Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheating
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Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheating
Hello,
I found a killer deal on a 2016 Honda PCX WW150 2 weeks ago. $3,400 bike for $1,100. Like new condition. Runs perfectly.
Until a recent trip on a Highway. I read and hear about my model going 73mph, the seller said 65-70mph. Mind you, this man and his son were huge. 300-350lbs. I'm 175 lbs. It does not exceed 55 for me. Anyway, so I checked the oil, found it to be very low. So I added some. I
I was driving 55mph full throttle then all of a sudden I feel and see the bike lose power. It went from 55 to 50 maybe 48. After a mile or so it would pick back up and do fine. By the time i got to my destination I'd lost power 4 times and as I was parking, the overheating light came on and I smelled what seemed to be plastic. I looked it over and found no melt spots or smoke.
Also, when i first get on my bike and start it then begin to ride, theres an odd shudder or unstable shaky feeling from 0 to 10 or 15mph..
I found a killer deal on a 2016 Honda PCX WW150 2 weeks ago. $3,400 bike for $1,100. Like new condition. Runs perfectly.
Until a recent trip on a Highway. I read and hear about my model going 73mph, the seller said 65-70mph. Mind you, this man and his son were huge. 300-350lbs. I'm 175 lbs. It does not exceed 55 for me. Anyway, so I checked the oil, found it to be very low. So I added some. I
I was driving 55mph full throttle then all of a sudden I feel and see the bike lose power. It went from 55 to 50 maybe 48. After a mile or so it would pick back up and do fine. By the time i got to my destination I'd lost power 4 times and as I was parking, the overheating light came on and I smelled what seemed to be plastic. I looked it over and found no melt spots or smoke.
Also, when i first get on my bike and start it then begin to ride, theres an odd shudder or unstable shaky feeling from 0 to 10 or 15mph..
Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
Re the burning smell...
Pop the drive casing cover off and check the belt.
It should say either Bando or Mitsuboshi on it.
If the belt is another make or if it shows any visible signs of burning or damage it needs replacing.
Re the power loss...
Could be a whole host of things, ignition, fuelling, air filter, coolant leak, oil leak, knackered piston rings, valve clearances... etc...
Re the price paid...
Seller probably knows there's a serious fault and happy to offload it.
Pop the drive casing cover off and check the belt.
It should say either Bando or Mitsuboshi on it.
If the belt is another make or if it shows any visible signs of burning or damage it needs replacing.
Re the power loss...
Could be a whole host of things, ignition, fuelling, air filter, coolant leak, oil leak, knackered piston rings, valve clearances... etc...
Re the price paid...
Seller probably knows there's a serious fault and happy to offload it.
Four decades on two wheels has taught me nothing, all advice given is guaranteed to be wrong
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
My first suspicion would be running lean. So many possibilities between FI and ignition, chips, sensors, etc - If it were mine, I'd take it to the nearest Honda dealer and explain what's it's doing. I assume you already figured out you shouldn't be running it any more than absolutely necessary.I was driving 55mph full throttle then all of a sudden I feel and see the bike lose power. It went from 55 to 50 maybe 48. After a mile or so it would pick back up and do fine. By the time i got to my destination I'd lost power 4 times and as I was parking, the overheating light came on and I smelled what seemed to be plastic. I looked it over and found no melt spots or smoke.
- alx123
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
I would say the TPS sensor in the FI coz I had the same problem before. But mine didn't have that burning plastic smell and the overheat light on.
Everything looks better from the inside of a motorcycle helmet...
- Mel46
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
Is it a 150cc or a 125cc? What is your general location?
I think that the first thing I would do is change the oil and pull the strainer screen to see if there are any metal particles in the oil, as well as see how bad the oil itself was. If it was never changed you could have all sorts of problems. Heck, the previous owner could have been running sludge in it as far as you know. Treat the bike as though you found it in the jungle.
Next, change the belt and rollers. If there is an off-brand belt on it you could have problems with it either not fitting correctly or coming apart.
Since you also don't know the nature of the gas that was used, I would find a way to either remove it or add a fuel stabilizer.
Then, if it still has the same problems, I would take it to a shop.
By the way, in order for MY bikes to reach 75 mph I had to get a new belt and change the variator and rollers to NCY aftermarket ones. No PCX will run 75 mph under factory specs. 65mph with a full load...possible.
I think that the first thing I would do is change the oil and pull the strainer screen to see if there are any metal particles in the oil, as well as see how bad the oil itself was. If it was never changed you could have all sorts of problems. Heck, the previous owner could have been running sludge in it as far as you know. Treat the bike as though you found it in the jungle.
