Forza Rear Wheel Removal

[mdrabik]

Hello:

My 2014 Forza is in need of a rear tire change. I want to remove the wheel and take it to local scooter servicing facility and have them remove and install the new tire on it. Then I'd just put it back on the Forza.

Problem: In the past I've successfully removed and reinstalled rear wheels from scooters that have rear drum brakes - including the PCX 150, but the Forza has rear disk brakes. I have looked over the area in question and it appears that the muffler and rear strut and nut holding the wheel on the scoot are removed as I am used to on scoots with rear drum brakes. But there is an additional bolt and cable for disk brake attached in that area. I don't know what would happen if I removed that nut and cable and am concerned that in doing what amounts to a simple task I might cripple my Forza beyond my ability to fix it requiring me to have it transported to a repair facility to let their mechanics complete the tire change. I know this may be a simple task for many here, but this is the first time I've ever had to deal with rear disk brakes.

So I am kindly requesting some help. Could somebody who has the knowledge post the procedure here? Ideally, if possible, if someone who has the Forza shop manual could post the procedure with its pics and diagrams that would be quite helpful.

Thank you very much,
Mike

[gn2]

DO NOT UNDO THE BRAKE HOSE FROM THE CALIPER!!!!!
There are two bolts which hold the brake caliper to the removeable half of the swingarm.
I undid these bolts, but I think the swingarm might pull straight off together with the wheel and the caliper still bolted in place if there's enough slack in the brake hose.
Watch for the wheel spacer which will fall out.....

[BRed]

Mike, you're going to want a service manual for this job....
if I had seen a detail of the rear swingarm, I might have had second thoughts on the Forza?

The Forza has both disc brakes AND drum brakes on the rear!

There is a small removable brake drum that fits inside the disc and over brake shoes that are mounted on the back of the false swingarm for the parking brake system...that's the cable you see running to a lever on the bottom rear.

but there's more.....
the manual says it's very important to mark the alignment of two points on the false swingarm to the frame for reference (front top and front bottom) and the swingarm should be realigned with those two marks.

If the swingarm is not repositioned exactly as it was before, you can misalign the exhaust system and the brake caliper.


The rear wheel/swingarm removal covers 10 pages in the manual, with 30 pictures and 8 drawings to cover both CM and AC models.
It's one of the most complicated rear tire removals I've seen...definitely not something you do in the dark on the side of the road.

You want a service manual on hand when you start this job.

I'd probably let the dealership do it....
on the other hand, it's so complicated, unless they have a dedicated scooter mechanic, they will probably get it wrong too.

Now I have to wonder how many of the 300s' sticky rear caliper/disc warping issues occurred AFTER a rear wheel removal?

[gn2]

The swingarm is non adjustable, it shouldn't be possible to put it on on wrong.
Same for the caliper.

[dergav]

I find these sort of posts very helpful...thanks everyone.
But can I ask what may be a daft question...another one?!...
BRed says above
"...There is a small removable brake drum that fits inside the disc and over brake shoes that are mounted on the back of the false swingarm for the parking brake system...that's the cable you see running to a lever on the bottom rear."

what is a parking brake on a Forza?

[gn2]

Not fitted on UK/Europe market Forzas.

[dergav]

Ahh!!.gn thanks...you are the fount? font? of all knowledge..that explains a puzzlement I had when reading about the Forza on line before I bought it...must have been a USA site...When I brought mine home I spent ages looking for the "parking brake"!...and gave up....didnt want to look a real numpty by asking someone where the brake was!!
Must mean that the Euro/UK maintenance manual will differ from the American/Canadian one?...and some of BReds guidances above are not relevant to us...thanks.

[gn2]

I found getting the wheel off the Forza easier than the PCX because the exhaust is two piece and all the exhaust bolts are easier to access.

[dergav]

Do you think it might be easier than the SWing rear wheel removal?...being the only experience I have....which I found Ok but took my time and followed the Haynes manual.
And when I refitted the wheel with the new tyre I seemed to have not tightened correctly...although I had torqued to the correct torque....as when at its MOT shortly after they said it was "loose/wobbling" so failed it and then tightened.
Later I read that on the Twist and Go forum that it is advised that a new fixing bolt is used when refitting a rear wheel...not too sure I understood the reasons....
always willing to listen and learn.....

