Which clutch pads do I need/want? Should I change springs??

[grndslm]

Trying to figure out if I should just order the stock clutch pads and reuse the springs?? ... Try to find a whole new clutch disk assembly already together, like the aftermarket ones, or what??

So far I need (or maybe just want) to replace the following on my 2013...

- 23205-KWN-640 (whole clutch assembly, driven face w/ bearing already pressed in)

- 23100-KZY-701 (drive belt)

- 22535-KWN-900 (stock clutch pads? Should I replace springs, too??

- NCY VARIATOR ASSEMBLY (GOLDEN PULLEY); HONDA PCX (Scooterworks.com says they "include sliders", but doesn't give me an option at all for weight of sliders (13g), should I email them or do they already know what's up?)

- NCY DRIVE FACE (ALUMINUM); HONDA PCX


So close to ordering... Just wanna make sure everything is 110% correct, since I use my PCX every weekday to get to work. Any downtime would be detrimental to me!

Thanks!!

[grndslm]

Ahhh... It looks like this is what they're referring to as sliders... https://www.scooterworks.com/NCY-CVT-Sl ... 12415.aspx

Looks like they go between variator & ramp plate. Are these necessary, or even recommended?? Guess 3 is all that's needed? .. not 6?

[fish]

Ahhh... It looks like this is what they're referring to as sliders... https://www.scooterworks.com/NCY-CVT-Sl ... 12415.aspx

Looks like they go between variator & ramp plate. Are these necessary, or even recommended?? Guess 3 is all that's needed? .. not 6?

Yes, just 3.
Often called "slide pieces".
Fish

[grndslm]

And my first question is now my last and only question....

Should just order the stock clutch pads and reuse the springs?? ... or try to find a whole new clutch disk assembly already together, like the green aftermarket ones, or what??

[you you]

And my first question is now my last and only question....

Should just order the stock clutch pads and reuse the springs?? ... or try to find a whole new clutch disk assembly already together, like the green aftermarket ones, or what??

What what?

You dun three questions.

[grndslm]

Still one question....

"Which clutch pads do I need/want?"

[iceman]

Nothing wrong with stock parts, the bike (no matter what year) runs fine as made, if you really want to mess around and try and gain a few extra percent performance or acceleration then fine, dabble with aftermarket bits, but stock Honda parts will do you fine.
I did purchase Honda Vision style new clutch pads as they were reported to help with glazing above the heavier PCX ones, but tbh, near six years use and near 20,000 miles, I had the clutch off the bike some weeks back and the stock pads look fine and still work fine - no need to change them yet and since clearing dust out, any judder has mostly gone.

[you you]

Still one question....

"Which clutch pads do I need/want?"

I think if I was relying on the bike, like you do, I'd only use stock parts. I'd go for a complete clutch pack, replace, forget.

[gn2]

Why do you think you need clutch shoes?

[grndslm]

....but tbh, near six years use and near 20,000 miles, I had the clutch off the bike some weeks back and the stock pads look fine and still work fine - no need to change them yet and since clearing dust out, any judder has mostly gone.

Clearing out dust? I thought the glazing was caused by oils or something. . . So just rub everything with sandpaper and clean with alcohol, and no more need be said, eh??? 10,000 or more miles left, then I guess I'll save my money...

I think if I was relying on the bike, like you do, I'd only use stock parts. I'd go for a complete clutch pack, replace, forget.

Can you buy a complete STOCK clutch pack, tho? I wasn't able to find one...

Why do you think you need clutch shoes?

Because of the "juddering". I'm surprised that's a real word that Swype picked up. Learn something new every day!! Had the judder since my first test drive a few years back with only 300 miles on it. I assume that's one of the reasons they didn't ride it and wanted to get rid of it. Thought that was the 2013 signature trait.. Apply grease that belonged on the clutch bearings.. directly between clutch pads and bell housing.

