The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Mel46 wrote:Wow! Thanks for the link. I think they rebuilt mine because the part was on backorder, if this is the same area. Like I said, I'm not a mechanic, so I can't tell you more than I did. However, keep in mind that the scooter was in the shop for 7 or 8 weeks because of backordered parts. They finally took matters into their own hands and started calling every Honda dealer in America to get the parts they needed. They went so much above and beyond that we bought the whole group pizzas and tea. I really hope that part fixes your problem, and I really, really hope that part comes off of backorder for you. I noticed that it fits multiple manufacturer's models. I'm also surprised that it even fits a Suzuki Burgman 650.

Thanks and i'm glad yours is now sorted its give me more confidence that the part ive ordered will resolve my noise issue
i have had the problem for around a year but it was a lot quieter to start with and i was told by a mechanic it was nothing to worry about but since then its been getting louder so one day i decided to take everything out of the variator casing and start the bike and spin the back wheel backwards to see if it still made the noise, all was silent no abnormal noises so i'm putting it down to one of the 2 bearings in the clutch area, either number 18 or 19 in the diagram attached. A mechanic confirmed he had just fixed this issue on another pcx and quoted me £60 if i take just the clutch wheel assembly in or £150 if i take the bike in, i am going to change the part myself but because i dont have the tool needed to take the bearing out i have ordered the complete unit from the US(number 8 in the diagram) its costing me £25 for the part(a massive £105+p&p if i order from the UK) and £20 delivery.
I am no mechanic but am confident in working in the variator housing its very easy take apart with basic tools and a impact wrench or clutch/variator holding tool. i have been checking and greasing the bearings periodically for the last few months and up to now the bearings have not crumbled on me!
Seems a bit funny that they are out of stock of the part everywhere and on back order with honda, after many of hour online searching it seems a lot of pcx owners seem to experience this issue(seems more common with 2012/13 models) i wonder why that is because they are the exact same part number in all pcx models. maybe they used different grease or did not use enough during this production year i dont know but it seems weird that so many owners from this year are experiencing this issue.
I'll post an update as soon i receive and install the part

Here is a question that I am guessing any bike mechanic can answer, but I'm not one so have to ask. What's a driven clutch?? That was the main problem they wrote up on the paperwork we have so far, but I have no idea what it is or what it does.

Here is the latest news on this feasco The dealer that went through all of that time, effort, and headache in getting g my bike fixed sent I. The warranty claim to a company called Interstate National Dealer Services, which was who the extended warranty was through . Yes, we thought we were buying the extended warranty through Honda, and that is where Mountain Motorsports represented it as from. Well, back to the problem. They rejected the claim saying that this was "Normal Wear" AND there was an exclusion for all clutch repairs in the contract. Surprise! We didn't get a second sheet of paper that would have ANY exclusions on it . Hmmmm..what else will we discover if we dig deeper into the sales contracts from these people??!!! So I looked at the sales contract for the bike itself. Guess what...the sales contract shows the list price that we paid for the PCX was $4124, even though though the price tag on the bike on the floor was $3449...Well the lesson here is don't trust that the dealer will do you right. We were in a hurry to get her scooter and Mountain Motorsports took advantage of us. However, I can say that they have changed finance managers now and the new one has tried to make as much of it right as he can, within the limits of the contracts. He even had the store cut us a check for servicing that we had been required to pay for even though the servicing was suppose to have been prepaid based on the contract. Well, find a good, honest dealer and stick with them.

I least it's all only CVT parts and nothing worse. My Honda service guy was shocked it took so long when I told him the story.

Hi all
Just pulled the variator and clutch off for an inspection as it was making a "rattle" noise on the over-run at between 10 & 20 mph. The bearings 18 & 19 in the diagram looked good but no.19 had hardly any grease in it at all, couldn't tell if it was like it from new or the grease worked out. Stuck plenty of grease in it, as well as in bearing no.18, and shall keep an eye on it.
The "rattle" noise could be that a few of the variator rollers had flat spots, which didn't seem very good after 5657 miles. Anyone got experience of roller wear as it's my first CVT scoot!

It took so long to fix our bike because the parts were on backorder and had been for awhile. Our mechanics decided to see if they could rebuild it since they couldn't get the assembly. They called all over the United States to get the individual parts. If they had waited, I doubt that we would be riding around yet.

buddy1976 wrote:

Mel46 wrote:Wow! Thanks for the link. I think they rebuilt mine because the part was on backorder, if this is the same area. Like I said, I'm not a mechanic, so I can't tell you more than I did. However, keep in mind that the scooter was in the shop for 7 or 8 weeks because of backordered parts. They finally took matters into their own hands and started calling every Honda dealer in America to get the parts they needed. They went so much above and beyond that we bought the whole group pizzas and tea. I really hope that part fixes your problem, and I really, really hope that part comes off of backorder for you. I noticed that it fits multiple manufacturer's models. I'm also surprised that it even fits a Suzuki Burgman 650.

