both the stock off, and the NCY on, I had to use the longer rectangular prongs of the tool, rather than the shorter cylindrical nubbins on its reverse side. (Those nubbins are just a tad too wide to fit into the receiving holes on the stock drive face.)

Just wedging the prongs between the fins worked in both cases. Didn't snap off any fins. (Though I also can't guarantee that I got the NCY bolted on tightly enough by hand.)

My LG G3 takes great pictures. SO that is your 2011 Red 125 getting only 62 mph? We will see what my 2013 150 does with the mid Givi.

I may use my impact wrench to remove it since they are loctited. Not sure on the install yet. If you used loctite it should be fine. I may use my torque wrenches to see if I can get it to spec w/o anything special.

typhon2222 wrote:@SECoda, I see you've got exactly the same variator/clutch holding tool I used.

To get both the stock off, and the NCY on, I had to use the longer rectangular prongs of the tool, rather than the shorter cylindrical nubbins on its reverse side. (Those nubbins are just a tad too wide to fit into the receiving holes on the stock drive face.)

Just wedging the prongs between the fins worked in both cases. Didn't snap off any fins. (Though I also can't guarantee that I got the NCY bolted on tightly enough by hand.)