The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

My idle stop switch has stopped working. The engine no longer switches off when I'm stationary at traffic lights. This used to sometimes occur when I had only just started my commute when the engine hasn't fully warmed up but now it still doesn't work even when the engine is fully warm and I'm well into my journey.

Is there any easy fix for this? What needs to be done?

be happy... seemed like a silly thing anyway

It's just being idle

you you wrote:It's just being idle

This poor guy, nobody knows what to do? He's sitting over there in the UK burning petrol at £1.0930 (£4.97 per gallon). Its wet, cold, he's got this big 'L' plastered all over his precious, there are no guns to vent his frustration ... he's pissed I tell you! Can somebody help him out.

Could be a few things. I was just flipping through the manual and I don't see anything on it. likely going to need a pro to hook up to the controller. We don't have (what I know as) "stop-start" from our vehicles on the version of the bike we get in the States. I don't like it in our cars, either. More to fail. Were it up to me, I'd leave it alone. At close to a hundred miles to the gallon, it can idle at traffic lights.
One other thing occurs to me from my experience with "stop-start": It doesn't engage if the battery is below 80% charge. Might be something similar on the bike. That "stop-start" system might be a battery-eater, huh? It sure is on the vehicles I had experience with.

Pre '14/15 version or '15 model? The new ones stop idle-stop from working if it detects the battery condition is too low and thus stop the battery getting flat - I'm not sure if it's just volts or over time as the service manual has a graph of how it detects (and measures) things for that action.
I've only had idle-stop on once, or three times to be accurate, and that was by accident as the switch got knocked when I was trying to get the bar ends off (with some help - we failed!). Got worried as to why the engine cut off and then realised the switch was in the wrong position.
Otherwise never used it in 17 months of riding 365 days / yr across london with plenty of lights, hold-ups, etc, and my average mpg is 135 - so why use idle stop - it will only save you pence each week.

Why use idle stop?
Two reasons, one: its nice to sit in peace without the engine running, two: its a fun gadget and can surprise other road users when you blow them off at the lights from a stopped engine.

Idle stop only become active when it detects the coolant is up to temperature and I think on early models there was switch which detected if the seat was properly closed.
Coolant temp sensor and the seat switch would be things to look at.

gn2 wrote:Why use idle stop?
Two reasons, one: its nice to sit in peace without the engine running, two: its a fun gadget and can surprise other road users when you blow them off at the lights from a stopped engine.

Idle stop only become active when it detects the coolant is up to temperature and I think on early models there was switch which detected if the seat was properly closed.
Coolant temp sensor and the seat switch would be things to look at.

Now you see, it might have be a cool fun feature but then they have to couple it with a bunch if other sensors and you have a trip to the repair shop with cash flying out of your pocket. Coolant temperature and seat latch, whilst you get run over by a truck sitting there at a green light.

The idle stop is only activated if the coolant is up to temperature and the seat is in the correct position.
This means that should these items fail, the engine will be idling when stationary as per normal.
If the idle stop is activated, it wil start in just under three tenths of a second.

gn2 wrote:Why use idle stop?
Two reasons, one: its nice to sit in peace without the engine running, two: its a fun gadget and can surprise other road users when you blow them off at the lights from a stopped engine.

Idle stop only become active when it detects the coolant is up to temperature and I think on early models there was switch which detected if the seat was properly closed.
Coolant temp sensor and the seat switch would be things to look at.

Thanks gn2. I wonder if it's something to do with the custom seat I have recently started using as thinking about, the idle stop fault seems to have coincided with me using this new seat. I am having to use the seat without the 2 little rubber bungs in each hole as I couldnt get the seat to close with them in. I have also noticed a few times that although the seat does appear to clip into the latch and close, when I alight the bike when I reach my destination and push the seat switch to pop up the seat, the switch doesn't do anything as I then discover that the seat was already open. My bike is an older 2011 model. I might put the original seat back on and see what happens with the idle stop.

Actually the idle stop system checks if the rider is sitting on the seat, not that it has been closed or not.
It is hihgly possible that your new seat is causing the issue.

