Final Drive oil change??

[jkautz]

I read through this, but didn't get my answer. Where do you fill the final drive oil after you drain it?

[iceman]

Thank you very much, kcpcx, for your advices, and when I change my final drive oil, I'll be very careful not to overtighten the bolts
flyingzonker, You can have a look at this "how-to" that Maddiedog posted to help those who intend to do the final drive oil change:
http://www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3224

Shows/tells you in that link which was part of this thread.

[jkautz]

So it's mentioned 10w40 is okay for final reduction?

[jkautz]

bump........................

[iceman]

I believe the answer is any good quality modern 4-stoke oil will be fine (the guide on this forum says use the oil used in the engine!) so any 10w30 / 10w40 / 5w30, etc (not 2 stroke as that leaves deposits behind in 4-stroke engines). It does not need to be MB, does not need to be ProHonda this / Moly that.
Most of the above comes from the oil recommended in the US/Canada manual which does not apply to Europe (ProHonda with Moly additive) as our manuals instead lists any good quality 4-stroke engine oil for the same bikes (although MB is mentioned). You cannot easily get Honda oil with Moly in Europe (if you find a website listing it then the ones I come across also say not available!) nor often MB rated oil from dealers. Indeed, if you search the net, people say Honda even started withdrawing Moly from some of it's oils some years back as there were some issues.

And as discussed to length on this forum, the owners / service manual sort of contradicts itself when it mentions MB rated oil and clutch health as in the PCX the oil should never touch the clutch as it's dry. Even then, some major oil manufacturers websites say there has not really been any issues with MA rated synthetic oil and clutch slipping in 'proper bikes'. It can happen but rarely does i.e.
'It isn't even half true. Synthetic oil is no slippy'er than petroleum unless the base has been modified to be that way. Oils labeled API Energy Conserving II (ECII) MIGHT cause a clutch to slip because of the frictiom modifiers they contain, but they won't necessarily do that. Since virtually all ECII oils are synthetic, people with a poor grasp of logic equate synthetics with clutch trouble.
Any oil of any kind that carries labeling stating that it conforms to JASO MA or MA1/MA2 will absolutely not cause clutch slippage; that's what MA means. Any number of good synthetic motorcycle oils carry this certification. I have used nothing but Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle oil or Mobil 1 Racing 4T for so long I forget when I even started, never any clutch or trans trouble.
Occasionally, you will run across a clutch that "doesn't like" a particular oil to the extent that it makes it drag or grab or some such, but in theses cases, the clutch usually has a problem, not the oil.'

[jkautz]

Thanks for the well written reply iceman. So I shouldn't have any issues with 10w40 full syn in the final drive it sounds. Though it's hard to get a lot of replies on this forum. I think I've gotten some peace of mind running 10w40 in the oil & final drive now.

[maddiedog]

So it's mentioned 10w40 is okay for final reduction?

It's OK

The manual calls for 10w30. Use that if you can.


If no one replies in one thread, please don't post in like 5 threads asking the same question. It clutters things up.

[jkautz]

Last thing I want to do is clutter threads that never get responses lol

[maddiedog]

Last thing I want to do is clutter threads that never get responses lol

A good attitude to have, assuming there is no sarcasm there.

Seriously though, don't. It'll make finding the answer easier for the next jkautz that doesn't know if he can use 10w40, and it'll save me from replying 4 times.