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NCY drive face + variator + 13 gr rollers + aftermarket clutch bell...
It *feels* faster than this to me. Pretty sure it's GPS lab most of the time (this is my best time. I have gotten up to 6.9 second, with most being around 6.4... but then again, it also depends on the time. wonder if a different phone would help. hmm...)
I thought it had a checkered grip, but it's actually just grooves that loop the entire inside diameter. I guess it's better than stock, but I would much rather prefer a sandpaper or checkered texture. The OG 2013 PCX of mine has this one, which I was unable to find in stock (or even anything remotely similar for under $100!) --> https://www.ebay.com/itm/KAO-GY6-125-15 ... 3337103123
Seems to be the best texture, IMHO... yet now unobtainable. :-/
I think that ground slope and wind speed / direction probly account for almost as much variance as most of these aftermarket parts are creating. Should get my 2013 back within a week and will see if I'm able to detect any differences. If anything, I'd expect the 2013 to be a tad slower at accelerating, considering it's geared just a tad higher.
vamootsman wrote:I have no idea. Maybe the app malfunctioned. Guess I'll have to go do it a few more times. I did it after about 5 minutes of riding so I know the belt wasn't very hot. Felt like the front wheel was going to come off the ground. Could be a fluke, or luck, or just perfect timing. Don't know for sure, but it felt really awesome.
When I had my stock clutch bell, I would slingshot out of every stoplight. The stock clutch pads are quite aggressive and will engage at a higher RPM, when they don't chatter that is. Now that I have changed the clutch bell to one with a textured surface, my scooter won't slingshot from a stop anymore. It's a more delayed smooth clutch engagement. Great for leisurely riding, not so much for "drag" racing. I might need a more aggressive clutch pads.
I couldn't remember the App that we were using on this thread, so I used a different one. It feels like the aluch performance has improved a bit. The best one was 5.7 s to 40mph, but it didn't save. I think I might be getting lausi GPS signal, that's the only thing that can explain the dips in the graph. I'll go out tomorrow and find a nice flat road to do some repeated runs with the original app.
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I'm not too far from you guys. I'm gonna try stiffer clutch springs. At launch my scoots RPM drops considerably when the clutch engages. I think I could gain a second.
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Gil wrote:I'm not too far from you guys. I'm gonna try stiffer clutch springs. At launch my scoots RPM drops considerably when the clutch engages. I think I could gain a second.
Let us know which springs you change over too. Curious how much it helps acceleration.
Gil wrote:I couldn't remember the App that we were using on this thread, so I used a different one. It feels like the aluch performance has improved a bit. The best one was 5.7 s to 40mph, but it didn't save. I think I might be getting lausi GPS signal, that's the only thing that can explain the dips in the graph. I'll go out tomorrow and find a nice flat road to do some repeated runs with the original app.
I am not even going to attempt this, but my 2013 with NCY variator, drive face, and weights gives me a max speed of 75 mph, though I have 13 gm weights which will not be the fastest takeoff weights. I think those would be 11 gm.
My objective was more top end, not how fast I could get there.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150 Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Mel46 wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 10:14 am
My objective was more top end, not how fast I could get there.
If you tune the CVT correctly, you can obtain great acceleration, and retain top end speed.
The goal is to go as light as possible with the weights but heavy enough to get full Variator travel. Allowing the belt to fully travel, instead of it jumping all the way up on the variator and causing heavy wear on specific parts of the Variator and Driveface.
If you run too heavy of weights, its like jumping to Overdrive and keeping the RPMs too low to get into the powerband.
Mel46 wrote: ↑Sun May 23, 2021 10:14 am
My objective was more top end, not how fast I could get there.
If you tune the CVT correctly, you can obtain great acceleration, and retain top end speed.
The goal is to go as light as possible with the weights but heavy enough to get full Variator travel. Allowing the belt to fully travel, instead of it jumping all the way up on the variator and causing heavy wear on specific parts of the Variator and Driveface.
If you run too heavy of weights, its like jumping to Overdrive and keeping the RPMs too low to get into the powerband.
OK OK enough is enough. No one on this forum has a PCX 150 that will consistently run 75mph without a displacement upgrade. Downhill doesn't count. Tailwind,,,great but doesn't count. Alice went down that rabbit hole and Physics filled it in and she's lost. Stop the madness!
2013 PCX 150 with,
Givi Tall Screen, and E370 Top Case
NCY Variator and Face Plate, 12 gram rollers
Takagawa Silent Oval Exhaust, K&N R1100 pod filter mod
YSS XL Rear Shock Absorbers Michelin City Grip 120/70 Front 140/70 Rear
2013 Honda CB500X with Rally Raid kit
2005 Piaggio X9 500 Evolution
1982 Honda CX500 Turbo
1983 Honda Nighthawk S
vamootsman wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 9:55 pm
OK OK enough is enough. No one on this forum has a PCX 150 that will consistently run 75mph without a displacement upgrade. Downhill doesn't count. Tailwind,,,great but doesn't count. Alice went down that rabbit hole and Physics filled it in and she's lost. Stop the madness!
Consistent "cruising" at 75 no. But being able to hit 75 tucking (Stock windshield) is not that difficult. lol