Parts required to fix clutch bearing issue
Moderator: Modsquad
-
- Regular User
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 5:11 am
- Year: 2011
- Color: White
- Location: Manchester, UK
- Contact:
Re: Parts required to fix clutch bearing issue
I bought mine at between 12 and 13K miles and it sounded as though it'd been a problem for a while.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 10:42 am
- Year: 2013
- Color: red
- Location: Michigan, USA
Re: Parts required to fix clutch bearing issue
Thanks for your heads ups. I do hear roughness when I roll the tires back when the bike is on center stands but not the loud sound you seemed to have heard. And I do not hear it when riding so I think it's not a problem yet. Maybe I should take it apart and put some grease in there preemptively.
-
- Regular User
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 5:11 am
- Year: 2011
- Color: White
- Location: Manchester, UK
- Contact:
Re: Parts required to fix clutch bearing issue
Another quick update. Since the change, I rode the bike about 10 miles and emptied the tank. I then reset the odometer and brimmed it. I've done almost 40 now and the fuel gauge is yet to change from full
I thought I was getting around 70mpg before...I must be getting quite a bit more now!

I thought I was getting around 70mpg before...I must be getting quite a bit more now!
Re: Parts required to fix clutch bearing issue
You cannot measure the fuel consumption unless you have filled the tank to the brim yourself.
If your 70mpg figure is based on the fuel it came with the figure is meaningless.
If your 70mpg figure is based on the fuel it came with the figure is meaningless.
Four decades on two wheels has taught me nothing, all advice given is guaranteed to be wrong
-
- Regular User
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2016 5:11 am
- Year: 2011
- Color: White
- Location: Manchester, UK
- Contact:
Re: Parts required to fix clutch bearing issue
No, I'd run the bike over several weeks putting in around 5 litres and then doing about 80-90 miles before it needed refueling.
I'm not honestly that fussed about the actual figure, just wanted to point out that the bike is using a lot less fuel than it was prior to the fix.
I'm not honestly that fussed about the actual figure, just wanted to point out that the bike is using a lot less fuel than it was prior to the fix.
-
- New Member
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Wed Feb 24, 2016 10:42 am
- Year: 2013
- Color: red
- Location: Michigan, USA
Re: Parts required to fix clutch bearing issue
I bit the bullet and changed out the driven pulley part with the offending bearings without really noticing loud noise.
After the change I have to say I'm glad I did it:) I didn't know it was noisy while riding and that was noticed only after I changed it. Now I hear the engine more clearly as the background din is gone.
The original part had red bearing seal vs. the new part had black bearing seal, otherwise they look the same(which is good). I didn't use the yellow grease that was included with the new part, rather used high moly grease released by Honda which was grey in color.
As it's fresh in my mind let me do some brain dump on the nitty gritty of changing out the part.
* Following are tools used:
- Impact wrench with 22mm(for variator) and 39mm(for clutch) sockets
- If 39 mm socket is not available(very hard to find), you need 15 inch adjustable wrench
[I had access to 1 9/16 socket which is 39.6mm. It's hair too big:( ]
- Large vise to hold the driven pulley/clutch assembly
- 8mm and 10mm sockets + phillips #2 screwdriver for various fastners
* Order of disassembly:
- left side foot mat(pull off)
- left side lower panel(10mm bolts and phillips)
- variator cover(8mm bolts)
- transmission cover(8mm bolts)
- variator pulley(22mm nut)
- slide out the belt+clutch/driven pulley assembly
- separate belt and clamp clutch/driven pulley assembly in vise
- clamp the assembly so when the clutch nut(39mm) is unbolted the assembly doesn't spring apart as it's under tension
- with assembly apart, pull out the three pins that ride in the three grooves
- carefully slide out the sleeve covering the shaft of the driven pulley, there will be grease that drip
- take care to keep the pulley faces clean and free of oil and grease
I'll check against my notes later but above should be close:)
After the change I have to say I'm glad I did it:) I didn't know it was noisy while riding and that was noticed only after I changed it. Now I hear the engine more clearly as the background din is gone.
The original part had red bearing seal vs. the new part had black bearing seal, otherwise they look the same(which is good). I didn't use the yellow grease that was included with the new part, rather used high moly grease released by Honda which was grey in color.
As it's fresh in my mind let me do some brain dump on the nitty gritty of changing out the part.
* Following are tools used:
- Impact wrench with 22mm(for variator) and 39mm(for clutch) sockets
- If 39 mm socket is not available(very hard to find), you need 15 inch adjustable wrench
[I had access to 1 9/16 socket which is 39.6mm. It's hair too big:( ]
- Large vise to hold the driven pulley/clutch assembly
- 8mm and 10mm sockets + phillips #2 screwdriver for various fastners
* Order of disassembly:
- left side foot mat(pull off)
- left side lower panel(10mm bolts and phillips)
- variator cover(8mm bolts)
- transmission cover(8mm bolts)
- variator pulley(22mm nut)
- slide out the belt+clutch/driven pulley assembly
- separate belt and clamp clutch/driven pulley assembly in vise
- clamp the assembly so when the clutch nut(39mm) is unbolted the assembly doesn't spring apart as it's under tension
- with assembly apart, pull out the three pins that ride in the three grooves
- carefully slide out the sleeve covering the shaft of the driven pulley, there will be grease that drip
- take care to keep the pulley faces clean and free of oil and grease
I'll check against my notes later but above should be close:)