How-To: Install a Topbox

[Fizzy Rascal]

I thought I would post this 'How To' to help anyone thinking of fitting a top box . . .

Apologies in advance for the average quality 'phone pics.

I bought mine from Doble Motorcycles, here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Giv ... 257b968605

I chose black rather than white for the box because the white that is available is a solid white and not 'pearlescent'/'sparkly' like the white colour of the PCX and I knew/know that the mismatch in whites would really mess with my OCD. It's a shame Honda (or GIVI) don't supply colour-coded boxes like they do for the Forza.

The kit arrives all nicely packaged and contains the two metal mounting bars and all the nuts and bolts etc. required for fitting . . .






The first job is to get rid of the Italy sticker . . .

[Fizzy Rascal]

Open the seat . . . and remove the two Phillips-headed bolts that hold the rear piece of plastic bodywork on place . . .



There are instructions in the PCX Manual/Handbook (page 93 in UK version) on how to unclip the bodywork piece. You would need to do this to replace a rear bulb - I'll come back to that later.

It's a bit tricky and I spent a bit of time worrying that I was going to break the tabs as you need to be quite forceful with it - sort of pressing each 'ear' away and using your fingers to lift them.





Once you have both 'ears' free, slowly ease the panel off backwards - there's another tab at the rear - be careful not to break it . . .




Once you have the piece removed, turn it over and you will see 4 'circles' marked on the underside . . .



These need to be drilled out with a 17mm drill bit - which is a gonna be a fair sized hole.

[Fizzy Rascal]

Which brings us to DESIGN FLAW #1 . . .

The 'circles' aren't actually circular - as they're on the curves of the bodywork piece, they're slightly oval and it makes finding a 'centre point' quite difficult - it also doesn't help that the 'circles' in the pressing/moulding are bigger than 17mm. A better bet might have been for Honda to have moulded them bang on 17mm or perhaps have included a centre 'dot' . . .




After much checking and re-checking that I was happy with my 'centres', I drilled them out . . .

Which brings us to DESIGN FLAW #2 . . .

Any joiner or carpenter or metal-worker will tell you that one should always drill from the side that will be seen - as when a drill exits a piece of wood or metal it leaves 'burrs' - well, the same goes for plastic unfortunately and drilling from the underside causes the paint around the hole on the topside (the bit that's visible) to chip and flake.

In hindsight, I'd recommend doing this a different way (sadly, I didn't think of it until afterwards) . . .

Find your centre for each hole on the underside and drill through with a pilot drill bit (3mm or 5mm) - then turn the piece over and drill from the outside/topside with your 17mm bit - it will make a much cleaner job.

[Fizzy Rascal]

Once you have your four holes drilled offer up the piece back on the scooter . . . you need to check that they line up with the four captive nuts/threads below . . .



There's a tab at the very rear of the scooter that holds the rear of the piece, this needs to be located first before clipping the piece back in place . . .








Then place the metal mounting brackets through the holes and use the supplies Allen-headed bolts to fix in place . . .

[Fizzy Rascal]

Once the brackets are firmly in place it is time to fit the plastic 'honeycomb' base plate/rack. This is supplied with four nuts and bolts that locate through the metal brackets and square(ish) slotted spring plates/washers are supplied to allow for final adjustments . . .







Once you have all four bolts 'hand tight' use the tab at the back of the rack to align with the centre of the rear light to make sure everything is square before finally tightening.



The 'honeycomb' section is hidden with a top plate that has locating tabs and is affixed with two tiny self-tapping screws. This is very nice as it means one could just use it as a rack (without the box) on trips where the full box isn't required.



Finally, just snap the box into place using the tab and lock mechanism. There's a red 'button' at the back of the box to release it. The box also has a carrying handle incorporated into the design, so you could/can remove it and carry it into your office (or wherever) rather than leaving it on the scooter.



Anyway, hope this helps someone.


One last point, it dawned on me after fitting this, should I ever need to change a rear bulb - I'm gonna have to dismantle all that ^ to remove that bodywork panel to gain access to the rear light/lens.

[iceman]

Tape on the 'good' side of the plastic may help reduce any burring when drilling the pilot holes, although if a small enough started drill is used there should not be too much burring.

[GeezyRider]

I used a step drill which makes a nice clean hole with no burrs. Harbor Freight sells them for about $5.00 and they are worth every penny.

[Fizzy Rascal]

I still think it would be better to drill from the outside/side that shows.

[hatari]

my rear carrier esperience was much less dramatic...

arrived at honda garage...

had cup of coffee while they fitted...

handed over 10 GBP...

drove home...

[Fizzy Rascal]

my rear carrier esperience was much less dramatic...

arrived at honda garage...

had cup of coffee while they fitted...

handed over 10 GBP...

drove home...

[hatari]

my rear carrier esperience was much less dramatic...

arrived at honda garage...

had cup of coffee while they fitted...

handed over 10 GBP...

drove home...

yes was funny wasn't it....

Givi 35L top box arrived next day by mail order....70 GBP........

[emc]

Which toolbox would you go for: givi, Shad or original Honda?

[Mel46]

I drilled a starter hole from the underside, and then used a spade bit on the good side. Doing it the other way will cause burrs that have paint chips in them. Also, and this is important, hand screw the bolts in as far as you can before using the hex head tool. They cross thread quite easily.
As for changing the bulb, I have taken my bike apart so often that removing the topbox is simple. Practice, practice, practice.

[you you]

I drilled a starter hole from the underside, and then used a spade bit on the good side. Doing it the other way will cause burrs that have paint chips in them. Also, and this is important, hand screw the bolts in as far as you can before using the hex head tool. They cross thread quite easily.
As for changing the bulb, I have taken my bike apart so often that removing the topbox is simple. Practice, practice, practice.

That's a good tip about the spade bit. I would have started from the other side.

[gn2]

Which toolbox would you go for: givi, Shad or original Honda?

Shad every time.

Or Givi.

But definitely never original Honda because it is made by Shad and has very expensive Honda stickers on.

[Mel46]

Yes, and I have heard that those decals fail after awhile, especially if you crash. :-)
You might consider seat belting them on.

I have also noticed that that their quality isn't up to Honda standards.

[J.Cervera]

It's a pity not being able to see the pictures

[WhiteNoise]

Yes it is, but we have other "photo" how-to's to get this done! Take a look, did you see this how-to?
https://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=947

Your year bike and the one in video are same set-up. Go for it and please show us later!
Cheers and welcome aboard!