2 year service performed
Posted: Mon Dec 23, 2013 10:36 pm
I recently acquired a 2011 PCX125 with a bald tire, and 6700 miles on it.
I told you about my tale of woe regarding the stuck swing arm. I opted to put down the big hammers, torches, and electric sawzall's to split the reduction gear box. The end result was great, getting there was a chore. This force me into taking off most of the bikes plastic, and since I was in it, I did what needed to be done, and I took my time and paid homage to the maintenance schedule. ( I like to call it "free labor")
I ordered a (US) manual from Helm Publications for $45.95USD delivered, and I waited until I received it in the mail before I started.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.as ... itemtype=N
(I purchased a 1984 Honda Gyro NN50MD in 1993, and purchased an official shop manual for it. I still own the damn thing, and thanks to having the manual around, I've managed to keep it running great for all these years, and it's never had to go into a professional shop, so if your thinking of maintaining the PCX on your own, spring for the manual, you'll be glad you did!)
Think of taking off the PCX plastic as, well a rubik's cube. The shit has to come off in a certain order. There is hidden screws galore. Clips, secret hand shakes etc... The manual will remove 90% of the heavy thinking. You'll then realize using the manual how well engineered Honda's are.
The bike had damaged plastic on the right side, so I sprung for the right lower cover, and right hand front cover.
SO OFF it all came.
The manual prevented damage on the disassembly, and only two broken tabs here and there on assembly. The end result was very good, with only 4 left over screws, that I have no idea what I missed, where. And I was careful...
Muffler - starting to rust, wire brushed, OSPHO'd and a fresh coat of BBQ flat black. $2 in paint, to extend the life of a $211 muffler/pipe.
Spark Plug - It was due:
Air Cleaner - Replaced
It wasn't bad, but the pores in the paper were filled, and beyond cleaning.
Belt wear - manual calls for replacement at a width of 21 mm, with it being 22 mm at new. I measured 21.5, so it's on target for the 10k mile lifespan.
Drive Pulley - Noted some flat spots on weights. Will order a replacement set.
Oil Change - I my strainer was clear. The oil was ready. I used Pro Honda HM-4M 10-30, since the autoparts store didn't have a suitable alternative. $9.00 qt at Honda.
Gear Box Oil - Needed an extra quart of HM-4M, for the 4 oz the box called for. I had the gearbox apart, with the speed sensor out. Noted a bit of metal sludge buildup on the sensor.
Valve clearance check - I took the cover off, clearances still in spec
Brake Fluid change out - I used a vacuum hand pump with a catch bottle. The CBS (Combined Brake System) reservoir is impossible to deal with, with covers on. The two screw holding the front brake's reservoir's cover was showing white oxide from the aluminum reservoir. I brushed them up and place some anti-seize compound on the screws.
I noted oxidation on my ECM module. I removed it, lightly brushed of the white oxide, taped up the connectors and sprayed a coat of flat black on it, to prevent any further degradation. Also applied some electrical tape onto the electrical harness, where it I thought it would be helpful.
I thought I would write this up, so if you (the reader) are looking at a service interval, you have some frame of reference on what to expect / think about.
I told you about my tale of woe regarding the stuck swing arm. I opted to put down the big hammers, torches, and electric sawzall's to split the reduction gear box. The end result was great, getting there was a chore. This force me into taking off most of the bikes plastic, and since I was in it, I did what needed to be done, and I took my time and paid homage to the maintenance schedule. ( I like to call it "free labor")
I ordered a (US) manual from Helm Publications for $45.95USD delivered, and I waited until I received it in the mail before I started.
http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.as ... itemtype=N
(I purchased a 1984 Honda Gyro NN50MD in 1993, and purchased an official shop manual for it. I still own the damn thing, and thanks to having the manual around, I've managed to keep it running great for all these years, and it's never had to go into a professional shop, so if your thinking of maintaining the PCX on your own, spring for the manual, you'll be glad you did!)
Think of taking off the PCX plastic as, well a rubik's cube. The shit has to come off in a certain order. There is hidden screws galore. Clips, secret hand shakes etc... The manual will remove 90% of the heavy thinking. You'll then realize using the manual how well engineered Honda's are.
The bike had damaged plastic on the right side, so I sprung for the right lower cover, and right hand front cover.
SO OFF it all came.
The manual prevented damage on the disassembly, and only two broken tabs here and there on assembly. The end result was very good, with only 4 left over screws, that I have no idea what I missed, where. And I was careful...
Muffler - starting to rust, wire brushed, OSPHO'd and a fresh coat of BBQ flat black. $2 in paint, to extend the life of a $211 muffler/pipe.
Spark Plug - It was due:
Air Cleaner - Replaced
It wasn't bad, but the pores in the paper were filled, and beyond cleaning.
Belt wear - manual calls for replacement at a width of 21 mm, with it being 22 mm at new. I measured 21.5, so it's on target for the 10k mile lifespan.
Drive Pulley - Noted some flat spots on weights. Will order a replacement set.
Oil Change - I my strainer was clear. The oil was ready. I used Pro Honda HM-4M 10-30, since the autoparts store didn't have a suitable alternative. $9.00 qt at Honda.
Gear Box Oil - Needed an extra quart of HM-4M, for the 4 oz the box called for. I had the gearbox apart, with the speed sensor out. Noted a bit of metal sludge buildup on the sensor.
Valve clearance check - I took the cover off, clearances still in spec
Brake Fluid change out - I used a vacuum hand pump with a catch bottle. The CBS (Combined Brake System) reservoir is impossible to deal with, with covers on. The two screw holding the front brake's reservoir's cover was showing white oxide from the aluminum reservoir. I brushed them up and place some anti-seize compound on the screws.
I noted oxidation on my ECM module. I removed it, lightly brushed of the white oxide, taped up the connectors and sprayed a coat of flat black on it, to prevent any further degradation. Also applied some electrical tape onto the electrical harness, where it I thought it would be helpful.
I thought I would write this up, so if you (the reader) are looking at a service interval, you have some frame of reference on what to expect / think about.
(just kidding) great job! 
