The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

maddiedog wrote:Since it was mentioned in a BUNCH of threads using 10w30 versus 10w40 for the final drive, I feel like this needs a better explanation...

10w30 --- this is an oil weight. In layman's terms, the 10 refers to cold thickness and the 30 refers to hot thickness. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. A w30 oil is thinner than a w40 oil when it gets hot. "Hot" can be defined as engine operational temperature, and "Cold" can be defined as turned off and left off overnight temperature. The specifications are exact, but you're not a mechanical engineer, so that should suffice.

Your drivetrain never gets to "hot" temperature because there is no combustion in the final drive. That means functionally 10w30 is more or less the same as 10w40 in the drivetrain. You are fine using either. Honda calls for 10w30.

Personally, I'd use either in a pinch and never think twice about it. Since I have 10w30 anyways, and even if I didn't, since a quart of 10w30 synthetic is REALLY cheap, I'd just run what Honda calls for.

maddiedog wrote:Mel -- I never change crush washers, and have never had a problem. They'll get worn and crack eventually, that's typically when I replace them.

you you wrote:Can I just say most oils mostly weigh the same despite the viscosity Or will this start the hares running again

you you wrote:Totally agree. Thank fork someone will shut them up

Jge64 wrote:how simple...did it this morning in 5 min......I used 10w 40 syn as that's what I syringe.a great syringe here you can use for topping off crank oil too....it allows you to get the crank level perfect.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7 ... ge_o06_s00

you you wrote:Syringes and tubes are really useful for bikes and scooters for replacing fluids. A decent sized syringe and a shot length of tubing would make oil changes a breeze

you you wrote:

Jge64 wrote:how simple...did it this morning in 5 min......I used 10w 40 syn as that's what I syringe.a great syringe here you can use for topping off crank oil too....it allows you to get the crank level perfect.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000G7 ... ge_o06_s00

Syringes and tubes are really useful for bikes and scooters for replacing fluids. A decent sized syringe and a shot length of tubing would make oilchanges a breeze

homie wrote:

you you wrote:Syringes and tubes are really useful for bikes and scooters for replacing fluids. A decent sized syringe and a shot length of tubing would make oil changes a breeze

youyou avatar... you have no pants like me now! That's not a wing tip

I agree there probably nothing to see in the wire basket anyway... its not like its a filter.

maddiedog wrote:Since it was mentioned in a BUNCH of threads using 10w30 versus 10w40 for the final drive, I feel like this needs a better explanation...

10w30 --- this is an oil weight. In layman's terms, the 10 refers to cold thickness and the 30 refers to hot thickness. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. A w30 oil is thinner than a w40 oil when it gets hot. "Hot" can be defined as engine operational temperature, and "Cold" can be defined as turned off and left off overnight temperature. The specifications are exact, but you're not a mechanical engineer, so that should suffice.

Your drivetrain never gets to "hot" temperature because there is no combustion in the final drive. That means functionally 10w30 is more or less the same as 10w40 in the drivetrain. You are fine using either. Honda calls for 10w30.

Personally, I'd use either in a pinch and never think twice about it. Since I have 10w30 anyways, and even if I didn't, since a quart of 10w30 synthetic is REALLY cheap, I'd just run what Honda calls for.

Eiron wrote:

maddiedog wrote:Since it was mentioned in a BUNCH of threads using 10w30 versus 10w40 for the final drive, I feel like this needs a better explanation...

10w30 --- this is an oil weight. In layman's terms, the 10 refers to cold thickness and the 30 refers to hot thickness. The higher the number, the thicker the oil. A w30 oil is thinner than a w40 oil when it gets hot. "Hot" can be defined as engine operational temperature, and "Cold" can be defined as turned off and left off overnight temperature. The specifications are exact, but you're not a mechanical engineer, so that should suffice.

Your drivetrain never gets to "hot" temperature because there is no combustion in the final drive. That means functionally 10w30 is more or less the same as 10w40 in the drivetrain. You are fine using either. Honda calls for 10w30.

Personally, I'd use either in a pinch and never think twice about it. Since I have 10w30 anyways, and even if I didn't, since a quart of 10w30 synthetic is REALLY cheap, I'd just run what Honda calls for.

maddiedog probably already knows this, but the other characteristics to consider are viscosity retention & additive packages. Gears do an excellent job of shredding oil viscosity, & they do that under the extreme pressure action of gear teeth leveraging against one another. Gear oil contains extreme pressure anti-wear additives, but many motor oils do not. And SAE specs kinda tell you which oils have improved additive packages, but don't clearly tell you which ones have better viscosity retention. Euro oil specs do tell you this info, but many oil manufacturers don't list these specs ('cuz it costs more to run additional tests).

If you can find an oil you like with Euro ACEA oil specs, then look for those with A3/B3/B4 listings. These oils will have both better viscosity retention and better anti-wear additive packages. And these are the oils I'd recommend in both the transmission and the crankcase.

you you wrote:There two teaspoons of oil in the final drive. And two bolts. An inny and an outty. It's about as nursery school mechanics as it gets. Have a go and change it if you want but please don't get all superhero about it..