Seized Engine

[phishypenguin]

Hello,

I was hoping to get some advice on what to do with my 2010 PCX. I've had it for two years and it has racked up 23k miles. I've always taken it to the Honda dealership for any work/services that it has needed, however I made the mistake of not checking my oil recently and two weeks ago the engine let go. At first it just coasted to a halt - then after waiting 5mins I tried to go on again as I wanted to get off the motorway I was on, but only managed half a mile before it started smoking and ground to a halt.

Upon taking it to the dealership, I've been told there is no compression and that they can't know for certain what the problem is without taking it apart but it would seem that the engine is seized. After being quoted £1000 for a rebuild I decided to buy something new, but I'm not sure what to do with my PCX now. I would like to have a go at trying to fix it myself, however I'm not sure what the cost of trying to do so myself would be and whether someone with no experience in this area could do so? Alternatively I was told by the dealership that I should just break it and sell it for parts or as it is - does anyone have any idea what sort of money I would get for breaking a PCX?

Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated!

Patrick

[pcxpower]

I'm sorry about that... perhaps you can have a look at your local eBay, or if you have some local websites like "Craigslist" in the States and see if they sell PCX parts and their prices? Also, you could purchase a wrecked PCX and use the motor?

[gn2]

eBay has complete motors for sale: Linky.
Linky 2
If you don't want the hassle, just sell your PCX as is for spares or repair.

[phishypenguin]

Thank you both for the replies. I've taken a look at the engines on ebay before - I'm assuming this is probably the best place to source an engine? In terms of fitting an engine - is it simply a case of just removing the old one, putting in a new one and connecting up all the cables?

[Alibally]

Thank you both for the replies. I've taken a look at the engines on ebay before - I'm assuming this is probably the best place to source an engine? In terms of fitting an engine - is it simply a case of just removing the old one, putting in a new one and connecting up all the cables?

You could try local bike breakers as well. You'll need to watch though , as I assume your in the UK, there are 2 different types of engine.
If yours is a 2010 then it's the earlier one, it's not the ESP engine you want.

Swapping it is easy enough if your reasonably mechanically competent. It's probably harder getting the plastics off without breaking them.

[homie]

is it simply a case of just removing the old one, putting in a new one and connecting up all the cables?

I doubt it will be plug & play
Your piston probably looks like this and the cylinder walls as bad. I did this to a snow blower no oil and seize, all done. The rings are melted to the piston

[Steph]

My Husband did this to a lawn mower.

[gn2]

In terms of fitting an engine - is it simply a case of just removing the old one, putting in a new one and connecting up all the cables?

Yes.
Then once fitted it either just runs or the fun starts.......

[phishypenguin]

Thanks for all the replies and advice. Think I'll try and strip it down to see what the damage is and then decide from there!

[sendler2112]

If you are able to do the work yourself at your leisure, now would be the time to put in a big bore kit. But then you would also have to spend some additional money to get the fueling right.

[homie]

If you are able to do the work yourself at your leisure, now would be the time to put in a big bore kit. But then you would also have to spend some additional money to get the fueling right.

It would be nice to have a new one and one to go crazy with all manor of mods and performance parts... but I guess you'd have to love it like a hobby.

[GARETT0439]

Parts are extremely cheap for these engines. They are cheaper than any other engine I have ever seen by far.
I would rebuild it since the piston and cylinder can be replaced in a few hours.
Piston:20$
Rings: 8$
Wrist pin and clips:2.50$
Cylinder:40$
Head gasket: 4$

Even if your top end it destroyed valves are only 5$ for the intake and 13$ for exhaust!

[GARETT0439]

I shop at bikebandit; here's a link to the schematic for a 2011 PCX 125. I believe that's your generation. Can anyone confirm?
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/201 ... #sch691747

[wei2go]

Eish. That reminds me. I need to check my oil levels

[homie]

I shop at bikebandit; here's a link to the schematic for a 2011 PCX 125. I believe that's your generation. Can anyone confirm?
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/201 ... #sch691747

wow! this site is massive, I have been stuck in their since you posted it bunch of good stuff and interesting topics in the blog section like wind noise and hearing damage.

[gn2]

Parts are extremely cheap for these engines. They are cheaper than any other engine I have ever seen by far.
I would rebuild it since the piston and cylinder can be replaced in a few hours.
Piston:20$
Rings: 8$
Wrist pin and clips:2.50$
Cylinder:40$
Head gasket: 4$

Even if your top end it destroyed valves are only 5$ for the intake and 13$ for exhaust!

OP is in the UK, prices here are very different.

[maddiedog]

If I were in your position, I would find an engine from the same generation PCX off of a wrecked bike and just do an engine swap. It'll be less work and possibly less cost than replacing the top end, especially if there's damage to the head.

Plus, there's a handy how-to I made for removing the engine specifically applicable to your generation PCX. It should be easy with the tutorial. Here it is, and PM me if you get stuck or have any questions on the procedure: http://hondapcx.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2937

[phishypenguin]

Just to give an update on the engine. I've taken the whole thing apart to reveal the piston and cylinder with pictures attached. The piston doesn't appear to have much movement on the rod and I'm struggling to remove the piston head from the rod - is there an easy way to do this as I'm wary of putting too much pressure on it and snapping the rod.

The piston is obviously in a bad way and the cylinder has some marks on it too. I'm not too sure what the part where the valves are should look like - based on the picture would anyone be able to give me an idea of what the damage looks to be to that area? When I took the bike in originally I was told that you should replace the whole engine in the top and bottom, is there anything in particular that I should be looking for in terms of damage in the bottom end as taking all that apart seems to be a much more complex job!

Finally, many thanks to the detailed how to guides on this website, they've been invaluable in helping me get to the stage I'm at now!

[DAB]

How many miles was it before your last service, don't normally need a top up between services. Valves look ok for 23K.
Cant tell too much from the photo's, any marks on the cams/bearings. Need to check for movement of con rod/piston.
Doesn't look like its been burning oil to me.

[phishypenguin]

Last service was 16,500 miles, but i changed the oil at 19,000 as they said to change it every 2,500-3,000. I thought that would see me through until the next MOT this month. It's difficult to see much of the bottom end through the gap, but from what I can see there don't appear to be any marks on any of the components. It looks like there is oil when you look straight down through the gap which seems odd.

The connecting rod gives a little movement from side to side which is normal I think. The piston though is quite tough to spin on the rod and I'm finding it hard to get it off/push the pin through. I've attached a picture of the area that I mean.

Which parts are the cams? And what do you mean by it doesn't look like it has been burning oil?