Next, change the belt and rollers. If there is an off-brand belt on it you could have problems with it either not fitting correctly or coming apart.
Since you also don't know the nature of the gas that was used, I would find a way to either remove it or add a fuel stabilizer.
Then, if it still has the same problems, I would take it to a shop.
By the way, in order for MY bikes to reach 75 mph I had to get a new belt and change the variator and rollers to NCY aftermarket ones. No PCX will run 75 mph under factory specs. 65mph with a full load...possible.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
How many miles on the odometer?Marshallscottw1 wrote:Hello,
I found a killer deal on a 2016 Honda PCX WW150 2 weeks ago. $3,400 bike for $1,100. Like new condition. Runs perfectly.
Until a recent trip on a Highway. I read and hear about my model going 73mph, the seller said 65-70mph. Mind you, this man and his son were huge. 300-350lbs. I'm 175 lbs. It does not exceed 55 for me. Anyway, so I checked the oil, found it to be very low. So I added some. I
I was driving 55mph full throttle then all of a sudden I feel and see the bike lose power. It went from 55 to 50 maybe 48. After a mile or so it would pick back up and do fine. By the time i got to my destination I'd lost power 4 times and as I was parking, the overheating light came on and I smelled what seemed to be plastic. I looked it over and found no melt spots or smoke.
Also, when i first get on my bike and start it then begin to ride, theres an odd shudder or unstable shaky feeling from 0 to 10 or 15mph..
These things are pretty bulletproof unless you run them hard while low on oil or coolant.
EFI is faultless 99% of the time (including all the sensors involved) - so thinking only >> running many miles very low on oil or coolant has ruined the internals - or belt is shot.
Take-off judder is near/normal due to glazed clutch pads.... or shot belt ….a problem much less serious than the engine over-heating on an bike of unknown service history.
Yes, top up oil and coolant - then pull belt cover and inspect and hope problem lies in there.
If not , then dealer visit is necessary. (look at dip stick before buying any used vehicle!)
Fish
Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
"Killer deal" and $ indicates the OP is almost certainly in the USofA in which case 2016 means it will be a 150
Four decades on two wheels has taught me nothing, all advice given is guaranteed to be wrong
- easyrider
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
Have you checked fuel filter/ fuel pump?
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
Hey, guys.
Ive read and appreciate all of the replies. I haven't had the overheating problem again yet. I noticed that the oil is dark dark brown. And that I'm not sure where on the dipstick indicates "Full" but after adding half a pint, I'm thinking that the small cross threated tip is it and ive over filled it.
Ive read and appreciate all of the replies. I haven't had the overheating problem again yet. I noticed that the oil is dark dark brown. And that I'm not sure where on the dipstick indicates "Full" but after adding half a pint, I'm thinking that the small cross threated tip is it and ive over filled it.
Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
How many miles on this scooter?Marshallscottw1 wrote:Hey, guys.
Ive read and appreciate all of the replies. I haven't had the overheating problem again yet. I noticed that the oil is dark dark brown. And that I'm not sure where on the dipstick indicates "Full" but after adding half a pint, I'm thinking that the small cross threated tip is it and ive over filled it.
Fish
- gbru2505
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
Needs to be on a really level surface when you're filling/checking the oil. You need to warm the engine up, then drain it fully and start fresh. Overfilling slightly isn't a big deal. Leaving really bad old oil in is. What's already in might be the wrong grade.
G'Bru
- Mel46
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
+1
If the oil that was already in the engine was bad or was original oil, then it would no longer be able to do its job properly. Since the bike only uses 1 quart of 10w30 oil, it would not be that difficult to change the oil. There are YouTube videos that will walk you through it. Changing the oil is the #1 best thing you can do for that engine.
If the oil that was already in the engine was bad or was original oil, then it would no longer be able to do its job properly. Since the bike only uses 1 quart of 10w30 oil, it would not be that difficult to change the oil. There are YouTube videos that will walk you through it. Changing the oil is the #1 best thing you can do for that engine.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
6,000 miles on it. The oil was blacker than Nancy Grace's soul at midnight in a blackhole on the dark side of the moon 3 days after every star and sun exploded on Black Friday.
A noticeable increase in acceleration and power. I'm interested in performance tuning. Any one know of some adjustments I can mske on it? I plan on buying a new belt and roller kit. I wish BBKs were cheaper. Also, can you adjust the forks on it to increase the front ends height? As in more tire showing, less body close to the ground.