Thanks and i'm glad yours is now sorted its give me more confidence that the part ive ordered will resolve my noise issue
i have had the problem for around a year but it was a lot quieter to start with and i was told by a mechanic it was nothing to worry about but since then its been getting louder so one day i decided to take everything out of the variator casing and start the bike and spin the back wheel backwards to see if it still made the noise, all was silent no abnormal noises so i'm putting it down to one of the 2 bearings in the clutch area, either number 18 or 19 in the diagram attached. A mechanic confirmed he had just fixed this issue on another pcx and quoted me £60 if i take just the clutch wheel assembly in or £150 if i take the bike in, i am going to change the part myself but because i dont have the tool needed to take the bearing out i have ordered the complete unit from the US(number 8 in the diagram) its costing me £25 for the part(a massive £105+p&p if i order from the UK) and £20 delivery.
I am no mechanic but am confident in working in the variator housing its very easy take apart with basic tools and a impact wrench or clutch/variator holding tool. i have been checking and greasing the bearings periodically for the last few months and up to now the bearings have not crumbled on me!
Seems a bit funny that they are out of stock of the part everywhere and on back order with honda, after many of hour online searching it seems a lot of pcx owners seem to experience this issue(seems more common with 2012/13 models) i wonder why that is because they are the exact same part number in all pcx models. maybe they used different grease or did not use enough during this production year i dont know but it seems weird that so many owners from this year are experiencing this issue.
I'll post an update as soon i receive and install the part

Part arrived at last after nearly 4 months, i have installed it and all is quiet from the variator housing now!

Here are some pics

Lingwood wrote:The "rattle" noise could be that a few of the variator rollers had flat spots, which didn't seem very good after 5657 miles. Anyone got experience of roller wear as it's my first CVT scoot!

It's easy to look at the rollers. If they are worn then it is time to install lighter DrPulley sliders which will improve mid speed acceleration and add some slightly longer gearing.
.
.
http://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f ... 0&start=80
.
.
.
.

I am so glad that our bike is back and in good running order. The mechanics at Cycle Nation of Canton, Georgia are the best! After the warranty claim was denied they gave us more than a fair bill on the cost of repairs. They are always courteous and efficient, and they are good at their job! What more could you ask of your mechanic? We have to go 20 miles out of our way to get to them, and there are closer shops, but these guys have always been fair to us. That is why I traded my bigger Burgman with them. They found a good home for it, for a fair price. They gave me what I wanted for it, and they made sure my new PCX was clean and mechanically sound before they handed me the keys. I highly recommend them to anyone wanting either a new or good used bike.

Ok, so if I understand correctly, the failed part is the part of the clutch assy, not a part inside the engine case, or the bearing that the clutch shaft rides on? In other words, not pulling the motor to repair, just removing the clutch assy and either repairing or replacing with a working unit?

Well, I don't know where my response went that I wrote while out at a coffee shop, but here goes again. It looks like the problem on our bike had to do with the driven clutch assembly. At the time that it had problems, that assembly was on back order everywhere. After the bike sat in the shop for quite some time with no foreseeable time that the assembly would come off of back order, the mechanics decided to try to rebuild the broken assembly. After completely rebuilding it, even though they had to locate parts from all over the United States, we finally got our bike back. That assembly was still on back order when we got our bike back. Buddy1976 got his assembly after it finally came off of back order. I know that there was also some kind of problem with some springs, but I have no idea about that. Hopefully you guys know about those. Otherwise, I think the assembly was the problem...or rather the various bearings in it.

Mel46 wrote:Well, I don't know where my response went that I wrote while out at a coffee shop, but here goes again. It looks like the problem on our bike had to do with the driven clutch assembly. At the time that it had problems, that assembly was on back order everywhere. After the bike sat in the shop for quite some time with no foreseeable time that the assembly would come off of back order, the mechanics decided to try to rebuild the broken assembly. After completely rebuilding it, even though they had to locate parts from all over the United States, we finally got our bike back. That assembly was still on back order when we got our bike back. Buddy1976 got his assembly after it finally came off of back order. I know that there was also some kind of problem with some springs, but I have no idea about that. Hopefully you guys know about those. Otherwise, I think the assembly was the problem...or rather the various bearings in it.