[MORON]

definately get a manual. I have removed the rear tire and it is most certainly not easier than my PCX 150 was. you're not dealing with calipers or the swingarm on the PCX 150. a good 45 minutes to an hour your first time on the forza. Front rim took me 5 minutes. How come flat are always in the rear????? haha. also 150/70/13 fits and is a better size for cornering etc...I also stuck a tube in mine. the reason is the rare but occasional flat which I had. news for the future: IF you get a flat you're going to be replacing the whole tire. A joke but thats scooter life. you can plug but i don't feel safe with that. best to patch from the inside but that a bit of a hassle also. after my first flat I would go with a tube. good luck..

[gn2]

Its generally advised to use a new wheelnut each time, but you can get away with re-using it a few times.
Never done an S-wing so not sure but reckon about the same as a Forza if the exhaust is two piece.
Forza rear wheel out took me less than ten minutes, it simply isn't difficult at all.

Definitely use the correct size tyre on a UK Forza because of the ABS and absolutely not advised to use a tube in a tubeless tyre.
And tubeless tyres can usually be repaired if they get punctured.

[MORON]

150's are are fine. I mounted one and its significantly better, a more common size and an easier order. At least in the U.S. I agree on the wheel nut. I had a loose rim after about 1,000 miles. I should have mentioned that. However, your dead wrong on the tube issue. better a tube or new tire (tyre). However, a new tire is $60 to 70 u.s. Plugs (repair)....forget about it. there is obviously a huge difference between automobile tire use and motorcycle tire use. the implications are obvious. Cornering, air pressure loss when punctured, stress etc... a patch from the inside is do-able and I would consider that permanent. a plug is ok for on the road emergencies. considering a motorcycle has two tires why take a chance on a plug failing. get a tube for 7 dollars. Its a good fix, reliable and saves dollars. And technically, there is nothing wrong with a tube on an aluminum rim...thats just experience. the best fix is a new tire and that is just not affordable for many. forza rear rim removal.....nope. more parts to deal with, caliper hose, single swing axle which is very different than the PCX. If you look at the factory manuals, I have both for the PCX and Forza, you can see the differences.

[gn2]

No need for manuals to get the rear wheel off either a Forza or a PCX unless you're a total dimwit.
Here in the UK punctured tubeless tyres are routinely repaired by fitting an internal patch.
New tyre £45, puncture repair £10.
With ABS fitted (as is the case with all UK Forzas) the correct tyre size is essential.
Plus it will probably invalidate insurance if the wrong size tyre is fitted.

[MORON]

Hmm.....GN2....Not sure what purpose you're serving. To help or to bully. Many places besides Scotland and the U.K. You might want to consider the good of the forum and its readers with your post's. We are all over the world bud. You seem to have an agenda other than to help others. I've read many of your posts and replies. your verging on belligerent. Or you live for this forum....I post to help. I'm not looking for accolades. chill bro.

[dergav]

Gn..with the Swing you had to detach the exhaust which was in one piece...push it aside and support it..remove the swingarm..remove the fender/mudguard...and then get wheel of...not too big a deal once you know how...
Assume the Forza is similar but no need to touch fender...?
Academic question...why does the old wheel nut not hold?.should the blue stuff be used to lock nut on even if new one?

[gn2]

Assume the Forza is similar but no need to touch fender...?

Correct.

Academic question...why does the old wheel nut not hold?.should the blue stuff be used to lock nut on even if new one?

There's no castellation/split-pin combo, so the nut has a self locking function.
Its this self locking element which is intended to be a one time use job.
No need to use any gunky stuff.

[MORON]

I have to agree with gn2 on this one. interesting to note that the service manual describes the rear axle nut as a U Nut and under remarks says to "Apply oil and reuse". I don't agree with this unless you can tap down the ends of the U cuts which would narrow the end "tabs" again and provide the clamping function. at 2 bucks for the nut, just buy a few. They do have the torque specs at a tight 87 ftlbs. I actually lost a rear axle nut and so i will not re-use.

[dergav]

gn advice of September 2014...."There's no castellation/split-pin combo, so the nut has a self locking function.
Its this self locking element which is intended to be a one time use job.
No need to use any gunky stuff."

my question...what spec of new nut should i look for and anyplace on line I can buy a few?...I am miles away from any Honda dealer now since they closed our local one.....time to change my rear tyre again...and not too sure what I am looking for online...thanks for any tips...

[davenowherejones]

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I think modern ABS systems do a calibration every time you start the scooter. That is the reason the ABS light is on for the first 10 meters. I run the 150 size Michelin and have had no problems with the ABS.

I use the brakes hard enough to make the ABS activate sometimes. Some people let go of the brakes when the ABS shudders but that is how it is supposed to work. Just jam those suckers on and better get a foot down quickly.

150 size might be a problem in the UK insurance but I would say just fire ALL the lawyers.

[dergav]

dont think thats an answer to my query?