The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

Hi everyone -

I had my rear wheel and clutch assembly taken apart and had the clutch bearings greased up because the mechanic said that it sounded a bit "dry" inside the variator case - so upon him telling me this ever since I have been constantly checking it after he grease it everything sounded a lot better - riding felt better and then when I stopped - it still did the noise when ever I rotate the back wheel in either direction - so my thoughts are at a loss with what it could be - does anyone know ? I will try and take a video to see if any of you guys can help thanks a lot

This is a video of the noise related to this problem

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cqd4b1_ApZA

It just could be the bearings are worn in the clutch pulley. No amount of grease will fix a noisy worn bearing.
If your not sure what your doing best take it to a qualified person to get it checked.

There are a number of pcx owners on here that have had a similar complain and it was the bearings.


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Items 18 and 19 are the bearings but I replaced the pulley, item 8 as I didn't have the tools to get the bearings out.


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Have any of you guys got the location of where I can get said items so I can replace the pulley instead of just the bearings - rather do that instead of just bearings so it's all fresh - thanks guys - I got really worried that something bad was wrong and I wouldn't be able to ride it thank you in advanced

All PCX parts available here: http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/index.php

The parts you want are here: http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces- ... X+125.html

£110...!!?? Are you kidding? Damn! At bikebandit.com that part is $32...big difference! You need to look around for a better price on that part.

I got mine from Webike. It came from Japan so vat and import duty applied but it was still cheaper than the dealer.
The cheaper option would just to replace the bearings. A blind bearing puller is required to get it out apparently but do doubt someone will have a way round it.


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Alibally wrote:I got mine from Webike. It came from Japan so vat and import duty applied but it was still cheaper than the dealer.
The cheaper option would just to replace the bearings. A blind bearing puller is required to get it out apparently but do doubt someone will have a way round it.


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Do you have a link to that site ?

http://www.webike.co.uk/oem_parts/

You need to register to get an original parts quote off them.

There's loads of accessory parts on the site. I've used them before with no problems. The only thing as I said is there are vat and customs charges to need to take into consideration. The delivery to the Uk was reasonably fast as they give a tracking number. I think when you register you may get a discount code. I did anyway.


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I meant to say as well, It may be better to get it double checked before ordering anything in case you may need anything else.


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Mel46 wrote:£110...!!?? Are you kidding? Damn!

I was considering a change of rear caliper to see if that would better cure the sticking problem.
Ouch.
Then I looked at the cost of a front caliper out of curiosity.
Yikes.
Then looked at the cost of an ABS unit.
Then I needed a lie down.

Well I've already stocked up on the following

1, drive belt HONDA
2, Standard Rollers HONDA
3, Air filter Element HONDA

These parts are right from Honda themselves and they didn't cost that much but yeah that pulley face is gunna cost £118 in total with delivery - which doesn't really bother me because then at least I know it's solved a problem but if it doesn't then I'll still be looking into it but from what I can tell it does add up with the bearings being worn - when the mechanic greased it all up it was a lot quieter to start off with then back to the same noise as you can hear in the video so hmm maybe I'll try the bearings at the clutch end and work my way from there - £118 is a lot cheaper then what my old bike used to cost me and believe me it was hard to get parts for my old bike as they had to be imported from Italy and for a full body kit speedo cable footwells and main jet and exhaust was £670 and that didn't cover he importers delivering that to me so I thought sod that and sold it and bought this bike

Just fyi bikebandit.com does deliver internationally. You would probably have to go through the ordering process to see what their shipping charge would be to the UK, or you can call them. I am betting that it would still be cheaper than £110. I will look out for other places for you but I know that someone on this forum found a place there that sold the part for a more reasonable price than that.

My '15 (14 year) LED pcx has a noisy rear wheel and it's getting worse but the bike still rides fine - only really notice it when wheeling the scoot when it's off such as moving off the rear stand or parking up. Seems the assembly, part 8 on the diagram fixes the problem for anything up to £110ish. But, does anyone know if this is an MOT failure in the UK? I heard that steering and wheel bearings are some of the main things they pull you up on?

gn2 wrote:All PCX parts available here: http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/index.php
The parts you want are here: http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pieces- ... X+125.html

If you purchased the whole part '8 as one unit, how easy is it to take the rear apart and replace this component set? Are special tools needed?

