WhiteNoise wrote:^ Thanks for your input Dave. The more helpful info, the better
>> This is to member Gossamer, who shared with us "his home made oil change kit" back on page 4 of this thread. Great photos too.
If you're reading this Gossamer, (I'm hoping you are) I'd like to thank you for your ideas, because I put them to use today! That's right, I set me up a kit like yours (minus the plastic bottle and hose) and got my Oil change done with No mess! (Maybe a drop or two, but that was it!)
So, thank ye fellow PCX'er wherever you are!! Ride back here someday. I Tip My Hat To You
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P.S. My first time using my New Table Lift Should have bought one Sooner. Love it! So does my back!
Get a vacuum pump as your next toy, sorry, tool. Makes oil changes ridiculously easy...
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WhiteNoise wrote:Hello EddieC and thank you for sharing your "how to" with us I had my laptop nearby while doing the job.
May I just suggest that in your opening of 1, 2, 3, etc. steps, that you preface it with something like this:
protect floor if need be (i.e. corrugated cardboard or ?) Place bike on level surface, put bike on centerstand, warm up engine for several minutes, turn off bike "Before starting" the following draining process (then maybe explain why we warm her up first?)
I know a lot of us know all ^ already, but others do not, and some don't look at their manuals at all
I sure do like this section of the forum. It's nice folk like You that use their time and effort in helping the rest of us "get into it" and thus love our bikes even more! Soooo..... Cheers to You All!!
why does the engine have to warm up first? How long should the engine warm up?
you change the oil hot so the particals do not settle, and it speeds up the oil when draining I change my oil after a long ride, over 10 miles,.
Say de dee, after 10 miles? Hmm...did I read that right? Are ya missing zero's?
About the hot oil? I agree.
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WhiteNoise wrote:^ Thanks for your input Dave. The more helpful info, the better
>> This is to member Gossamer, who shared with us "his home made oil change kit" back on page 4 of this thread. Great photos too.
If you're reading this Gossamer, (I'm hoping you are) I'd like to thank you for your ideas, because I put them to use today! That's right, I set me up a kit like yours (minus the plastic bottle and hose) and got my Oil change done with No mess! (Maybe a drop or two, but that was it!)
So, thank ye fellow PCX'er wherever you are!! Ride back here someday. I Tip My Hat To You
image.jpg
P.S. My first time using my New Table Lift Should have bought one Sooner. Love it! So does my back!
Get a vacuum pump as your next toy, sorry, tool. Makes oil changes ridiculously easy...
jkautz wrote:10 miles! I usually will take mine out for a mile or two and then drain it. 10 miles!?
Haha good one! or two. Pull over! Change that oil!
Oh and yeah, crush washer 1.00 saved! Buy a Mega Millions ticket Gotta be init to winit! (So they say)
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another Noob question, I have checked the oil level in my bike and its about 25% full, i have bought some Castrol Power 1 4T 10W/40 Motorcycle Engine Oil.
Shall i just add some in to top it up, or is it better to do a full oil change? I am about 1000 miles on it as it sits and want to be sure that there is enough oil as not to cause damage, but as i have come from scooters requiring 2 stroke, i am used to just topping it up every so often.
RichyP - I just went through the exact same scenario. Checked my level and it was 25-30% full. I decided to add oil to make it full. Took it for a quick ride, then completely drained & refilled it. I can't imagine riding on a cup of oil for who knows how long, would due any good keeping it in there. Just drain & start over.
And check it on every gas fill up. That's what I'm doing now.
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2015 PCX150 Metallic Black
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another Noob question, I have checked the oil level in my bike and its about 25% full, i have bought some Castrol Power 1 4T 10W/40 Motorcycle Engine Oil.
Shall i just add some in to top it up, or is it better to do a full oil change? I am about 1000 miles on it as it sits and want to be sure that there is enough oil as not to cause damage, but as i have come from scooters requiring 2 stroke, i am used to just topping it up every so often.
Is it safe to just top it up for the time being?
What would be your thoughts? 25% full might be someone else's 75% empty.
Might be best to stop typing and put some, any oil, oil in your bike?
Don't listen to you you ^^ He's one of those smart a** internet guys you try and avoid. You'll get full plate of nothing with a side of ego. I'd just take my advice & go from there.
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2015 PCX150 Metallic Black
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WhiteNoise wrote:Bravo starkdog24 just the input I needed to read. I'm a hater of that bolt! Honda fail! Too soft is Right!! So thanks for kicking in!
Now I have questions,
1) what is the difference between an impact driver, an impact wrench and an impact drill/driver? They are confusing me online when I look for one.
2) is 18 volt enough?
3) 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2"?
4) is corded better than cordless?
5) and do you suggest any special manufacturers brand? or shape so it fits in our "oil space bolt area?"
Some of these questions may seem silly, but I'm into details (more the better for me).
Thanks again
I was trying to get my oil screen cleaned today and ran into the same 17mm bolt problem. Did you end up getting that impact wrench, White Noise? If so, was that the solution that worked for you. Gracias!
I own both corded and cordless impact guns… The corded Dewalt is obviously much more heavy duty and can pull a lug off a wheel at 100 foot pounds. Whereas the craftsman cordless one will not, but is great for tightening a lug. I think it all depends on how tight that 17 MM is for the oil screen. And a impact driver is a manual item that you hit with a hammer and it twists quickly. Much cheaper, but maybe hard to use in this particular situation.
If I could only own one , it would be the Dewalt corded unit off Amazon.I can swap wheels on the vette almost as fast as NASCAR pit crew with it.
Jge64 wrote:I own both corded and cordless impact guns… The corded Dewalt is obviously much more heavy duty and can pull a lug off a wheel at 100 foot pounds. Whereas the craftsman cordless one will not, but is great for tightening a lug. I think it all depends on how tight that 17 MM is for the oil screen. And a impact driver is a manual item that you hit with a hammer and it twists quickly. Much cheaper, but maybe hard to use in this particular situation.
If I could only own one , it would be the Dewalt corded unit off Amazon.I can swap wheels on the vette almost as fast as NASCAR pit crew with it.
I probably wouldn't use anything like this for tightening things