Shoot, if you'd known up front that was the problem, I would have sold you my performance NCY clutch assy for $100. =) Would have gotten you back on the road right away...except that your bike would have accelerated much faster. =P

Showed and old timer working on an AJS single my new bike- and his first comment on my new PCX
was That Honda never over builds
sounds like they might of scrimped on their clutch bearings

What does the NCY clutch assembly do for the bike?? I have been thinking about the NCY variator and drive face. We just want the bikes to max out a little better than its 67 mph, somewhere in the mid 70s so we can climb hills at a higher speed and keep up with traffic for the short amount of time we do get on the freeway.

So correct me if I'm wrong...

The lesson from this whole bearing thing is that having an extended warranty means exactly zero. Seems to me that you might as well take that money and put it on red or black at your local casino...you'd have a better chance of seeing a return on investment.

In my case, yes, you are exactly correct. IF they had told me before i signed it that there were 3 pages of exclusions on top of the fact that this was NOT a Honda extended warranty, i would have laughed in their faces. So, unless you get a good extended warranty from Honda itself, walk away.

Mel46 wrote:In my case, yes, you are exactly correct. IF they had told me before i signed it that there were 3 pages of exclusions on top of the fact that this was NOT a Honda extended warranty, i would have laughed in their faces. So, unless you get a good extended warranty from Honda itself, walk away.

I never buy extended warranties on anything and over the course of a lifetime saved thousands of dollars for sure. Today I'm unable to remember ever really feeling I should have. Yes, when a salesman pushes extended warranties, smile and walk away.

Furthermore lease your autos and put the miles on your scoot so you don't go over. You're always going to want a new vehicle every 3-4 years anyway. Less payment, all service and maintenance is covered and if you lease a decent luxury vehicle they will be begging for it back because the resale is so high. Volvo is a great place to unload all your extended warranty drama BS and just lease.

I want a new vehicle every three years but just can't afford it and all of my other toys. I go through the lease vs buy analysis every time I buy a new car and the spread has actually increased in the last decade (salvage values of used cars has skyrocketed). When I bought my Ford Escape Titanium 2013 the difference over ten years was 58% more cost to lease (assuming new Titanium every three years) when you take salvage value into account. Hence, purchasing pays for my scooters and other toys.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/buying-se ... lease1.htm

I generally agree on extended warranties with some limited exceptions. I paid $350 for an extended warranty on a 60" HDTV and the optical engine later went out that cost $1650 (many of the newer TVs don't have the 10-12 year life of TVs from a decade ago). I buy my autos loaded with all of the fancy electronics and they tend to fail early and be very expensive. This latest car has every offered option. Auto warranties direct from the manufacturers can be purchased via third parties and considerably less expensive (60-65%) than what the dealer offers for identical coverage.

We have had multiple lease cars in our car-buying time. In most cases i would agree that leasing a car is a good thing. However, when it came time for us to decide on our "final car" , because we are old and on fixed incomes now.....but this was 5 years or more before my retirement....we looked at a vehicle that had low to no maintenance costs, and high dependability. We bought the 'Limited Edition' with almost everything on it...minus a nav system, which gets expensive to maintain and update after the maps become outdated. We ended up buying Hyundai vehicles. For leasing i would suggest a Lexus or the Hyundai Genesis. Buying either would be very expensive unless you bought a lease return, which we have done with Volvos in the past. We have owned several Volvos and loved them...when they were not in the shop. So, in conclusion, lease high end vehicles, but buy dependable, less expensive vehicles so that the maintenance costs won't get you.

Mel46 wrote:What does the NCY clutch assembly do for the bike?? I have been thinking about the NCY variator and drive face. We just want the bikes to max out a little better than its 67 mph, somewhere in the mid 70s so we can climb hills at a higher speed and keep up with traffic for the short amount of time we do get on the freeway.

Stiffer clutch springs and contra springs. Makes it take off a lot quicker and downshift a lot quicker when going from part to full throttle. Think a higher stall speed tq converter in a performance car. Feels like someone turned on "sport mode."

-Great for heavier guys or those riding frequently with a passenger, hill starts, performance junkies.

The bad: 20-25% decreased fuel economy from higher avg RPM's, accelerated belt wear (due to clutch pinching the belt harder) which if not changed more often will result in lower top speeds.

I prob should experiment with it more, as when I was using it, I was using it with some 13G rollers. I took it off and put the stock clutch in at the same time I put the OEM 18G rollers back into the NCY variator/drive face. Maybe I could lessen the impact on the MPG that way? Although, I don't really feel I need any more performance down low. The higher RPM adds a bit of volume to the intake/exhaust and just makes the ride a bit less serene.

Again, for now, it's off the bike. Maybe if I went "sport riding" in the canyons, I'd throw it on again...would be good for that!