So I’ve seen a lot of posts about tires. But never a good explanation
I had ordered 120’ss for the front and was gonna do the 140’ss for the rear. But I want to know if that’s risky or not? Or should I stick to the oem size? Also has anyone changed they’re bars? And bar ends. ? Thanks
Venom_Pcx wrote:So I’ve seen a lot of posts about tires. But never a good explanation
I had ordered 120’ss for the front and was gonna do the 140’ss for the rear. But I want to know if that’s risky or not? Or should I stick to the oem size? Also has anyone changed they’re bars? And bar ends. ? Thanks
Why do you want to move from OEM size?
Bar and bar ends are no more difficult than on any other bike. A pain can be the bar end screws though due to the threadlock compound. Properly fitting screwdriver and a whack with a hammer should sort that. Or an impact tool if you have one.
Pcx? I think there was a recent thread about the new tire size on the older bikes. The new rims won't fit the older bikes, and I think someone mentioned concern about the width of the new tire at the rim on the older rims. My suggestion would be, you can try them and let us know of any problems.
Currently own:
Red 2013 Honda PCX150 Givi tall windshield & tailbox - Lots of extra lights Custom seat from Thailand - Bad Boy Airhorn Takegawa Lowering Shocks - Michelin City Grip Tires Headlight assy upgraded to LEDs w/HS5 main bulbs NCY variator, drive face, and rollers
I've never felt a need for wider tires since Michelin City Grips work very well in the stock size; however, from what I've seen of other people's experiences, you're going to have some rubbing with the sizes you've referenced. some owners have safely gone up one width size on each tire without any major adjustments, but you still may need to take off the rear splash guard.
There's some crazy wheel and tire combinations that have been done on the PCX, all of which seem to come out of southeast Asia, including what look like thin mountain bike tires. Just the same, I still think the stock size is the best choice.
Paul Smith
scootinfool.blogspot.com
Scootin' Fool on YouTube
Lancaster County Pennsylvania
2013 Honda PCX-150 (Angry Hornet) - Leo Vince Corsa Exhaust, NCY Variator (13g Rollers), NCY shocks, Givi D322S windscreen, NCY drum brake actuator arm, Denali Soundbomb mini horn
2006 Piaggio Beverly 250 (Rosa)
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WhiteNoise wrote:Welcome to our forums It's tires again. Who knew they would be in such demand. Anywho, lots to be found on the topic but when searching tires it's overwhelmed. That means a fail in finding your answer(s). Sorry, nature of the beast. Try a search in mother Google's search bar, there you'll be successful.
Now how about You do us a favor? Please take a moment to add your location to your profile. It helps us to help you now, and in the future. I have easy directions below my post to get'r done
Venom_Pcx wrote:So I’ve seen a lot of posts about tires. But never a good explanation
I had ordered 120’ss for the front and was gonna do the 140’ss for the rear. But I want to know if that’s risky or not? Or should I stick to the oem size? Also has anyone changed they’re bars? And bar ends. ? Thanks
Why do you want to move from OEM size?
Bar and bar ends are no more difficult than on any other bike. A pain can be the bar end screws though due to the threadlock compound. Properly fitting screwdriver and a whack with a hammer should sort that. Or an impact tool if you have one.
when you replace your tires ive heard theres a rubber strip that needs to be replaced to on the rim ive only been riding for 2 years and still have my original tires. I dont even know if the pcx has this rubber strip
big bear wrote:when you replace your tires ive heard theres a rubber strip that needs to be replaced to on the rim ive only been riding for 2 years and still have my original tires. I dont even know if the pcx has this rubber strip
The rubber strip is a protector for spoked wheels to prevent the inner tubes from puncturing.
The PCX uses tubeless tyres on solid cast rims so does not need it.
Four decades on two wheels has taught me nothing, all advice given is guaranteed to be wrong
Venom_Pcx wrote:So I’ve seen a lot of posts about tires. But never a good explanation
I had ordered 120’ss for the front and was gonna do the 140’ss for the rear. But I want to know if that’s risky or not? Or should I stick to the oem size? Also has anyone changed they’re bars? And bar ends. ? Thanks
I think it's risky. Increases chance of crashing and getting killed. Also insurance would make a big deal out of you modifying the original tires so they might blame you for the damages.
No need to change tire sizes. OEM will stay in place whereas oversized ones are likely to come off under certain conditions.
You have to use the tire that the rim is made for.
Venom_Pcx wrote:So I’ve seen a lot of posts about tires. But never a good explanation
I had ordered 120’ss for the front and was gonna do the 140’ss for the rear. But I want to know if that’s risky or not? Or should I stick to the oem size? Also has anyone changed they’re bars? And bar ends. ? Thanks
I think it's risky.
Unless you have experience with someone that has had this happen, Its not that big of a deal.
The tire wont come off the wheel if its inflated properly and installed correctly. I run my bike harder than most with ZERO issues. If you plan to keep the bike completely stock and rarely go over 60, stock size is fine.
Anything over that on stock size tires is much more dangerous. The stability of the bike with larger tires is night and day. Once you change the Variator 70+ is pretty easy, and stock tires at those speeds is horrible.
Venom_Pcx wrote:So I’ve seen a lot of posts about tires. But never a good explanation
I had ordered 120’ss for the front and was gonna do the 140’ss for the rear. But I want to know if that’s risky or not? Or should I stick to the oem size? Also has anyone changed they’re bars? And bar ends. ? Thanks
Why do you want to move from OEM size?
Bar and bar ends are no more difficult than on any other bike. A pain can be the bar end screws though due to the threadlock compound. Properly fitting screwdriver and a whack with a hammer should sort that. Or an impact tool if you have one.
HEAT applied to the very tip of the bar end helped it come out on my son's CB500X.
Fish
Venom_Pcx wrote:So I’ve seen a lot of posts about tires. But never a good explanation
I had ordered 120’ss for the front and was gonna do the 140’ss for the rear. But I want to know if that’s risky or not? Or should I stick to the oem size? Also has anyone changed they’re bars? And bar ends. ? Thanks
I have been running that tyre size for the last 2 years and it's one of the best changes you can make. You will need to adjust your air pressure accordingly as with more volume you need less psi. I typically run 28-30 in the rear and 25ish in the front unless I'm doing a lot of 2up riding then I add 3-5 psi. My bike handling with that and the new rear shocks is night and day better than with stock, and soooo much better for riding any long distances.
2013 PCX 150 with,
Givi Tall Screen, and E370 Top Case
NCY Variator and Face Plate, 12 gram rollers
Takagawa Silent Oval Exhaust, K&N R1100 pod filter mod
YSS XL Rear Shock Absorbers Michelin City Grip 120/70 Front 140/70 Rear
2013 Honda CB500X with Rally Raid kit
2005 Piaggio X9 500 Evolution
1982 Honda CX500 Turbo
1983 Honda Nighthawk S