[iceman]

Juddering is normally glazed pads, which I had due to gentle throttle applications which causes the problem. I've never used anywhere near full throttle start but just turn the throttle more than I used to. A few days of application of more throttle helps clear the glazing anyway.
No, I did not touch the pads, just looked at them and they are holding up fine after 20,000 miles! - but a year back I cleared 4 years worth of dust and stuff out of the housing and that did improve things - no idea why but it did.
You can buy replacement parts easy enough - just a bit of work and some tools needed to get the bits apart (clips and stuff). Again, so many tutorials showing how to do it.

[gn2]

Why do you think you need clutch shoes?

Because of the "juddering". I'm surprised that's a real word that Swype picked up. Learn something new every day!! Had the judder since my first test drive a few years back with only 300 miles on it. I assume that's one of the reasons they didn't ride it and wanted to get rid of it. Thought that was the 2013 signature trait.. Apply grease that belonged on the clutch bearings.. directly between clutch pads and bell housing.

Juddering on takeoff is highly likely to be glazing on the pads, easily fixed with some wet and dry.

I assume the bit about grease on the pads is a joke?

[you you]

Use full throttle with the brakes on. Slowly release the brakes. Repeat half a dozen times.

[grndslm]

What the heck is "some wet and dry"? And yes, gn2... That was a clearly failed attempt at a joke.

I'm gonna be changing the variator, rollers, and belt, so I'd rather just change the clutch and/or clutch bell while I'm in there if it will COMPLETELY stop the vibrations for a few years....

[grndslm]

BTW.... This guy...

https://m.facebook.com/groups/855220961 ... 2187178925

... mentions that the NMax clutch is plug and play, but it's a thicker and longer surface on the friction area. Another person in the thread mentions that The NMax pads didn't stop the vibrations, however, he found a Japanese clutch and clutch bell that DID stop the vibrations. Likely just because it was a new clutch bell that didn't have the old dust in there.

I'm still confused as to how my bike had enough dust after just 300 miles of use (probly less) to cause the vibrations. Sounds like there's a weak point somewhere to me...

[grndslm]

Soo.... The guy in that Facebook page who ordered a Japanese clutch and bell that DID stop the vibration during accel says he bought THIS --> https://japan.webike.net/products/21827 ... mer-review

It's now outta stock. Imagine that. Seems like Demand > Supply. :-)

But the interesting thing about that clutch bell is that the inside of it looks like a rough surface, similar to the clutch pads themselves. Blows my mind that more clutch bells aren't designed like that. Why would you want a smooth (low friction coefficient) face on any of your clutch mating surfaces?!?

I also just realized that any ol' clutch/bell that's advertised as GY6, or virtually any 125 or 150 cc CVT transmission is compatible... with the PCX150. And since this whole clutch assembly (bearing, pulley, spring, clutch pack, & clutch bell) is only $37 shipped to my door in 2 days... and made in China with ROUGH surfaces.... if this could be an improvement over stock Japanese SMOOTH quality?? Hmmm....

Wonder if I could spray some kinda rough sandpaper-like surface inside the stock clutch bell, similar to that $200 [after shipping] "Hyper Rev Clutch". Don't think the stock clutch pads/pack are the problem.... Don't think the contra spring or clutch pack springs should really be changed if using 13 gram rollers... Either altering the stock clutch bell to make it rougher, or simply replacing it with something like this aftermarket Naraku clutch bell might solve my vibration issue for good. I can't really tell how rough the inner surface is of this last clutch bell, but if I had to guess, it'd probly be better than 99% of the other options (not to mention cheaper and faster to receive).

[you you]

Use full throttle with the brakes on. Slowly release the brakes. Repeat half a dozen times

[gn2]

What the heck is "some wet and dry"? And yes, gn2... That was a clearly failed attempt at a joke.

I'm gonna be changing the variator, rollers, and belt, so I'd rather just change the clutch and/or clutch bell while I'm in there if it will COMPLETELY stop the vibrations for a few years....

If you don't know what wet and dry is, should you be doing transmission surgery?

[grndslm]

Will try that today, youyou...


gn2, I wouldn't really equate CVT upgrades with transmission surgery. Especially not when I can find a billion videos on YouTube how to do it. Searching for "some wet and dry" is still leaving my scratching my head, tho...

[gn2]

Lots of videos on the how certainly, but very little on the why.
https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sou ... and+dry%22