Oil change short story

OriginalRocket · Post by **OriginalRocket** » Fri Apr 05, 2013 7:52 pm

I was bored today. Waiting for the delivery of my new lawn tractor, figured I'd change the scooter oil for this riding season.
I changed the oil of the PCX 125 before I put it in storage with mobil 1 10w-30 extended protection car oil.

I was reading the manual, and Honda recommended a MB rated motorcycle oil. I have been reading up on the difference's of motorcycle vs car oil. Seems anti-wear additives are increased in motorcycle oil, as well as a heavier dose of anti-foaming additive(s).

With time to kill I used the 1 left over quart of Amzoil 10w-30 motorcycle oil from my NC700X oil change over the winter. I was going to use a quart of Mobil 1 4t racing 10w-40, but I wanted maximum MPG's from my commuter. So I stayed with a 30weight oil this time.

I'll probably run this oil out for the full 2500 mile recommended interval. By that time I will need a new rear tire. And that is a whole new issue. Might try the Michelin Scooter city tires http://www.michelinmotorcycle.com/index ... =CityGrip

SmellyTofu · Post by **SmellyTofu** » Sat Apr 06, 2013 1:52 am

How do you pour the oil in? Do you use a funnel or an old water bottle with the top cut out?

I found after not finding the oil in stock and that every store telling me I can use the normal MC oil, I'm going to go with my left over Mobil 1 5W-30 after 1000km coz it seems any old oil will do.

OriginalRocket · Post by **OriginalRocket** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 6:25 am

The difference from traditional motorcycles, is the clutch is not in oil, it is a dry clutch system. Plus the transmission (cvt belt drive) is also not in oil. Thus many people feel they can get away with automotive oil. And I ran auto oil for 5700 miles.

The cavet is Honda recommends a MB motorcycle oil. The reason? I don't know. Maybe the high rpm and oil pathway design?

The PCX ran fine for me, but since I had the correct weight oil I thought I'd give it a try. Usually mc oil has higher levels of anti wear additives and anti foaming additives.

Who knows. Just my story.

SmellyTofu · Post by **SmellyTofu** » Sun Apr 07, 2013 10:40 pm

I did try to get the Honda's HP4M oil although they seem to be out of stock of them. I still have time before the 1000km is up anyway (800 now) but I just want the stuff handy so when the time comes, I can just drop the oil there and then.

maddiedog · Post by **maddiedog** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 9:22 am

Make sure you don't use high efficiency oil though, it could cause extra wear.

I agree -- motorcycle oil likely isn't necessary because of the dry clutch, but it never hurts to use it anyways.

The oil change interval on the PCX is 5000 miles -- use synthetic if you wait that long, conventional will gunk up by then.

Alibally · Post by **Alibally** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:50 am

maddiedog wrote:Make sure you don't use high efficiency oil though, it could cause extra wear.

I agree -- motorcycle oil likely isn't necessary because of the dry clutch, but it never hurts to use it anyways.

The oil change interval on the PCX is 5000 miles -- use synthetic if you wait that long, conventional will gunk up by then.

I thought it is 2500 miles ??

gn2 · Post by **gn2** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:21 pm

Nope, oil change interval is definitely 5000 miles.

maddiedog · Post by **maddiedog** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:38 pm

Alibally, you're probably thinking of valve adjustments (which is 2500 miles [which is ridiculous because you adjust valves 2x the amount you change oil]).

Maintenance intervals here, for reference: http://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=323

Alibally · Post by **Alibally** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 1:59 pm

Your quite right. I assumed that it would get done at every 2500 service, not every other service.

you you · Post by **you you** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:07 pm

Seems a bit rubbish as my new car has a 20k oil change schedule. 60k!!! If you take it easy

SmellyTofu · Post by **SmellyTofu** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:14 pm

It is ridiculous that valves needs to be checked more often than an oil change. If that was the case, why wouldn't/couldn't you design valves that don't require adjustment checks??

you you · Post by **you you** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:33 pm

SmellyTofu wrote:It is ridiculous that valves needs to be checked more often than an oil change. If that was the case, why wouldn't/couldn't you design valves that don't require adjustment checks??

Youre
missing the point. They don't need checking that often. Every 10k miles would be my interval, unless they got noisey

SmellyTofu · Post by **SmellyTofu** » Mon Apr 08, 2013 7:38 pm

I'm just referring to what Honda says to do as opposed to what actually happens. Invariably the plastic panels that needs to be removed so frequently would be prone to breaking

OriginalRocket · Post by **OriginalRocket** » Wed Apr 10, 2013 7:18 pm

Ah yeah sorry you are correct oil is changed 5000 per the manual. But that is 5000 miles on an engine that spins 9500 rpm with unfiltered oil totalling just 1 quart. Ive got it in my head to change the oil every 2500 miles as per the valve schedule.

And the valves I checked at 600 and 3000. From here on out they will get serviced every 10000 miles.

jasontheparamedic · Post by **jasontheparamedic** » Wed Apr 10, 2013 9:25 pm

Unless your enine isn't runnin correctly and you are having loss of power than I wouldn't get the valve adjustment done either. It is quite expensive and can eliminate the fuel savings compared to driving a fuel-efficient car.

OriginalRocket · Post by **OriginalRocket** » Wed Apr 10, 2013 11:53 pm

Follow the step by step instructions on here and save your self huge amounts of money.

SmellyTofu · Post by **SmellyTofu** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 1:16 pm

jasontheparamedic wrote:Unless your enine isn't runnin correctly and you are having loss of power than I wouldn't get the valve adjustment done either. It is quite expensive and can eliminate the fuel savings compared to driving a fuel-efficient car.

I was going to DIY the valve check job since I have dismantled the panels before. The extra work to open the covers and using the feeler gauge isn't hard.

cessna151 · Post by **cessna151** » Thu Apr 11, 2013 4:01 pm

jasontheparamedic wrote:Unless your enine isn't runnin correctly and you are having loss of power than I wouldn't get the valve adjustment done either. It is quite expensive and can eliminate the fuel savings compared to driving a fuel-efficient car.

After watching some youtube videos i decided to adjust the valves myself. I never adjusted a valve on any engine before and the only thing i needed was a feeler gauge which i bought at the local hardware store for $4. It was pretty easy and straightforward as smellytofu suggests.

valuesynthetics · Post by **valuesynthetics** » Fri Apr 12, 2013 8:21 am

Let's not forget that oil also has a time limit for replacement. = 12 months or 5k miles (2.5k my preference) whichever comes first.

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