The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Don't know how I did it but I did, I broke one of the stud bolt (#16 on photo) connecting the exhaust to the cylinder head. Probably over tightened it and it just broke.

That was a few months ago when I changed my rear brake's shoes but the other bolt left held the exhaust without any problems so I just let it be.

Now Iv'e bought new stud bolts and is ready to change it but i haven't checked the damage to the broken bolt, so I'm not sure if I might be able to pull it out easily.

Not sure what are my options if I can't pull it out myself.

Just posting here to warn you guys to never over tightened them.

I'll post updates once I can find the time to work on it.

If there’s any stud still there to grip on, first get some “Kroil” spray to soak the stud threads with several times before you try to back it out. If there’s not, Hit it with Kroil, get a reverse drill bit to Drill the hole for the extractor. Lots of times, the reverse torque will back out the stud while drilling and the extractor isn’t needed - eliminating the (horrible) risk of busting it in the stud. Kroil is in a whole separate league of penetrating fluid than anything else hands down.

Thanks for the tip especially about the "Kroil" spray. I can't find it here in Thailand but I'm sure there are other alternative brands of penetrating oil here.

I'm crossing my fingers that there's just some parts left for me to grip with a pliers or something..

alx123 wrote:Thanks for the tip especially about the "Kroil" spray. I can't find it here in Thailand but I'm sure there are other alternative brands of penetrating oil here.

I'm crossing my fingers that there's just some parts left for me to grip with a pliers or something..

Vicegrips

Very, very careful friend stripped his waiting for his torque wrench to click.
Hand snug is all that's needed.
Good luck. ..hope it comes right out for you.
He had to take his to a shop.....get it up on a lift.
Fish

Torque wrenches are the work of satan.

Exhaust studs are prone to this as the obviously go through quite a few heat cycles which can make them brittle.

Just nip up hand tight.

If there is enough thread you could put a second plain nut over it to act as a locknut and you’ll need less tightening torque on the first to keep things secure.

Fortunately for me, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was.
I just need the right tool to pull the broken one out.

There might be just enough space to do what Youyou suggested.

If it doesn't budge on the first try consider adding some heat around the broken stud.

alx123 wrote:Fortunately for me, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was.
I just need the right tool to pull the broken one out.

Vicegrip

springer1 wrote:

alx123 wrote:Fortunately for me, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was.
I just need the right tool to pull the broken one out.

Vicegrip

I heard you the first time, but I don't own a vicegrip at the moment.

E. Foster Salsbury wrote:If it doesn't budge on the first try consider adding some heat around the broken stud.

Thanks for the tip. I will try to pull it out with the right tools first to see how it is, then heating it up might be an option if it proves to be difficult.

Update:

With the right tool, a long nosed vice grip, it only took 5 minutes for me to remove and change the broken stud.

No heating, nor any lubrication needed..

Thanks to @Springer1 for the advice
Hope this serves as a reminder to everyone to never over-tighten your exhaust nuts. Don't ever use a torque wrench on these smaller nuts.

Bravo - Its great to hear that you didn't encounter any additional snags !