Removing body panels :-0
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How to remove PCX body panels
Hi, ya'll. Does anyone have any tips on how to properly remove the body panels on the PCX? I have the maintenance manual, but it only describes the order in which they need to be removed, but they do not say "carefully pry here," or "lift at this point." Which leads to a second question: Do all the body panels need to be removed to access the engine for, say, valve adjustment, etc.? Thanks so much for any feedback! Walter
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How to remove PCX body panels
Hi, ya'll. Does anyone have any tips on how to properly remove the body panels on the PCX? I have the maintenance manual, but it only describes the order in which they need to be removed, but they do not say "carefully pry here," or "lift at this point." Which leads to a second question: Do all the body panels need to be removed to access the engine for, say, valve adjustment, etc.? Thanks so much for any feedback! Walter
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Re: How to remove PCX body panels
most of the body panels are very easy to remove, just time consuming. they are suprisingly flexible in parts but do be careful. I recommend buying some plastic body panel tools as it makes the prying part easier. The service manual is very straightforward as far as what action to use to remove the panels, some of them do require a good tug or twist. I've removed all the body panels a few times now and have only cracked one.
- Indyglow
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Re: How to remove PCX body panels
The plastic breaks very easily when it is cold. I took my PCX to the dealership for the first service in December when it is pretty cold here in Indiana. While they were removing one of the panels they cracked it. (They ordered a new one and I brought the bike into the house to install it) If you look around in the HOW TO section on this board, you will find lots of pictures showing how to remove various plastic bits from the PCX.
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Re: How to remove PCX body panels
Indyglow wrote:The plastic breaks very easily when it is cold. I took my PCX to the dealership for the first service in December when it is pretty cold here in Indiana. While they were removing one of the panels they cracked it. (They ordered a new one and I brought the bike into the house to install it) If you look around in the HOW TO section on this board, you will find lots of pictures showing how to remove various plastic bits from the PCX.
That's not a bad tip. I'll warm the garage before removing any panels, or use a hot air gun
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Removing body panels :-0
Does anyone have any tips on how to go about removing the PCX body panels? I have the shop manual, but it does not specifically advise how to access the tabs, screws, or bolts. It does show their locations but no info about "attacking" the removal. It also seems to imply that you have to remove most or all of them to do engine maintenance...is that true? I'm beginning to think I should have bought another scooter! Thanks.
Re: Removing body panels :-0
Maybe this helps for some of the panels?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4B5fEOb6uck
Not always easy to see when you have to use force and when there is a risk of breaking something...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4B5fEOb6uck
Not always easy to see when you have to use force and when there is a risk of breaking something...
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Re: Removing body panels :-0
For what maintenance? It's fairly straightforward, especially with a shop manual.
Currently ride: Nothing right now - mostly mountain biking with my boys until they're old enough to ride
Previously rides: 2011 Honda PCX 125, 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (tons of mods - takegawa 170cc big bore kit, gears, etc), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes

Previously rides: 2011 Honda PCX 125, 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (tons of mods - takegawa 170cc big bore kit, gears, etc), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes
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Re: Removing body panels :-0
I merged the THREE duplicate threads you made into here and put them in the Technical Help subforum, not the How-To subforum (per the How-To guidelines here).
Please do not make duplicate threads. It's annoying, and will get you help even slower. Bump your old threads if they're stale, don't make new ones.
Please do not make duplicate threads. It's annoying, and will get you help even slower. Bump your old threads if they're stale, don't make new ones.
Currently ride: Nothing right now - mostly mountain biking with my boys until they're old enough to ride
Previously rides: 2011 Honda PCX 125, 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (tons of mods - takegawa 170cc big bore kit, gears, etc), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes

