Exhaust studs stripped

[Marko]

I always use a torque wrench. Last time I tightened the exhaust nuts to the required 29NM one of the studs stripped the thread out of the head. It's now held on with just one stud and nut. I'm going to see if I can Helicoil it, but not sure if there is sufficient room to do so without removing the engine.
I've just Googled M6 torque settings, and all recommend 12NM, so why Honda say 29NM I don't know, but it is obviously is too much if it stripped the thread.
Also, compared to tightening it with a normal ¼" socket wrench it just feels wrong.
P.S. I do have a good quality and calibrated torque wrench.

[springer1]

I've worked with plenty of stripped threads for studs, spark plugs, etc - but I've not removed a PCX exhaust so I don't know its specifics. That said, I'd add several thoughts. 1). Before using a Helicoil, checkout an alternative called Timesert - they install a bit differently and have different advantages.

2) Since it's a stud and assuming the bottom of the drilling is sealed and DOESN'T extend through into the crankcase, you might want to consider installing the stud with "J.B.Weld Extreme heat" epoxy. Don't use the normal stuff, use this specific variant. It's different from other epoxies, very functional. Just leave it set for at least as long as recommended - preferably longer - before reattaching the exhaust, lock washers & nuts. There's no risk, if if fails and pulls out you just do the other.

Google "J.B.Weld Extreme heat" and make your decision how to proceed based on your own analysis & the stud / thread hole specifics. I'd use the industry standard recommended torque.

[springer1]

OOPS, never mind the (stupid) crankcase comment ...... should say "some vital internal" or whatever .... just make sure any epoxy can't get forced somewhere it shouldn't - same thing with any sharf produced from drilling or tapping that you'd do.

[you you]

I always use a torque wrench. Last time I tightened the exhaust nuts to the required 29NM one of the studs stripped the thread out of the head. It's now held on with just one stud and nut. I'm going to see if I can Helicoil it, but not sure if there is sufficient room to do so without removing the engine.
I've just Googled M6 torque settings, and all recommend 12NM, so why Honda say 29NM I don't know, but it is obviously is too much if it stripped the thread.
Also, compared to tightening it with a normal ¼" socket wrench it just feels wrong.
P.S. I do have a good quality and calibrated torque wrench.

You can only try it I suppose. I don't think this issue has come up before which is strange. Are you doing the work yourself?

[iceman]

Need to remove the exhaust soon to be able to knock and push through the centre stand pin - so just want to check that all bolts/nuts on the PCX except one of the wing mirror stalk bits is traditional tighten clockwise.

I noticed the garage really used some force when manually tightening the manifold fixing bolts when they replaced my rear tyre - dread to put extra pressure on them by mistake.

Thanks!

[Marko]

Exhaust stud is no longer a problem, at least not for me, as I have traded it in for a Forza 350.
I seem to remember that I didn't have to remove the exhaust to knock out the centre stand shaft, although I may be wrong, as it was a long time ago. Plenty of copper slip and Iv'e not had to do it again.