The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

My sliders came in today! Just wondering if anyone has removed the variator without the special clutch holding tool? I'm a manufacturing/auto engineer and work in a tool shop so I could make one if need be.

But if I don't have to, that would be even better!

You don't need the special tool, your impact wrench will remove the nut with ease. However one should brace it somehow to get a proper torque when done. I didn't bother to torque mine though, I just impact wrenched it back. My guess is you don't want a very serious impact wrench, I could look up the torque if you don't have a SM. At the end of my video here you see the one I used and it was more than enough.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NRc9g3Dasw

I was gonna say... "Clutch tool?" I've never used a clutch tool on a CVT in my life.

Yes, I have an impact wrench. But the variator will just spin. The clutch tool holds the variator. What are you using to brace it so it doesn't just spin?

RRocket wrote:Yes, I have an impact wrench. But the variator will just spin. The clutch tool holds the variator. What are you using to brace it so it doesn't just spin?

Nothing, just the resistance of the engine compression and or belt. Here watch this guy but for God's sake don't start it up and run open belts whilst having hoody strings hanging from your neck. What an accident waiting to happen.

btw I did not use lock tight on reassembly to avoid problems during the next roller swap and I did not see any on it from the factory. Don't tighten it back on the belt with power tool, do what he does to be sure its moving free.

I made one of these.



I used 20mm x 5mm steel because that is what had. One piece is aprox 500mm long the other about 220mm again just what was lying around. The bolts are 6mm x 30mm and 6 x 25 so as to make them the same length and the 30mm one has two nuts on it ... if you make one you will see?

Surf for DIY variator tool as there are many ways to skin a cat.

I would advise against using a rattle gun, PCX maybe OK but on some small scooters the rattle gun shifts the crank alignment.

homie wrote: Nothing, just the resistance of the engine compression and or belt. Here watch this guy but for God's sake don't start it up and run open belts whilst having hoody strings hanging from your neck. What an accident waiting to happen.

btw I did not use lock tight on reassembly to avoid problems during the next roller swap and I did not see any on it from the factory. Don't tighten it back on the belt with power tool, do what he does to be sure its moving free.

I can turn it with my hand LOL There is absolutely no resistance of any type. A teeny 150 single doesn't have that much compression to offer much in the way of resistance.

I cannot imagine removing the drive face without holding it down (if one has no impact driver like myself).
However it is fairly easy to make one. Here's mine. It took me like 12 minutes to make it - including looking for the parts.
The bolts are M6x35 with matching self tapping nuts.

I knew long term I was gonna mess with diff slider weights, so I just bought the tool on AMZN, it also works on my outboard motors....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS ... ge_o05_s00

As he said....The force from the the impact is so sudden that it will remove or reinstall the nut without anything holding the pullies.

waspmike wrote:I made one of these.

I made one too.

Less than $5 in parts from the hardware store.

MAde one out of 5mm aluminium strips - the strips started to bend and one of the 6mm bolts did bend about 30 degrees (placed in the two holes). I can understand the aluminium being too soft, steel or iron is stronger, but the bolt bending! (cannot straigten to remove now, but no bother as the aluminium strips are no good)

Someone else on this forum used wood to make one. That should be easy enough, but I would go with metal, sort of like this one. Use bolts that fit somewhat snug in the holes, but not too snug. You shouldn't have to force them.

Mel, that's the type that I made, but 5mm aluminium. Even if made out of stronger metal, the fact is the 6mm bolts started to bend, one has most of it's length bent at 30 degree's - so probably happen again.

Hmmm...interesting. how about those bolts that have no thread halfway down from the head? You could cut the head off and have a more solid post after screwing it in. The thread is the weakest part of the bolt.

There's two tools required for CVT dismantling.

1: Front pulley, a holder for the drive face which is two pins that engage in holes on the drive face, these tools are usually Y shaped, but I just drilled a piece of scrap plywood and added bolts to suit.

2: Rear pulley, a holder for the clutch drum, a large-ish strap wrench is ideal, I got one from the interweb for a few quid.