Just done some research and found this post from another forum about the seat situation:

"I solved the problem with a little bit of brain power, fiddling under the seat and with some black tape...

Note that when you're changing your seat, there's a switch at the hinge. The seat will cause the contact to depress and close the connection to the system for the idling stop to activate. When you change your seat, the new seat might not be able to depress this contact and thus the idling system will "fail".

To solve this, use black tape to "force" the contact point to close.

Otherwise, the switch is connected by 2 contact wires under the hinge. Make sure to connect these back also when you change a new seat. If not I'm also figuring it is possible to take these 2 wires out and connect them directly together to bypass the switch"

homie wrote:This poor guy, nobody knows what to do? He's sitting over there in the UK burning petrol at £1.0930 (£4.97 per gallon). Its wet, cold, he's got this big 'L' plastered all over his precious, there are no guns to vent his frustration ... he's pissed I tell you! Can somebody help him out.

You don't need a gun to vent. Just realise you are the perfect product of your society. Might be a bit alien to the rest of the world. But piss everything away as quickly as you can, because you can

We might thing you are twats though

Larry David wrote:Just done some research and found this post from another forum about the seat situation:
"I solved the problem with a little bit of brain power, fiddling under the seat and with some black tape...
Note that when you're changing your seat, there's a switch at the hinge. The seat will cause the contact to depress and close the connection to the system for the idling stop to activate. When you change your seat, the new seat might not be able to depress this contact and thus the idling system will "fail".
To solve this, use black tape to "force" the contact point to close.
Otherwise, the switch is connected by 2 contact wires under the hinge. Make sure to connect these back also when you change a new seat. If not I'm also figuring it is possible to take these 2 wires out and connect them directly together to bypass the switch"

I guess the only issue is if the bike is on, side stand up, and idle stop active due to the switch by-passed. If the bike is 'rolled' away and the throttle lightly touched the engine with start and the bike zoom away. Not likely but that I gather is why Honda put the safety measure in place. One day you may not realise the bike is actually on but engine cut, go to move it and lose it!

Larry David wrote:Just done some research and found this post from another forum about the seat situation:

"I solved the problem with a little bit of brain power, fiddling under the seat and with some black tape...

Note that when you're changing your seat, there's a switch at the hinge. The seat will cause the contact to depress and close the connection to the system for the idling stop to activate. When you change your seat, the new seat might not be able to depress this contact and thus the idling system will "fail".

To solve this, use black tape to "force" the contact point to close.

Otherwise, the switch is connected by 2 contact wires under the hinge. Make sure to connect these back also when you change a new seat. If not I'm also figuring it is possible to take these 2 wires out and connect them directly together to bypass the switch"

I apologize for ressurecting an old thread but this topic is quite relevant for me now.

I am having the same problem now, my idling stop is not working. I know a lot of people hate this feature, but not me. I find this function very useful.

At first I though my battery is getting old since the scoot is now 4 years old. I did a voltage test yesterday and the battery passed with flying colors; Standing voltage at 12.70+V , cranking voltage at 11+V and immediately went up above 13V after a few seconds of idling. With these results I conlude that my battery is 100% healthy. (unless I miss something)

Now, Iv'e read about these contact wires under the seat that affects idling stop. Anyone can point me in the right direction where to find this switch? Iv'e remove my seat but didnt see anything there LOL.

I also know that the engine should be at least 60 deg C for idle stop to work, which surely is not the problem of my PCX because my idle stop still isn't working even after an hour of riding.

What other reasons might cause the idling stop to stop working? Aside from the seat switch I can't find (mine's a 2016 model) and a faulty battery (unlikely)?

I believe the seat pressure switch was removed before 2016 model.
Should be above 14volts when charging.
Try a new battery.

Don't fix it..do away with it.. Nothing but a headache and serves no meaningful purpose. Just another problem waiting to happen..Murphy's law !Wait till it stops and doesn't turn on in traffic.. Have fun pushing and paying $..

I’d put a new battery in tbh.

my idle stop failed earlier this year - new battery fitted - problem solved.