Is it the transmission?

[Valiant]

Resolved the issue(hopefully). The belt had no obvious signs of wear, but upon changing the belt, my stand speed went from 70 mph to 76 mph on the speedo, which still means roughly 72 mph actual top speed.

Definitely going to stay away from the KN Planning torque driver, as it doesn't seem to play well with variators that already push the belt almost against the case. I might still play around with the weights and sliders to get the rpms where I want them to be. I'll have to wait until tomorrow to take this on the highway and see what the rpms are at now.

[Branyers]

Some combinations appear to be lethal. I have had good luck with the Kitaco torque driver.

[Valiant]

Well, the KN Planning driver has longer slots cut in, allowing the belt to drop down even closer to the crank. If the belt on the front pulley side was already almost touching the crankcase, then that would push the belt out further, causing it to rub.

Granted, that might not necessarily be what happened, as I didn't observe any markings on the case to suggest it, but it would seem switching out the belts helped with the speed issue. Now I just need to run her on the highway to see if the rpms went back to where they were supposed to be.

[Alibally]

Could be tricky, I only have a 19mm and 22mm socket. I believe a 3rd size is needed to remove the nut holding the clutch to the rear pulley.

You need a 39mm for the clutch nut.
The video I saw the guy sat on a chair with the clutch in front of him. He put both feet on the edges of the clutch and used an impact gun to remove the nut. You just need to lift your feet slowly to release it. It's not really that much tension on it.

[Pcxdemon]

All you need is vice grips to undo that nut! Piece of cake..grip and lock the nut with vice grips then grab the clutch with two hands and tap the vice grips on a solid object to crack the nut loose. Place the clutch under your feet/tows and undo the nut while pressing the clutch down. Slowly release it while holding it together with your hand from the top. Reverse the procedure with fitting it back on. Another tip, the nut is already marked with a marker at it's torqued position, if it's been wiped, use a marker before you undo it so when you tighten it back up you know where to stop..

[Valiant]

Could be tricky, I only have a 19mm and 22mm socket. I believe a 3rd size is needed to remove the nut holding the clutch to the rear pulley.

You need a 39mm for the clutch nut.
The video I saw the guy sat on a chair with the clutch in front of him. He put both feet on the edges of the clutch and used an impact gun to remove the nut. You just need to lift your feet slowly to release it. It's not really that much tension on it.

Odd size, definitely not stocked at my local hardware stores.

Changing the belt only resolved the issue for one run. On my way back(about 5 miles out), I ran into the same problem, but maybe a bit worse with the speed capping out at 60-62 mph. I'll pop the trans open again, but I don't expect to find any clues.

At this point I figure even a $500 GY6 would give me less mechanical headaches than what I have now.

[Alibally]

I got a 1/2 inch drive Toyota rear hub nut socket as its 39mm. You can get a clutch locking tool with the 39mm spanner built in for about £15 ish online.




http://www.amazon.co.uk/101-Octane-clut ... B00ANLBSBQ

[Alibally]

http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?c ... &item=4222

[Valiant]

Ironically enough, I used the variator holding tool to hold the clutch bell O.o

After another crack at it, I noticed the back of the variator plate was sticking to the variator at the sliders(the 3 plastic pieces). After noting that the Yuminashi back plate seems to have more clearance, I put that combination with the NCY vario(seems cleaner) and got about 74 mph on the stand. Slightly less than the Daytona, but I'll go with it to be rid of this problem.

Should be doing my next run in a few minutes to see how that works out.

In other news, while I was working on the trans, I noticed a part dangling off of the engine:


I believe that's a clamp for the throttle cable.


It's funny, my brother knows the co-owner of the scooter shop who did the 175cc BBK install. She sent him a pretty pissed off text because I noted a screw was missing from a fairing panel near the seat, stating that "he makes it sound like it's our fault". I certainly didn't screw with it, and I didn't ask anyone else to either. And my concern has more to do with missing a vital bolt or screw that holds the engine together, as I didn't want to blow up while riding on it.

I would say that concern is very well justified, as only one shop ever touched the engine on the PCX, and I doubt the bolts just upped and walked away on their own.

