Belt grinding issue

[alx123]

So I changed my clutch set lately as the bearing is starting to make a sound. Bought an aftermarket one instead of the OEM, silly me. The clutch pad that came with the set is not good so I changed it into a much better pads to avoid the clutch shudder problem. With that, the new clutch ran smooth, not a hint of shuddering.

I opened it today to see how the drive parts are doing, and to my surprise, I see dust of black soot everywhere. I know it's my belt being grinded but not sure which part of the new clutch is causing it. Tried running the engine and see how it is but everything seems to be working fine. Smooth, no grinding sound, seems all fine to me.

Checking the belt, it seems fine. I can't even pinpoint which part is being grinded.

Who has any idea what's going on here? Remember, I only changed the clutch set, so the belt is not really new but it's not that old either ( 5k kms).

Should I be worried and buy an OEM clutch set instead?

Maybe I should clean it for now and see how it is after another 100 kms, maybe the belt is just setting in for the new clutch?

Inputs will be appreciated.

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[mymitzi]

Think OEM parts are best.........I'd swap it out.... if it was mine [assembly with bearings already installed] Only about $30.00+ USA.
Should be cheaper in Thailand. Agree the belt looks good but thinking you could get that pretty cheap also.[oem] Good luck.

[alx123]

Think OEM parts are best.........I'd swap it out.... if it was mine [assembly with bearings already installed] Only about $30.00+ USA.
Should be cheaper in Thailand. Agree the belt looks good but thinking you could get that pretty cheap also.[oem] Good luck.

Hi, thanks. Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too, replace the clutch set and the belt with OEM.

I decided to open the clutch today and compare it with the original I replaced.

It seem that the OEM has more space to accommodate the belt during higher speed (see photo)

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below is the aftermarket one im currently using and as you can see there is no sunken space like the OEM one above..

so I'm guessing it's slightly pinching the belt at higher speeds..(you can even see some black soot of rubber in the photo below

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My plan now is to either buy a new OEM one or try to swap the bearings between these two and use my old OEM instead.

Let's see what happens as it started to get dark here and I decided to take a break..

[mymitzi]

Swapping the bearings will save you $$ as long as you have the means/tools to install them. Looked again at the price of the
assembly with bearings installed...........a bit over $40.00 [us] Don't forget to add the required grease in the bearings.
Think your plans will solve the issue.

[Inoplanetyanin]

Yes, the belt seems to be wearing at an unhealthy rate if the area was clean when you recently installed it.
I wouldn't know what exactly has changed, but I assume the shape or the distance of the cones... or maybe the stifness of clutch springs.
Whenever aftermarket parts are used in the engine and drive train, there are always unintended consequences. I would not use aftermarket either...

[you you]

Aftermarket parts are a bit of a lottery.

At least with OEM it will be of the same quality as the original.

[gn2]

My plan now is to either buy a new OEM one or try to swap the bearings between these two and use my old OEM instead.

New OEM everything.
Don't attempt to re-use the bearings, you'll probably damage them removing and re-installing.

[you you]

My plan now is to either buy a new OEM one or try to swap the bearings between these two and use my old OEM instead.

New OEM everything.
Don't attempt to re-use the bearings, you'll probably damage them removing and re-installing.

This.

[Gil]

"My plan now is to either buy a new OEM one or try to swap the bearings between these two and use my old OEM instead."

You could also just buy the OEM bearings, they are quite cheap.

[alx123]

@Gil

I can't seem to find them anywhere here, the shops sells the driven face instead (see photo). This is better than buying the entire clutch set.

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@Youyou, Gn2

That seems to be the case. Taking these bearings out seems harder than it looks, especially without the right tools. Iv'e tried and failed, so I don't want to push it harder and damage the bearings as you've said.

I think I should buy a new OEM driven face instead.

[Old Grinner]

Item 8 on parts list . . . less than $40 U.S. plus tax and they ship international just as an FYI. Shipping costs vary of course.

Maybe just consider restoring to OEM as mentioned previously. Item 9 is the movable face.

https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/20 ... #sch939904

[alx123]

Update:

My OEM parts arrived today; Movable face(US $31), Belt (US $11).

The OEM face came with a pack of grease and an instruction that says I should put around 6 grams of grease on the bearings and inside the tube using the hole on the sides.

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After putting some grease, I immediately installed it and changed the belt. The old belt still looks okay and will serve as my reserve. Now my drive parts are mostly OEM, except for the rollers and the clutch pads (OEM pads suck).

With this I've learned that when it comes to important parts, OEM is the best. I also realized that every time I open my drive parts for cleaning and maintenance,I should also re-grease the bearings.

I've wasted some $ on a bad aftermarket clutch but I've learned how to disassemble and maintain the clutch. I'll take that as a win.

[iceman]

Ebay belts, those sold showing the red Honda label or kevla this or that are rubbish - I ordered one and when it arrived the middle 'white' band was in-even along it's length - some recessed and some sticking out - you can even see that in many of the Ebay photo's! It was even a but longer than it should have been.

Never fitted it, ordered one from a dealer as it was not in stock but next day collection, perfect, no odd bits sticking out and correct size and only £40 compared to £30+delivery for the fake - learnt my lesson there. I wish we could but a Honda original belt for $11 !

The driven face is something you do not want to purchase in the UK off the web or dealers as often it's up to £110+vat! whereas you can purchase it for $30ish + shipping from over-seas (even with that and duty still a lot cheaper)

[you you]

Update:

My OEM parts arrived today; Movable face(US $31), Belt (US $11).

The OEM face came with a pack of grease and an instruction that says I should put around 6 grams of grease on the bearings and inside the tube using the hole on the sides.

rsz_1rsz_1img20200528173914.jpg

rsz_1img20200528174439.jpg

After putting some grease, I immediately installed it and changed the belt. The old belt still looks okay and will serve as my reserve. Now my drive parts are mostly OEM, except for the rollers and the clutch pads (OEM pads suck).

With this I've learned that when it comes to important parts, OEM is the best. I also realized that every time I open my drive parts for cleaning and maintenance,I should also re-grease the bearings.

I've wasted some $ on a bad aftermarket clutch but I've learned how to disassemble and maintain the clutch. I'll take that as a win.

All is well that ends well

[alx123]

The tools I used to open the variator and clutch.

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8mm wrench to remove the cover, torque wrench (size 19mm - 36 lbs torque for clutch, size 22mm-42 lbs torque for the variator), clutch tool, 39mm wrench for the disassembling the clutch.