Its easy enough to get the assembly off the bike, then the fun starts...

This is common issue. I had to repair mine. Here is copy/paste of what I posted earlier on the procedure.

I bit the bullet and changed out the driven pulley part with the offending bearings without really noticing loud noise.
After the change I have to say I'm glad I did it:) I didn't know it was noisy while riding and that was noticed only after I changed it. Now I hear the engine more clearly as the background din is gone.

The original part had red bearing seal vs. the new part had black bearing seal, otherwise they look the same(which is good). I didn't use the yellow grease that was included with the new part, rather used high moly grease released by Honda which was grey in color.

As it's fresh in my mind let me do some brain dump on the nitty gritty of changing out the part.
* Following are tools used:
- Impact wrench with 22mm(for variator) and 39mm(for clutch) sockets
- If 39 mm socket is not available(very hard to find), you need 15 inch adjustable wrench
[I had access to 1 9/16 socket which is 39.6mm. It's hair too big:( ]
- Large vise to hold the driven pulley/clutch assembly
- 8mm and 10mm sockets + phillips #2 screwdriver for various fastners

* Order of disassembly:
- left side foot mat(pull off)
- left side lower panel(10mm bolts and phillips)
- variator cover(8mm bolts)
- transmission cover(8mm bolts)
- variator pulley(22mm nut)
- slide out the belt+clutch/driven pulley assembly
- separate belt and clamp clutch/driven pulley assembly in vise
- clamp the assembly so when the clutch nut(39mm) is unbolted the assembly doesn't spring apart as it's under tension
- with assembly apart, pull out the three pins that ride in the three grooves
- carefully slide out the sleeve covering the shaft of the driven pulley, there will be grease that drip
- take care to keep the pulley faces clean and free of oil and grease

I'll check against my notes later but above should be close:)

Tonyx wrote:This is common issue. I had to repair mine. Here is copy/paste of what I posted earlier on the procedure.

I bit the bullet and changed out the driven pulley part with the offending bearings without really noticing loud noise.
After the change I have to say I'm glad I did it:) I didn't know it was noisy while riding and that was noticed only after I changed it. Now I hear the engine more clearly as the background din is gone.

The original part had red bearing seal vs. the new part had black bearing seal, otherwise they look the same(which is good). I didn't use the yellow grease that was included with the new part, rather used high moly grease released by Honda which was grey in color.

As it's fresh in my mind let me do some brain dump on the nitty gritty of changing out the part.
* Following are tools used:
- Impact wrench with 22mm(for variator) and 39mm(for clutch) sockets
- If 39 mm socket is not available(very hard to find), you need 15 inch adjustable wrench
[I had access to 1 9/16 socket which is 39.6mm. It's hair too big:( ]
- Large vise to hold the driven pulley/clutch assembly
- 8mm and 10mm sockets + phillips #2 screwdriver for various fastners

* Order of disassembly:
- left side foot mat(pull off)
- left side lower panel(10mm bolts and phillips)
- variator cover(8mm bolts)
- transmission cover(8mm bolts)
- variator pulley(22mm nut)
- slide out the belt+clutch/driven pulley assembly
- separate belt and clamp clutch/driven pulley assembly in vise
- clamp the assembly so when the clutch nut(39mm) is unbolted the assembly doesn't spring apart as it's under tension
- with assembly apart, pull out the three pins that ride in the three grooves
- carefully slide out the sleeve covering the shaft of the driven pulley, there will be grease that drip
- take care to keep the pulley faces clean and free of oil and grease

I'll check against my notes later but above should be close:)

Thanks! (from someone who's only changed the oil so far!)

Decco-Pcx-125 wrote:This is a video of the noise related to this problem

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cqd4b1_ApZA

That is the sound of a dry gearbox.
have you checked (changed the gear oil?)
I Use Amsoil https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/ ... ar-75w-90/
change after the first 400km and once a year after.