Takegawa Variator (how to install an aftermarket variator)
Posted: Wed Oct 23, 2013 2:31 pm
Before I get started... I never thought I'd be posting here about modding my PCX. There was a huge controversy at clubpcx (our previous rival -- the forum is now closed) over the JCosta variator. Clubpcx was run by a performance site that was reselling that variator, often pushing people to buy them unprompted, and most people didn't see a difference in performance. I was one of the skeptics, and was vocal against their unsubstantiated claims. I have NO proof of my mods (yet) because I haven't taken a video. I will get one soon.
This all started around the time me and wife started trying to get pregnant. I agreed to only keep one bike. I LOVE my PCX, it's the best bike I've ever owned. I get compliments constantly, and my dog can ride on it easily and safely. But, it's not highway capable. I HAD to have my only bike be highway capable, so I PM'd PCXDemon, who has done the most mods and has the most experience with tweaking the PCX (his epic thread is here). He recommended I order a Takegawa variator, belt, and some spacers. All I actually ended up using was the variator, which has the make/model: SP TAKEGAWA High speed pulley kit (02-01-0025). The entire order from Japan was under $100 shipped. At that price, it was worth the risk.
I bought a variator removal tool from Amazon. You ALWAYS should have the right tools to do the job.
I also used a 1/2" ratchet set, a 1/4" ratchet set, and a philips head screwdriver.
I apologize for the horrendous pictures, I used my iPhone. If there's interest, I'll make this into a proper how-to and take real pictures with good lighting.
Here's the parts!
Variator, belt, spacers, weights. I didn't end up using ANYTHING other than the variator.
- My belt was still in-spec. I'll swap to the new one at 10k miles.
- The spacers took a couple of mph off of top end, but added slightly improved acceleration. I preferred the top speed.
- The weights that came with the variator were too light. I actually only got 54mph with just the variator swapped. I saw major speed gains when I put the stock rollers in the aftermarket variator.
Start by removing the floorboard on the left side. Gently pull up the rubber mat.
Begin removing screws and bolts. (2 bolts, 7 screws) Remove where indicated on the next few pictures.
Slide the lower left panel off. You will have to put down the kickstand to do so. It slides directly off to the left, then down and left.
Now, you need to remove all the bolts from the variator cover. Remove em!
Look at that beautiful variator! Ok, so the circular thing on the left is the variator. The thing on the right is the clutch. You can tell they're connected with a belt. I could ramble on for paragraphs about how variators work, but Wikipedia does it well. Scroll down to "Variable-diameter pulley" and look at the pretty gif.
Now, get out your tools. I used a 1/2" ratchet and extension and the aforementioned variator tool:
Clamp that tool on, take hold of both, and CRANK IT OFF. It'll be difficult, Honda has this station at the factory manned by gorillas with wrenches. After you take off the nut, the outer pulley and a washer will slide off easily.
This is what it will look like after you remove the nut, washer, and the outer pulley:
Move the belt out of the way. Slide out the variator (which is also the inner pulley) and spacer. Note how the variator is a pulley with a cover on the back, and weights under the cover. Here's what it all looks like in a row:
Now for a comparison shot! On the left is stock, on the right is aftermarket. Both have the covers over the weights removed (the cover just lifts off). You can't quite tell from the pictures, but the aftermarket one allows the weights to go slightly further out, allowing the pulleys to get closer together than the stock configuration. This is where the top speed is added -- it's like upgrading your bike's front sprocket from a 38 tooth to a 41 tooth. The added diameter in the front means you get more rotations in the back per rotation in the front.
Take the covers off the variators, and put the stock weights in the aftermarket variator. Slide it back in:
Slide on the spacer, put the belt back in place, put the outer pulley in place, washer in place, and put the nut on. Tighten to factory spec (40 ft/lb of torque). If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten it well, but don't gorilla-with-a-wrench it.
All done!
I'll try to go get a video tonight if I have time. It's awesome seeing that speedo climb up way past 55!
This all started around the time me and wife started trying to get pregnant. I agreed to only keep one bike. I LOVE my PCX, it's the best bike I've ever owned. I get compliments constantly, and my dog can ride on it easily and safely. But, it's not highway capable. I HAD to have my only bike be highway capable, so I PM'd PCXDemon, who has done the most mods and has the most experience with tweaking the PCX (his epic thread is here). He recommended I order a Takegawa variator, belt, and some spacers. All I actually ended up using was the variator, which has the make/model: SP TAKEGAWA High speed pulley kit (02-01-0025). The entire order from Japan was under $100 shipped. At that price, it was worth the risk.
I bought a variator removal tool from Amazon. You ALWAYS should have the right tools to do the job.

I apologize for the horrendous pictures, I used my iPhone. If there's interest, I'll make this into a proper how-to and take real pictures with good lighting.
Here's the parts!
Variator, belt, spacers, weights. I didn't end up using ANYTHING other than the variator.
- My belt was still in-spec. I'll swap to the new one at 10k miles.
- The spacers took a couple of mph off of top end, but added slightly improved acceleration. I preferred the top speed.
- The weights that came with the variator were too light. I actually only got 54mph with just the variator swapped. I saw major speed gains when I put the stock rollers in the aftermarket variator.
Start by removing the floorboard on the left side. Gently pull up the rubber mat.
Begin removing screws and bolts. (2 bolts, 7 screws) Remove where indicated on the next few pictures.
Slide the lower left panel off. You will have to put down the kickstand to do so. It slides directly off to the left, then down and left.
Now, you need to remove all the bolts from the variator cover. Remove em!
Look at that beautiful variator! Ok, so the circular thing on the left is the variator. The thing on the right is the clutch. You can tell they're connected with a belt. I could ramble on for paragraphs about how variators work, but Wikipedia does it well. Scroll down to "Variable-diameter pulley" and look at the pretty gif.
Now, get out your tools. I used a 1/2" ratchet and extension and the aforementioned variator tool:
Clamp that tool on, take hold of both, and CRANK IT OFF. It'll be difficult, Honda has this station at the factory manned by gorillas with wrenches. After you take off the nut, the outer pulley and a washer will slide off easily.
This is what it will look like after you remove the nut, washer, and the outer pulley:
Move the belt out of the way. Slide out the variator (which is also the inner pulley) and spacer. Note how the variator is a pulley with a cover on the back, and weights under the cover. Here's what it all looks like in a row:
Now for a comparison shot! On the left is stock, on the right is aftermarket. Both have the covers over the weights removed (the cover just lifts off). You can't quite tell from the pictures, but the aftermarket one allows the weights to go slightly further out, allowing the pulleys to get closer together than the stock configuration. This is where the top speed is added -- it's like upgrading your bike's front sprocket from a 38 tooth to a 41 tooth. The added diameter in the front means you get more rotations in the back per rotation in the front.
Take the covers off the variators, and put the stock weights in the aftermarket variator. Slide it back in:
Slide on the spacer, put the belt back in place, put the outer pulley in place, washer in place, and put the nut on. Tighten to factory spec (40 ft/lb of torque). If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten it well, but don't gorilla-with-a-wrench it.
All done!
I'll try to go get a video tonight if I have time. It's awesome seeing that speedo climb up way past 55!
