The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Mel46 wrote:I am sure others have asked this before but i want to make sure so that i can mark the websites that have the NCY stuff...will the ncy drive face and variator for the 125 fit the 150?

Yes, they'll fit.

Look ma no panel (removed). Ok one bolt under the rear foot rest. I just used a swivel socket wrench - no universal even needed. Someone did recommend the wrong pulley removal tool off of Amazon on here and w/o edit we are stuck with it. Nubs are too big.

Out with the old and in with the new. I am really struggling to change the perfectly good belt according to my caliper unless it is stretched but you sure can't tell any. It is still virtually new dimensions. I may try the old and go back in if I am unhappy since it is so easy. Still strange - the pulleys and everything should be dry as a bone except for the nut threads and seating surface which they want a tiny bit of engine oil on.

I forgot to mention I am torquing it to spec (44 ft lb) I believe. It was definitely that tight on the removal. Now to figure out how to hold it w/o breaking a fin.

Got it torqued to spec and ready to test. This completes the first dis-assembly for the NCY upgrade.

The trouble is it is 25 F outside. It does sound like there is a bit of a break-in to the new parts.

So you got the drive face, variator, and the rollers from the same place? Also, did you end up purchasing a clutch holding tool, or did you find a different way to hold it?

NCY Variator and face plate for $85 from http://www.corsportusa.com/ ($56 and $29)

13g NCY rollers from Amazon.com for $19 (about $5 cheaper than corsportusa free shipping) You can buy all three at corsportusa.

They also sell NCY kits on EBay for less but they didn't have the right weight rollers I wanted.

I also bought the $50 tach for testing but that is definitely optional.

I purchased a clutch holding tool from amazon.com that someone recommended on this forum but the nubs are too big for the holes on the stock Honda face plate. You can still use it if you are careful by putting the nubs against the fins. I was able to use it to tighten the NCY one to the 44 ft lb spec with it too w/o breaking a fin. There should be the right one out there somewhere. Since the NCY plate has no holes we are stuck improvising a bit. I would not want that nut loosening up at 75 mph.

http://www.amazon.com/NCY-Weights-varia ... gm+rollers
Is this where you got the rollers? Are these the correct ones?

Yes but that shows $5 shipping. I would just order everything from corsportusa then.

SECoda wrote:Got it torqued to spec and ready to test. This completes the first dis-assembly for the NCY upgrade.

The trouble is it is 25 F outside. It does sound like there is a bit of a break-in to the new parts.

Be a good sport and get out on the road in a full race tuck down a slight grade and bounce the limiter at 77-78mph and then come back here and tell us about it as you thaw out!

I just went to the mailbox with my new Nordic Gordini Gortex gloves made for high wind and single digits and my hands were the only things warm. I definitely need the full Columbia insulated suit for a ride and the 3 pairs of woolies...

It seems like it took some miles to get it working up to speed so I may just ride it around today and try a top speed check later.

I just put 5-6 miles on it in the subdivision but never got over 30 mph. It runs great so far. The speed runs will be another day.

SECoda wrote:I just put 5-6 miles on it in the subdivision but never got over 30 mph. It runs great so far. The speed runs will be another day.

What is a subdivision? Is it an intersection?

A subdivision is at the very center of the universe.

you you wrote:

SECoda wrote:I just put 5-6 miles on it in the subdivision but never got over 30 mph. It runs great so far. The speed runs will be another day.

What is a subdivision? Is it an intersection?

for those who do not live in the United States, a subdivision is a housing project in which there are as few as 10 or as many as 200 individual homes. When a builder buys a piece of land to be used to build multiple single family homes on, and he paves the streets and sets up power and sewage to each lot, that is called a subdivision. One of the subdivisions in my area has so many houses in it, most situated around a large golf course, that it has been considered one of the largest subdivisions in the southern United States.
I hope this clears up that question. Now back to the subject at hand. Did you replace the belt with a reinforced one, or did you just put a new standard belt on?

And there is always Google. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subdivision_%28land%29

I just have a stock OEM new belt but am trying the old one first time. Scooterman saw a small jump in speed with the new belt but his belt had more wear than mine does. I just want to change one variable at a time as much as I can to see what is what. I would hate to have to toss belts every 1000 miles. Seriously, pulling the cover off and making changes is a piece of cake with the right tools. Swapping back stock or trying a new third party belt is real easy. There should be little concern with trying this upgrade except for the money and even that is low. This is low risk but loads of fun.

BTW - except for a little belt dust on the bottom - the CVT case inside was very clean. I wiped that bit of belt dust out but I must be riding in a very clean environment and being very gentle on the CVT.

Would this be a nice upgrade for the 125?

I think they discussed it on a 125 somewhere. I think I remember reading the top speed change wasn't as significant.

It looks like Sunday will be the next warm day to do a little testing. In the meantime, I am switching over to synthetic oil (waiting for the Lucas oil to arrive) at the 2500 mile mark.

Shez running on Lucas synthetic JASO MB w/ Moly now.

The strainer cover came right off with a 6 point socket (first time). From the troubles in the various discussions I was pleasantly surprised.