Question regarding 2011 Honda pcx125

[Mike888]

Hi, I plan on doing maintenance on my scooter and would like to know how much motor oil to add. I've been getting different amount from 2 quart to 1 quart to even .8 liters.

I would also like to know how do I bleed the brake fluid. I see on the brake itself there are two areas where you can bleed.

Lastly how do I know how much tranny fluid to add when changing out the out fluid?

Thank you so much for your help

[honkerman]

Read your owner's manual. If you do not have one, you can get the PDF easily by googling it. As per the manual though, it's between .8 liters and .9 liters (just shy of a quart to a quart).

Brake fluid is easy to change as well. Get the correct grade of fluid (DoT 4 can handle more heat than Dot 3, and the cover will say which type is needed. DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT USE DOT5! No no no! It's for Harley systems and it's crap. You're not really bleeding the brakes because there should be no air in them. The reason for the two bleeder nipples is simple: Combined brakes. See the rear brake lever also operates one piston on the front caliper, while the front brake lever operates two. When both levers are pulled together, all three Pistons are used. This is why there are two brake lines on the front caliper as well. Both should have the brake fluid changed. I'll tell you what, once I can get home to look at my service manual, I can give you more info on what's what. Also, be very careful not to get any brake fluid on your rims or brake pads or on the plastics or anything painted. It will do damage.

You don't need a lot of transmission oil. The best way is, get a big syringe (a motorcycle shop will have one), open the fill hole, open the drain hole, drain the oil, close the drain hole, fill the transmission until the oil is just at the bottom of the fill hole. I can check the manual for the amount if you like.

[Mike888]

How do you know which nipple goes with which brake fluid holder. There are two nipples on it which makes it confusing.

[Mike888]

So does it mean there are two brake fluid holders. I know one is near the accelerator. Where is the second one. Also which nipple do I hook up to release the fluid near the accelerator. Thank you so much for your help

[Mike888]

My last question is how do I know if the valves are tight or loose without taking the whole bike apart.

[honkerman]

How do you know which nipple goes with which brake fluid holder. There are two nipples on it which makes it confusing.

I'd have to look in the manual to be sure. I don't feel like taking any plastics off to find the second reservoir, and I'm at work presently so I won't be able to look at the manual until I'm at home. Yes, there are two reservoirs (pretty sure), and I think the second one is behind the headlight.

You can't check the valves without taking all the plastics off the back. Homie did a great walkthrough on that a while back. It's pretty common with scooters to have a really asinine process for getting at the valves.

[honkerman]

Ok, here's the info on the final drive:

[honkerman]

Top bleeder nipple is for the main front reservoir. Lower nipple is for the CBS piston. The CBS reservoir is to the right of the ignition and trunk/fuel buttons.

I'm a bit tired, so I'm off to bed. Will be around tomorrow. I have a brand new manual to read!

[honkerman]

My last question is how do I know if the valves are tight or loose without taking the whole bike apart.

You only need to take a side panel off and some of the CVT cover to get to the cylinder head to check the valves according to the manual. Not a lot of room to work with, but looks doable. Additionally, you need a set of feeler gauges. The acceptable clearance is .004" for the intake and .009" for the exhaust, with a tolerance of .001" either way. That's 0.10mm intake or 0.24mm for the exhaust, give or take 0.02mm on either one.

[Mike888]

Thanks for the informative help, I really appreciate it. When I got my scooter it didn't come with a manual. I have another question how do you change out the coolant. Also how many bottle of Honda motorcycle coolant do you need

[Mike888]

Also how do you prevent air bubble when bleeding. Also what would happen if air did get in while bleeding

[Mike888]

Wait I just realized the drive oil is same as engine oil.

[honkerman]

Wait I just realized the drive oil is same as engine oil.

Yes, the crankcase and final drive do use the same grade of oil. The final drive uses much less of course.

As for avoiding air bubbles when you do a brake fluid replacement, so long as you do not completely empty the reservoir and allow any air to get into the master cylinder, this should not happen. When changing the fluid, it is the same process as a regular bleed, but you do not empty the system of fluid, you continue to add new fluid while the old fluid is being removed. Again, be careful to cover body panels and painted parts so brake fluid doesn't get on them as it will damage them.

There are many many videos on these processes, though I'd like to add my own eventually.

[honkerman]

Thanks for the informative help, I really appreciate it. When I got my scooter it didn't come with a manual. I have another question how do you change out the coolant. Also how many bottle of Honda motorcycle coolant do you need

The basic owner's manual is available as a PDF.

See the thread:
www.hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=17

As for the process of replacing the coolant, that is a process. There is a drain on the radiator itself, and one on the engine. I'll try to post a quick video tomorrow to avoid posting out of the manual directly. Anyway, once the system is drained, it needs to be refilled with a 50/50 coolant water mixture. there is a process for bleeding the air out of the system as well. Like I said, I'll try to post a video.

[WhiteNoise]

Hi Mike888 can you tell us where you're located? Please add this info to your profile - I have simple directions below to get that done. Thank ya!

[Mike888]

Ok thank you so much

[Mike888]

So for changing out brake fluid can I do the top reservoir first by hooking it up by the top nipple. After I drain I would fill it back up making sure it does not go empty. The process is I ask someone to hold on brake and I release the screw to nipple. After I tighten nut and ask the person to pump the brake and then repeat the process all over again

[honkerman]

So for changing out brake fluid can I do the top reservoir first by hooking it up by the top nipple. After I drain I would fill it back up making sure it does not go empty. The process is I ask someone to hold on brake and I release the screw to nipple. After I tighten nut and ask the person to pump the brake and then repeat the process all over again

Not exactly, you're draining and filling at the same time. The system should not go completely dry or you will end up needing to bleed the air out that you will have introduced to the system.

[Mike888]

Since I have two resovior do I need to do both at the same time or can I do the out first and then the inside later. Can you describe the process of how to change the fluid. Thanks

[honkerman]

Since I have two resovior do I need to do both at the same time or can I do the out first and then the inside later. Can you describe the process of how to change the fluid. Thanks

I don't see why you'd absolutely have to change both at once, but if I were doing the service on a customer's bike, I'd do both. I'd do a how-to video, but it's freezing out and too windy...I wouldn't want little waterspouts appearing in the reservoir

Step 1: place clean cloths over the areas of the bike where you will be working to protect those areas from brake fluid spills. As stated before, brake fluid will mar paint and plastic.

Step 2: remove the two screws from the brake reservoir lid. Carefully remove the lid.

Step 3: place an appropriate size box end wrench/spanner on the bleeder nipple for the line you will be working on and crack it open about 1/4-1/2 turn, having a tube and receptacle attached to catch the discarded fluid. It is important that the wrench size be correct because you do not want to round off the nut on the nipple. Round nipples are appropriate in certain situations, but not on brake calipers.

Anyway, moving on.

Step 4: close the nipple, pump the brake lever, open the nipple, repeat. Add fluid to the reservoir while doing this so that the reservoir does not empty. Repeat until the color of the brake fluid coming out of the nipple is the color of the new fluid.

Close the nipple, firmly, but not too firmly, optionally with a torque rating of 4.4 ft lb if you have a torque wrench. 52.8 inch pounds.

Check the level in the reservoir and make sure the fluid is at least halfway up the window on the side. Close the reservoir and carefully snug down the screws.

I will try to do a walkthrough vid later, but the wind is too much at present. I think I pretty much got it all though.