The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

That light harness is a great idea, but realistically $30 is a lot of money for it. I could just tap into the headlight harness and take care of that problem, but I don't know where the harness has easy access, and connecting directly to the battery has a secondary advantage. If something happens while riding at night you can still use the light until the battery runs down, so that you can be seen on the side of the road.

It's nice to have aux lighting on a separate circuit than the headlight so that in case the headlight fuse blows, you don't end up suddenly in the dark. I was very surprised to find out that my 2013 PCX uses the same fuse for all high beams and low beams. Dangerous.

Mel46 wrote:That light harness is a great idea, but realistically $30 is a lot of money for it. I could just tap into the headlight harness and take care of that problem, but I don't know where the harness has easy access, and connecting directly to the battery has a secondary advantage. If something happens while riding at night you can still use the light until the battery runs down, so that you can be seen on the side of the road.

We are all diff, Price never comes in the play when I'm doing a mod to get something to work like I want it to…

Price is always a factor for me, but I wired them separately for the exact reason Sendler indicated.

Mel, you'll have to show me the cutoff you made for yours, that sounds useful. I haven't run down my battery yet, but have found kids playing on my bike before, and they flipped the lights on. If I hadn't come out when I did, the battery may have gotten drained and I would have been stranded.

Please disregard maddie's owner reply......no one in their right mind needs that many screwdrivers, or hangs their wrenches according to their birthdates.
Listen only to guys with all of their tools tossed into old oily duct taped Nike box!
This guy probably has a case of blue surgical gloves.......geez.
Fish
Loud pipes probably just piss people off, if they do hear them , and threaten your engine settings without adding nought to the perfomance but noise.

fish wrote: This guy probably has a case of blue surgical gloves.......geez.

What's wrong with my drawer of gloves?














...turn and cough, please

Every modern professional mechanic in the USA uses nitrile gloves all day long. Industry standard.

sendler2112 wrote:Every modern professional mechanic in the USA uses nitrile gloves all day long. Industry standard.

And avail at CVS and walgreens...if you are into serious detailing it, they are a must

sendler2112 wrote:Every modern professional mechanic in the USA uses nitrile gloves all day long. Industry standard.

And the UK

maddiedog wrote:Despite what all the pirates tell you, loud pipes don't save lives. You can typically only hear pipes on the highway or road when the bike is already past you; it doesn't make a difference at speed in projecting noise forwards.

Investing in some better lighting will go a long way. I ride with my highs on, and these ridiculously bright Kawell LEDs on:



Here's them from the side, in the garage:

Sorry to hijack the post but I cant pm the overlord

Hey Maddiedog! couple of questions for you when you have a sec. I have a Schmaltese that love to go everywhere with me, so what is your pal sitting on? Do you have him secured with anything? (even just for the first ride?). Also, what saddle do you have on your bike? Been considering a humpectomy, but don't like the look. Would love to have 2-4 more inches to push back, and get a bit more forward lean toward the bars (I race bicycles so like the position). Thanks for any help and insight you can give, and for having an awesome forum!

sendler2112 wrote:Any flow inertia is tuned by the header pipe which we are not touching. Once you make it to a muffler (on any engine) there is only trade offs of power vs noise. The louder, the more power/ less pumping loss

This was true before it was learned that an exhaust can be tuned to match (or counter-as needed) the propagation waves in the intake. Altering only one system will lower the volumetric efficiency of the engine.
When the intake valve opens it sends one type of wave upstream toward the air cleaner. When that wave expands into the manifold another type of wave is reflected back to the valve, increasing the air density at the port and thus, the efficiency. The key is to time this return wave to match the piston at it's maximum velocity - about 90° crank angle. A similar wave pattern is happening in the exhaust at a greater crank angle.
Honda knows this.

All I want to do is point out that while Sendler's method of expanding the gas flow will indeed work, it is not free. There is a cost to it.

That is why we are not touching the header pipe. And in fact drilling the hole as I have done allows the bike to retain the use of the excellent oversized catalyst and it's exit pipe which takes the exhaust all the way to the back of the can, where it turns and comes forward through baffles to the front of the can. All of this original flow tuning and noise suppression is retained. The only thing that is being bypassed is the last piece of long, skinny, purposely restrictive pipe that takes the exhaust from it's entry at the front of the can to the outlet. See the cutaway photo and you will see the entry of the skinny pipe above the huge cat.
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Yes, but Honda's calculations did not end at the header pipe. Their measurement of the propagation waves would have continued beyond that - how far I do not know of course, but the combination of back pressure, timing, and waves would have included the full system.
The physics here are well beyond my field. But from what I've read over the years; the muffler is included in the math.

Drilling the can as I have done has proven to both improve full throttle acceleration times, weighted hill climb speed, and also produce a slight improvement in cruise fuel economy. And the "price" is free. With some increased sound levels. And you still keep your cat so emissions levels do not get worse as it would with an aftermarket exhaust.

Very well; the proof is in the pudding. Thanks.

I thought I would pass on this adventure I had today. I was going to the store and stopped for a light behind a line of cars that wanted to get in to the turn lanne but were blocked by a single car that was 5 car lengths back from the car in front of him, thus blocking the turn lane. All of the cars wanting to get into the turn lane were honking their horn to try to get the guy's attention. Their horns were pathetic. I rolled up between the cars, got beside the idiot a laid on my air horn. Surprise! He got the message and moved up so others could turn. As they passed me, each driver rolled down his window and thanked me. Air horns rock!!

@ sendler2112

Could you maybe do a sound test of your exhaust mod?
That would be great , cuz I want do the same thing.

Regards,

Mine turned out a little on the loud side. Singles seem to naturally become much louder than twins or I4's when changing the exhaust. many people that change the can on a CBR250R end up putting the stock exhaust back on because they get too loud. A deep bass bop-bop-bop as you are riding through the neighborhood. My mod is not any louder than an aftermarket exhaust though and much cheaper. I would recommend a single 12mm hole whereas I have almost three. Maybe this weekend I can post a video and compare it to my CBR250R which is still stock.

That would be great sendler2112 ?

Can you compare it to a aftermarket exhaust or does it sound completely different ? ( for example Malossi, etc.)
imho the stock exhaust only sounds good if you drive into a underground garage

Should I place one hole in the middle , where you drilled 3 of them?
Btw how deep should i drill? ( about 5-10mm)

Cheers !

You would just drill through the can right where I did.