Previously rides: 2011 Honda PCX 125, 2005 V-Strom DL650, 1974 Vespa Ciao, 2011 Honda PCX 170 (tons of mods - takegawa 170cc big bore kit, gears, etc), 1996 Honda Nighthawk 250, 1987 Honda Spree, 2000 KTM 125SX, 2003 Honda Silverwing, 2007 Genuine Buddy 125, 1998 Honda PC800, 2008 Buddy 125 (white), 2008 Buddy 125 (red), 2001 Honda Reflex, 1987 Honda Elite, 1988 Honda Spree, 2007 Yamaha Vino, 2007 Honda Metro, 2x 125cc pure-chinesium dirt bikes
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Re: Removing body panels :-0
If your REALLY careful you can remove the seat, under seat storage, and battery box to complete the valve adjustment. The trickiest point is the two bolts that hold down the sides of the battery box as you need to "flex" the panels at their most narrow point just behind the fuel cap access cover. In doing this you are obviously taking a risk of breaking things. There is no need to flex things to a point of breaking however there is flexing needed to use this method.
Th s is my personal method for valve adjustment.
1. Remove seat
2. Disconnect and remove the battery.
3. Remove the rear grab handle cover and the grab bar itself.
4. Remove the six bolts that hold the under seat storage box in place and CAREFULLY and SLOWLY flex the plastic on the rear section of the storage box out and pop the corner of the box up and over it one side at a time.
5. Remove the storage box.
6. Again carefully and slowly flex the plastic as needed to get your 10mm 1/4 drive shallow socket in place to remove the side hold down bolts for the battery box. A universal joint is needed however a socket with the universal built in will reduce the flexing of your body panels to a minimum. There is also a drain tube on the front left bottom corner sticking out the side of the battery box. You will need to remove this from the battery box side.
7. Remove the battery box / lay this over the front of the compartment (on top of the fuel cap door)
8. Remove your fuel line from the injector
9. Unplug the connector on the right side of the engine that covers the vacuum line bracket bolt.
10. Remove the vacuum line from the valve cover and any other lines in the way.
11. Remove the valve cover and preform your valve adjustment.
I have a PCX 150 and I realize that the bracket I remove in step 9 is not on some 125s. Again this is my personal method, use at your own risk. I leave all the body plastics in place and this was my second time doing a valve adjustment in this bike. I was able to complete this from start to finish in about one hour and twenty minutes including removing some of the old honda bond ht sealant from the valve cover gasket.
Hope this helps everyone.
Th s is my personal method for valve adjustment.
1. Remove seat
2. Disconnect and remove the battery.
3. Remove the rear grab handle cover and the grab bar itself.
4. Remove the six bolts that hold the under seat storage box in place and CAREFULLY and SLOWLY flex the plastic on the rear section of the storage box out and pop the corner of the box up and over it one side at a time.
5. Remove the storage box.
6. Again carefully and slowly flex the plastic as needed to get your 10mm 1/4 drive shallow socket in place to remove the side hold down bolts for the battery box. A universal joint is needed however a socket with the universal built in will reduce the flexing of your body panels to a minimum. There is also a drain tube on the front left bottom corner sticking out the side of the battery box. You will need to remove this from the battery box side.
7. Remove the battery box / lay this over the front of the compartment (on top of the fuel cap door)
8. Remove your fuel line from the injector
9. Unplug the connector on the right side of the engine that covers the vacuum line bracket bolt.
10. Remove the vacuum line from the valve cover and any other lines in the way.
11. Remove the valve cover and preform your valve adjustment.
I have a PCX 150 and I realize that the bracket I remove in step 9 is not on some 125s. Again this is my personal method, use at your own risk. I leave all the body plastics in place and this was my second time doing a valve adjustment in this bike. I was able to complete this from start to finish in about one hour and twenty minutes including removing some of the old honda bond ht sealant from the valve cover gasket.
Hope this helps everyone.
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Re: Removing body panels :-0
Maddiedog we may want to move my previous post to the how to section under quick valve adjustment.
Re: Removing body panels :-0
If you have the service manual and still can't figure it out, then don't mess with it. Removing the panels is mainly for inspection purposes only.Waltercito1947 wrote:Does anyone have any tips on how to go about removing the PCX body panels? I have the shop manual,...
Bottom line... It's a Honda! As long as you replace the "wear" items at the suggested intervals you'll get many years of riding enjoyment out of your scooter.Waltercito1947 wrote:I'm beginning to think I should have bought another scooter!

Re: Removing body panels :-0
I was forced into a fence and the front right body part cracked off. The panel where the sea?fuel cracked as well as below the right step. I ordered the parts but need to find what order to install.
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Re: Removing body panels :-0
Larryz what year is ur PCX I have taken apart 2011, 2012,2013,and 2018 models apart.
2011 White PCX
Michelin Tire City Grip Front and Rear
Aftermarket Thai Seat.
JDM Front lights and Rear Lights and Fender.
NCY Variator, And Face and 13 Dr. pulley sliders.
Rear NCY 1000 contra spring.
NCY Textured clutch bell.
Michelin Tire City Grip Front and Rear
Aftermarket Thai Seat.
JDM Front lights and Rear Lights and Fender.
NCY Variator, And Face and 13 Dr. pulley sliders.
Rear NCY 1000 contra spring.
NCY Textured clutch bell.