Would moving the cylinder head help?JonW wrote:At the end of the threads when the plug is able to be pulled out the back of the socket is hitting the frame.
If so get someone to apply some weight on the seat with it off the centrestand.
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Would moving the cylinder head help?JonW wrote:At the end of the threads when the plug is able to be pulled out the back of the socket is hitting the frame.
gn2 wrote:Would moving the cylinder head help?JonW wrote:At the end of the threads when the plug is able to be pulled out the back of the socket is hitting the frame.
If so get someone to apply some weight on the seat with it off the centrestand.
Not yet. I'm waiting for warmer weather so it will be easier to take off all the plastic panels with less chance of breaking any tabs.Hyadum wrote:Have you succeeded in replacing the spark plug so far? I'm also interested in doing this, not because I feel something going on, but I see in the manual it's recommended to change it every 8000 km
Hyadum wrote:Have you succeeded in replacing the spark plug so far? I'm also interested in doing this, not because I feel something going on, but I see in the manual it's recommended to change it every 8000 km
No, no.deyan890 wrote:Hi, just to ask what torque is recommended when tighten pcx sparkplug ?
I also use anti-seize on almost everything to prevent galling & thread stripping, especially with stainless steel, alloy or mixed-metal threads. With spark plugs, I do not apply on the 1st several threads, rather starting on the 3rd thread or so from the tip or so to prevent any of it getting in the cylinders. But, this is a personal preference, I know mechanics who rarely use it. I even use it on lug nuts. Never had a fastener come loose because of it. But again it's a personal thing I guess, some people use either a dab of oil or on the larger coarse threads - one wrap of teflon tape.JonW wrote:Why?you you wrote:I wouldn't put anything on the threads
It's pretty standard procedure with aluminum engine blocks where the metal of the block is different than the metal of the plug. It makes removing the plug later much easier and without ruining the threads in the engine block.
Anti-sieze usually requires a little more torque when initially tightening down the plug to compress the washer, since it has a very small lubricating effect when new.
Have used this all the time in my Miatas without any problems.
I see, thank you for the quick answerfish wrote: No, no.
Don't use a torque wrench unless you have a very well calibrated small torque wrench. ....BEST is to follow instructions on the spark plug box.
Finger tight it in until bottoms, then give it a turn with socket -- box should tell you what FRACTION of a full turn to use to snug the plug. It will not be a full turn, once you bottom the plug.
Little danger of stripping if done this way.
Fish