It just reinforces my feelings on performance mods:
If you can't do it yourself, don't freaking do it.

[tbln930]

I have had several cars where the mechanics left seemingly unrelated bolts untightened. I rented an airplane that just had it's annual and there were untightened bolts inside the front of the cowling on my pre-flight. I thought about cancelling the flight and of course re-inspected it thoroughly.

[fun2scoot]

After noting that the Yuminashi back plate seems to have more clearance...

Yuminashi does not supply a back plate with that vario - unless Hawaii is different....
That should be the OEM Honda backplate.

[Valiant]

Doubtful. I know I didn't get one from NCY or Daytona, but I have two.

In any event, one of the longer bolts in the trans case(the center one) vibrated out and dropped off at some point.

I think all devout Christians would be envious at how much attention Sky Daddy is giving me at fucking with me at every available opportunity.

[Valiant]

Okay, there's something definitely catastrophically broken with my PCX.

I put the old stock 18g rollers back in there with the NCY variator. No change, and pulling rpms are at 8900, which would suggest that the transmission isn't shifting at all.

Sky Daddy, at it again.

[Pcxdemon]

Can you put it all back stock in the trans area?

[Valiant]

Not yet. If I decide to do that, I'd need to place an order for the 39mm socket and wait about a week for it to ship here before I can do anything. That being said, if that still doesn't work, then what could possibly be causing the problem?

There's no glazing on the clutch bell, no unusual sounds when running it with the case open, no signs of the belt rubbing against the case, nothing obvious that would prevent the variator from sliding open, no signs of wear on the belt.

My only other assumption is that either the center spring is causing issues, or it's a problem with the rear pulley assembly. To be perfectly honest, it was a PITA to try and compress that rear pulley with the clutch still on, so that thought might hold some weight.


I did learn two valuable lessons:
1) This kind of work requires patience.
2) I don't have a lot of patience.

[Pcxdemon]

Not yet. If I decide to do that, I'd need to place an order for the 39mm socket and wait about a week for it to ship here before I can do anything. That being said, if that still doesn't work, then what could possibly be causing the problem?

There's no glazing on the clutch bell, no unusual sounds when running it with the case open, no signs of the belt rubbing against the case, nothing obvious that would prevent the variator from sliding open, no signs of wear on the belt.

My only other assumption is that either the center spring is causing issues, or it's a problem with the rear pulley assembly. To be perfectly honest, it was a PITA to try and compress that rear pulley with the clutch still on, so that thought might hold some weight.


I did learn two valuable lessons:
1) This kind of work requires patience.
2) I don't have a lot of patience.

Lol..
What about my suggestion to remove the nut, don't need any special tools...
The thing is, when those bearings fell out and did the damage to the vario faces, who knows what else it did to the rear pulley assembly. Those wankers at the shop did a nice job on it..
At the end if the day is, you'll need new belt, new vario and outer face that's not bashed up, and disassemble the rear pulley (just take the clutch out and inspect, check the movement of the rear torque driver and remove those rings installed that were supposed to hold the bearings as it preloads your rear spring unnecessarily..) really there is nothing else that should be causing drama..

[Valiant]

I also noted that the belt seemed a bit stretched, as before I would have to struggle to get it onto the drive boss, but recently it just slipped on very easily. Could be a sign that the variator is doing its job, but the rear pulley assembly isn't opening up like it should.

[Valiant]

Right, forgot about that.

Already ordered it, so might as well wait unless I want to shell out even more money for another hunk of metal.

[fun2scoot]

Well, there are a minimum of two fundamental errors contributing to this. So, fundamentals; check the splines.
The 'shop' may have mixed conflicting parts. Lets start with belt alignment; when you pulled the vario off was there a washer behind it? If so, then you should have the shorter boss below. If not, then the longer.

[Valiant]

Stock vario also has a washer. It's not the drive boss or the variator. I did entertain the idea of using the shorter drive boss to try and help the belt ride a bit higher, but I suspect this has more to do with the rear pulley not opening up, based on the belt stretching.