2012 PCX 150 ESP mods to start with

[chicaboo]

Hi gang,

This week I take delivery of my first scooter (motorcycle for that matter) - a 2012 PCX 150 with less than 3000km.
One of the things I noticed on the test ride was that it had a significant flat spot between 50-80kph, which I've seen corroborated on dyno graphs.
My initial goals with the bike are to iron out this flat spot and replace the rear shocks since I'm quite big at 6'2" and 118kg (260lbs).

I'm going to start with either a cheap Bigrow exhaust or fancy Burial WGP twin exhaust from Webike and some rollers and contra spring (and maybe a windscreen?).
Most importantly I just want to free up the 1~1.5hp I see people getting on the dyno with an exhaust, and I'm hoping the rollers and spring will alleviate the flat spot.
I've read that if I disconnect the battery, the ECU should accommodate for the new exhaust pretty quickly. I will likely get the rollers and spring installed at a shop.

Since I have very limited riding experience, I'm not sure if I was feeling a headwind or just regular wind resistance above 70kph. Does a tall screen offer much relief?
I'm looking at the 55cm high World Walk screen at Webike. It sits almost as high as the mirros, so I'm guessing it would be inline with my neck or chin so I will be looking over it.

As far as the rollers go, I've read here that someone preferred 13g rollers to 10g. This is surprising, as Takegawa recommend 8.5g, and don't even offer anything over 10g.
Are roller weights affected by rider weight also, or do they just change the characteristic of the power delivery? I'm looking to get the Takegawa contra spring, but the cheapest rollers I can.
I just want faster acceleration to 80kph for now. The bike was pretty tired over 90kph, and only got to 95kph before I had to back off. It might do 100kph with a tailwind?

Is it recommended to get a HP variator and belt with only an exhaust? I've read that the profile of the vartiator can affect top speed, but I'm not sure this matters with only an exhaust?
Sometime down the track I may go all out with a Takegawa or Yuminashi BBK, cam, manifold, TB, injector and FIcon. But for now I just want the best bang for my buck to get me started.

For the rear shocks, everyone seems to like YSS. Bikerzbits have the YSS G-Euro and Z series shocks in XXL to suit my weight, all for a decent price.
The G-Euros are about $75 more expensive than the Zs. Do the reservoirs on the Gs offer anything worthwhile for the added expense for regular riding on smoother roads?

This is all I pretty much had in mind for my initial mods. For me, stage 2 might include upgraded valve springs and some sort of FIcon to raise my rev limit and increase top speed.
If you guys are happy to share your thoughts and opinions on the above I'd appreciate the feedback.
Cheers, Gav.

[chicaboo]

Hi all,

After doing some reading on here, a performance variator and reinforced belt seem like good options to start with. Although I don't know how they compare to a stock variator with upgraded contra spring and rollers? Is the difference significant?

How do Kitaco, Daytona, Takegawa and NCY shape up against each other? It they are all reputable, I don't mind voting with my wallet. Kitaco do a kit bundled with a fcon of sorts, which would be good for lifting the rev limit in conjunction with upgraded valve springs.

Cheers, Gav.

[Mel46]

Did the 150 come out as a 2012? We have 2 of the 2013 pcx 150s. One was purchased when they first hit the market here in the United States, in July of 2012 as a 2013 model.
I studied all of the comments on this forum concerning variator and other upgrades before I purchased a NCY variator, drive face (Make sure you get this as well as the variator if you want the greatest reward from the variator and rollers), and 13 gram rollers. They seemed to be the best bang for the buck. However, some members with the 125 installed the Yuminashi big bore kit, though they don't seem to have one for the 150 that will give you more than a 175 cc upgrade instead of closer to 200cc, which is what most of us would prefer.
As for the windshield, we had the mid height one for a short time and it really did not work out well. The wind would hit me between my chest and helmet. Then I purchased the tall Givin windshield and worked out much better. Consider getting the tallest windshield that will work on your bike. You won't regret it. It takes no time at all to swap them out if you wanted to swap back during hottest times of the year.

