The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

If you put vent holes in the case wouldn't you then have to worry about water intrusion?

That's a good point Mel, & one that I wondered about as well. I'm guessing that's why Yuminashi only added ventilation to the trailing ("right hand") side. I might have some time next weekend to pull the cover off & evaluate ventilation placement. It probably wouldn't take much to initiate more airflow, but I won't know until I can get back in there.

I'm sure someone once posted an air scoop mod forcing more air through the existing inlet, i'm sure a mod like that would help. i have used a malossi multivar in my 2013 pcx for 3 years and have used a stock belt, malossi kevlar belt and am currently using a daytona belt. I have had to throw the malossi kevlar belt as after inspection it had a big chunk missing from with less than 2k miles on. I'm not sure which company makes the belts for malossi or if they make them in house but i dont feel they are up to malossi's usual high standards. i also have had problems with a malossi "special" belt on my old honda dylan, it just went at 75mph. most of the dylan belt just turned to dust!
The variator housing certainly can get hot with a performance variator and no doubt this extra heat will effect certain belt materials more than others. no issues with the daytona tho and its clocked up 12k miles.

PCXdemon made an air scoop for the radiator out of an helmet visor, but I've not seen one for the CVT.

If anyone figures this out please post pictures so that the rest of us can get the idea of the best way to vent the area without fear of water intrusion. I could possibly see a solution if the case cover were modified at the back, but then I would wonder if vibration would cause the case to crack eventually since that would now be a weak point on it. Still, if you look at the back of the outer case, toward the top, there is an area that is clear of obstructions and would not be in the way of a passenger either, so it might be a suitable place to experiment....just a thought.

Any modifications to the transmission cover will make it prone to water intrusion. When enough water gets in the transmission it will make the belt slip, glazing its surface.
I think this kind of belt failure is a consequence of riding at top speed for very long periods of time. I myself was lucky not to have to endure this kind of problem l, even with performance variator, maybe because I never really push my scooter to the limit.

So let me see if I get this correct. If you want more speed from a Yuminashi kit, without the belt breaking in the middle of your ride, you will have to add vent holes, which THEY said nothing about previously, and those vent holes could allow water intrusion, which could glaze the surface and cause the belt to start slipping, which will in turn cause your bike to slow down again, and in the end you will have to take everything apart again to fix the glazing...
Did I miss anything??

Mel46 wrote:So let me see if I get this correct. If you want more speed from a Yuminashi kit, without the belt breaking in the middle of your ride, you will have to add vent holes, which THEY said nothing about previously, and those vent holes could allow water intrusion, which could glaze the surface and cause the belt to start slipping, which will in turn cause your bike to slow down again, and in the end you will have to take everything apart again to fix the glazing...
Did I miss anything??

You don't fix the glazing. You change the belt haha. Just kidding, file it mildly with sandpaper and it'll be fine.

Well Yuminashi don't mention a lot of things on their websites. But they did tell us to watch our belts so they allow themselves an easy exit route there.

IMHO, don't worry too much. Get yourself an 8mm T, a variator opener tool, 22mm and 19mm socket plus a torque wrench and put them in the u box with like 20 backup belts. If you break one be sure to park it and replace it. Sounds easy enough. Oh wait..

BPT7594, do you have a torque value for the variator nut?

Eiron, I remember 54 Nm, but will check it when I arrive home and able to peek in my service manual.

US shop manual shows 44 ft/lbs

Eiron wrote:BPT7594, do you have a torque value for the variator nut?

All Honda torque values are "wet value". Meaning you put some oil in there before you twist. Otherwise there will not be enough torque.

The 22mm nut on the variator is 59Nm (43.52 foot pounds).
The 19mm nut on the bell is 49Nm (36.14 foot pounds).

BPT7594 wrote:

Eiron wrote:BPT7594, do you have a torque value for the variator nut?

All Honda torque values are "wet value". Meaning you put some oil in there before you twist. Otherwise there will not be enough torque.

The 22mm nut on the variator is 59Nm (43.52 foot pounds).
The 19mm nut on the bell is 49Nm (36.14 foot pounds).

Put oil in where? On the thread, on the washer, or on the flange of the nut?

Thanks Jge64 and BPT7594!

chicaboo, a drop of oil on the threads of the spindle before you spin the nut on.

Eiron wrote:Thanks Jge64 and BPT7594!

chicaboo, a drop of oil on the threads of the spindle before you spin the nut on.

Thanks.

chicaboo wrote:

Eiron wrote:Thanks Jge64 and BPT7594!

chicaboo, a drop of oil on the threads of the spindle before you spin the nut on.

Thanks.

Make sure you wipe every oil left with gas.
I get oil in the variator face once. Very nice experience