The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Using a holding tool is redundant if you use an impact tool.

Not trying to be a jerk, but why? And how could an Electric or Air Impact tool cause damage ? Does it do more than just loosen a nut or bolt?

Lot's of good information here. . ..

Sounds like there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Old Grinner wrote:Lot's of good information here. . ..

Sounds like there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Skinning a cat will damage it.

Warning: This short video represents what you may sound like when struggling to remove a stubborn fastener on a motor scooter. . .. Have all necessary refreshments on standby.

I've ordered a breaker bar and will try and make a different style variator holder - one with bolts in a circle that lock into the finns rather than the two holes. Searching google for this issue, someone said occasionally the nut is loctited on (hope not, had real problems getting my barr end bolts off as they had 1/2" red loctite on each bolt!)

iceman wrote:I've ordered a breaker bar and will try and make a different style variator holder - one with bolts in a circle that lock into the finns rather than the two holes. Searching google for this issue, someone said occasionally the nut is loctited on (hope not, had real problems getting my barr end bolts off as they had 1/2" red loctite on each bolt!)

Cut the corners off your home made tool and then bend over so they fit in the holes. Wouldn't really want to use the fins if at all possible.

DAB wrote:

iceman wrote:I've ordered a breaker bar and will try and make a different style variator holder - one with bolts in a circle that lock into the finns rather than the two holes. Searching google for this issue, someone said occasionally the nut is loctited on (hope not, had real problems getting my barr end bolts off as they had 1/2" red loctite on each bolt!)

Cut the corners off your home made tool and then bend over so they fit in the holes. Wouldn't really want to use the fins if at all possible.

It was seated well, but the bolts and bar both bent - bolt more so so would not trust it anymore. Seems the nut is really tight if not loctited

Here's a way to remove and install, or replace a CVT belt without any tools or removing of variator / clutch. May come in useful one day, only the PCX makes it difficult due to body panel that needs to come off, so not so easy if your belt brakes and you carry a spare.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XakWj8YM_P4

In order to do a proper maintenance you MUST get that nut out. Impact wrenches -forget about it. Get a proper Holding tool, i am using Buzzetti universal and it works fine. It has a tendency to slip at the bottom, just keep in place against the central stand with your feet while unscrewing the bolt. Do whatever it takes, try to unlock bolt after a ride when engine is still warm, put just a drop of penetrating oil... etc

You need to check your rollers, the sliders on the variator and the belt. Most probably if you have been just city riding for most of the time everything I mentioned is pretty much shot including your Face drive which will have marks on it. See below how mine looked at about the same mileage as yours ( same model, dec 2014 led). I decided to go for a J.Costa EVO 3 when i changed my belt at 24.000 km (you can now find them at 104 GBP on ebay.uk, a real bargain if you ask me). You will not know how smooth and what performance your pcx is still capable until you do this maintenance / mod.

Don't skimp- A tell tale sign that the transmission needs your attention is if PCX gets "jumpy " while idling on center stand. in the long run this puts strain on the crankshaft bearings and that you'll bitterly regret if they get shot.

I have the same, or very similar tool to the one you mention, https://tinyurl.com/y93ygm8w
The larger pins work fine for the outer clutch bell nut, but the two small pins on the opposite side are not large enough diameter for the two holes one the variator, but far, far too short - they barely go in at all. My version of that tool, and it looks the same with the red handles, is dire for the task as it slips out of the holes all the time.

"they barely go in at all"


?? I'm using the same one - Buzzetti 5637. My mech had once tightened the variator nut with an impact wrench and when i tried to remove it a month later it was so tight that i was lifting the whole pcx from ground before it untightened- i forbid him to ever do that again!

I suspect you need to practice a bit- yes the small studs will slip under torque if you don't keep them pressed against the variator. the tool needs to be blocked both at the bottom ( the red plastic part) i usually block it against the center stand AND it needs to be pressed against the variator- i usually do that with my feet so i have both hands to do the untorquing on the nut. Use as long as you can find dynamometric key.

Alternatively you can put the pcx on side stand, rotate the tool and variator anticlokwise so now the red part touches ground- press it on with feet again. untighten.

Last resort get a friend to hold it pressed (but you still have to block the red part anticlockwise against something solid- hands will not do it here)
Good luck- let us know

I'll post a pic of my buzzetti's studs tomorrow, so you can cross-check, maybe you have received a fake one or whatever...

tomtomclub2005 wrote:I'll post a pic of my buzzetti's studs tomorrow, so you can cross-check, maybe you have received a fake one or whatever...

Thanks! There's a youtube video showing my one being used with a breaker bar and the nut came off easily. Maybe mine is fake - Ebay again!

This is showing the studs i use for the variator:
Cheers

iceman wrote:Here's a way to remove and install, or replace a CVT belt without any tools or removing of variator / clutch. May come in useful one day, only the PCX makes it difficult due to body panel that needs to come off, so not so easy if your belt brakes and you carry a spare.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XakWj8YM_P4

Jesus Christ can he talk...

Might be an easy trick on a cheap and cheerful Chinese gy6 but I'd like to see him try it on a Forza 300
I could move the clutch pulley on the PCX but no chance on the Forza 300
I'm guessing more powerful engine needs stronger springs.

tomtomclub2005 wrote:This is showing the studs i use for the variator: Cheers

Mine looks simllar but the small 'studs' are shorter. The one that has the large mound behind it is about 3/4 the depth of the mound whereas yours look about 1.5 times the depth. Too short to be of use. Also they are only about 4mm wide whereas they should be 6mm (1/4" inch is ideal fit as 6mm is still a bit loose). Thanks for the pic.

iceman wrote:The clutch pads looked ok too but I will fit the 'non-pcx' style to aid smoother take-off.

Hi iceman, could you share what are these 'non-pcx' style pads that you mentioned? I'm curious!

iceman wrote:Mine looks simllar but the small 'studs' are shorter. The one that has the large mound behind it is about 3/4 the depth of the mound whereas yours look about 1.5 times the depth. Too short to be of use. Also they are only about 4mm wide whereas they should be 6mm (1/4" inch is ideal fit as 6mm is still a bit loose). Thanks for the pic.

Ok then you could cook up something DIY like this? Check this site, it will give you ideas: modern vespa site
Cheers

PS: I could try to scan my old face drive so you can make a template for drilling