A noticeable increase in acceleration and power. I'm interested in performance tuning. Any one know of some adjustments I can mske on it? I plan on buying a new belt and roller kit. I wish BBKs were cheaper. Also, can you adjust the forks on it to increase the front ends height? As in more tire showing, less body close to the ground.
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
TPS in the FI?alx123 wrote:I would say the TPS sensor in the FI coz I had the same problem before. But mine didn't have that burning plastic smell and the overheat light on.
Please elaborate and tell me how to check/fix if possible please.
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
fish wrote:How many miles on this scooter?Marshallscottw1 wrote:Hey, guys.
Ive read and appreciate all of the replies. I haven't had the overheating problem again yet. I noticed that the oil is dark dark brown. And that I'm not sure where on the dipstick indicates "Full" but after adding half a pint, I'm thinking that the small cross threated tip is it and ive over filled it.
Fish
6,000.
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
Yes, 153cc 2016 Honda PCX WW150. 6000 miles, 92 Octane gas, i live in Arkansas. Mainly flat terrain, climate is generally humid. Never too hot or cold. Snows once a year.Mel46 wrote:Is it a 150cc or a 125cc? What is your general location?
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
With the PCX on level ground and on the center stand, It should be within the hash marks (cross threads). If it's dark brown it needs changed now. Any synthetic 10-30 or 10-40 would be better than the dark brown old oil that's in there now. Takes about 9/10 of a US quart. Also change the final drive oil also - using the same oil. Only takes about 1/9 of a US quart. Here are Homie'a video links ....Marshallscottw1 wrote:I'm not sure where on the dipstick indicates "Full" but after adding half a pint, I'm thinking that the small cross threated tip is it and ive over filled it.
Oil change
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy301mZW9rc
Final Drive oil change
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTxkEakywI8
Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
NCY variator kit is claimed to offer improvements.Marshallscottw1 wrote:I'm interested in performance tuning. Any one know of some adjustments I can mske on it?
Other than that, waste of time, money and effort.
OEM (Bando, Mitsuboshi) is best, ALL belts other than factory original are inferior quality.Marshallscottw1 wrote:I plan on buying a new belt and roller kit.
Rollers don't roll when they're fitted, only when they're out.
Waste of money, if you want more cubes should have bought a different scooter.Marshallscottw1 wrote:I wish BBKs were cheaper.
No.Marshallscottw1 wrote:Also, can you adjust the forks on it to increase the front ends height?
As in more tire showing, less body close to the ground.
Four decades on two wheels has taught me nothing, all advice given is guaranteed to be wrong
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
If you can get this done. I would get an engine compression test done and save this data. While there, make sure the spark plug is in good order.
2nd, I would change the oil and filter.
3rd, I would change the coolant.
Then, would check the condition of the belt. I would think at 6,000 miles, it would still be sound.
If there is a fuel filter, look into replacing it.
Don't push the bike hard until you have at least changed the oil and coolant.
PO almost certainly knew something was wrong or they wouldn't have lowered the price. You need to find the issue and correct it before it turns into a bigger $ problem.
Jerry
2nd, I would change the oil and filter.
3rd, I would change the coolant.
Then, would check the condition of the belt. I would think at 6,000 miles, it would still be sound.
If there is a fuel filter, look into replacing it.
Don't push the bike hard until you have at least changed the oil and coolant.
PO almost certainly knew something was wrong or they wouldn't have lowered the price. You need to find the issue and correct it before it turns into a bigger $ problem.
Jerry
- Mel46
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Re: Losing power at 55 down to 40. Coolant full yet overheat
It is easy enough to abuse ANY bike, or vehicle for that matter. It sounds to me like that is what the previous owner did. However, the PCX is a sturdy bike, and a 6,000 miles the engine should still be sound.
You just need to undo what has been done to it. Change the oil. Run it for about 100 miles and then change the oil again. That should clear build up and crud in the oil.
Next, change the engine coolant, If You can. It shouldn't be too hard, though I have not had to do it on mine yet, so I don't know how.
You just need to undo what has been done to it. Change the oil. Run it for about 100 miles and then change the oil again. That should clear build up and crud in the oil.
Next, change the engine coolant, If You can. It shouldn't be too hard, though I have not had to do it on mine yet, so I don't know how.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
Red 2013 Honda PCX150
Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights
Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn
Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires
Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs
NCY variator, drive face, and rollers