[chicaboo]

Hi Mel,

In Australia we classically refer to the year of manufacture as the year model, but this is not a hard and fast rule. I have the KF12(E), and for all intents and purposes here, it is referred to as a 2012 model for bill of sale, registration and insurance.

I will admit I know nothing about the drive face half of the variator. I assume this is the half that mounts against the engine side? It seems like NCY and Daytona have good reputations in the US. Not having a strong local distribution here, we are accustomed to having pay huge shipping costs for everything from overseas, so we tend to consider more options since they are equally as inconvenient to acquire... 13g rollers seem the treat so far for just an exhaust.

I'm not sure about a BBK at this stage, but I do want to have more revs. So a fcon, cam and valve springs seem like a good intermediate power boost for top end speed. Assuming the stock injector, TB and IM are good enough for such? I suspect a cam will require lighter rollers to get the revs higher into the power band before it hits 1:1 and rides the engine till it runs out of puff of hits rev cut.

Do you look through these taller windshields you have? I liked the idea of the intermediate height shield since I could get a smoked finish and look over it unless I'm tucked. I did see a tall shield on Webike, but it was significantly more expensive (and unattractive...). I'm changing to a full faced helmet, so wind on my head might not be a big deal unless I get a dual sport helmet with a beak. My current open face helmet with sun visor was pushing my head back when I exceeded 60kph or so...

Thanks Mel, Gav.

[Mel46]

I found that the taller windshield helped to divert the wind though I still look over it. Some of the forum members have even purchased the new, even taller, one made by some other company. Though the look a little strange, they make riding so much more fun. Read the current threads and you will see that we have recently discussed the mid height windshield with a spoiler on it vs the taller windshield. When the wind hit you mid chest it will slow you down more than if it hit a tall windshield and was diverted.
I can't say much about the Fcon except that I have heard most members say that the ecu is something you can't mess with, so any changes have to come from add on devices, such as a program able fcon. I don't think I would mess with that until I had done my other changes though. Then unplug the ecu so that it can re-learn before adjusting the fcon. Good luck.

[homie]

seat... you might want a decent seat

[chicaboo]

Hey homie,

The seat doesn't bother me, except I wish I had a backrest... I might get one of the seat bags to lean back on and lose the top box?

[Mel46]

I have a top box and I created a back rest that backs up against the top box. It is strapped onto the seat. My wife made a cover for it to protect it. I found some packing from one of the boxes our TV came in. I don't know what it is so I can't call it Styrofoam, though it may be a version of it. In any case, it has some give to it so it works well agains my lower back. After 6 back surgeries I have to have something to lean back against ever so often.

[chicaboo]

I've seen the SX-Appeal Pak-Rest seat bag back rest and the Utopia backrest that bolts to the seat.

[chicaboo]

Hi gang,

Based on Mel's advise - going off the images at Webike, the only variator kit with a drive face is by Kitaco (http://japan.webike.net/products/21552400.html or http://japan.webike.net/products/21552399.html), which appears to reuse the stock variator cap/plate and stockish 15g rollers... I like that they offer a kit with the iMap to raise the rev limit and provide a tune for an exhaust. Obviously this will need upgraded Yuminashi valve springs to avoid float, 10~13g rollers, and a reinforced belt. Then one might as well get a Yuminashi 8.6mm lift cam/rockers to go with them!

My understanding is the stock rev limit is ~9300rpm, so does anyone know if the 150cc can handle 10,500-11,000rpm for short periods without grenading? I guess the bike would only rev out so high if I was trying to do high speed runs, which I'm not really interested in... Well, maybe once or twice.

Alternatively, and for significantly more cost, Scooterworks sell a complete tranny kit for the PCX125 sans belt, boss and gaskets (https://www.scooterworks.com/Parts-C1.a ... SC&ps=5000). I'm not sure this even fits the 150, nor was I looking to replace the whole clutch. I was just going to get a contra spring and maybe the 3 little clutch shoe springs. But the NCY products do exude quality.

Does anyone have any feedback on the Kitaco kit or their iMap unit? The NCY stuff already receives high praise, but the cost is prohibitive. I still can't find a complete Daytona kit.


Cheers, Gav.