As I'm currently temporarily disabled (10 screws and a plate in the knee) started to work on my new runabout.
I have a 2013 PCX 125 with quite some mods on it, and bought a crashed 2015 LED model (mainly because the larger tank and the led lights) for peanuts to slowly migrate to. However once I'm there I take my time and make it the way I want to have it.
What is going to be moved from the existing commuter:
Upgraded suspension front anf rear (YSS PD valves and custom front springs at the front and YSS Z series rear shocks)
Malossi Multivar 2000 with DrPulley sliders
EBC front brake setup (sintered pads, wave rotor, braided lines)
Simota air filter
bluetooth programmable Enigma fuel controller
Heated grips & Heidenau K66 tires (as I use the scooter all year around)
What gets installed under the hood:
Ported and polished PCX150 head
Yuminashi flat deck 164cc big bore kit
CBR 150 injector and 31mm throttle body
Yuminashi Sports camshaft
Custom air intake
Hybrid final gear setup (mix and match of cheap PCX125, PCX150 amd Honda Vario150i gears) to reach +13% gearing
Wideband O2 sensor to finalize fuel delivery
128 kg wet weight, about 18hp twist and go what turns on a dime and barely sips fuel (with my riding style in stock form mine consumes about 2.2-2-4 liters/100km expected to go up to 2.6-2.7 after the mods) and with a tucano urbano, heated grips and seat it gets me anywhere all year 'round.
p.s. this is going to be a performance mods/build report. With all bells and whistles - not calculating my time what I actually enjoy wrenching- I will be still below the local market price of a similar age PCX125 LED. I'm a Honda guy, considered the Nmax, but thanks not - and again I'll be about a grand below the current going price for a used Nmax 125 with significantly better suspension and bigger grin factor.
Work in progress
Moderator: Modsquad
Re: Work in progress
Let me chime in a little. Notice something. Sorry about your knee though. What happened?
1/ Make sure and test out the gearing to see if they'll actually work together. I installed a Kitaco gear on a PCX125 non-esp gear box. The Kitaco gear destroyed itself and its counter gear, such a damn shame.
2/ Get a much better battery. I've learned my lesson about tuning a fuel injected bike is that when you put in a bigger injector, you're leaking and lowering the stock fuel pressure (regulated only by the stock fuel pump inside the tank). This will put strains on the stock fuel pump. I discussed this a lot with Reggy (Yuminashi owner) and he confirmed that the greatest obstacle in tuning a big bored fuel injected bike is the stock fuel pump itself. So why get a bigger battery? I figure the pump will draw more current to keep fuel pressure within stock values. I encountered this myself, the scooter will run fine and then suddenly gives up, loss of power everywhere and used to think it was an ECU problem but turns out the stock battery got drained so much and remember, the amount of power you charged back into the battery is constant since the charger is built into the ECU itself. You should install a battery check meter. Keep an eye on that thing because when the battery gets weak, the pump suffers and so does your power.
3/ Number 2 is actually why I switched to a carburetor setup. I got frustrated with fuel injection problems. Now as I have disconnected the power to the fuel pump (which itself is a huge power sucker) I got free power and my battery is actually strong enough to spin the engine fairly easy in the morning.
Just my 2 cents.
1/ Make sure and test out the gearing to see if they'll actually work together. I installed a Kitaco gear on a PCX125 non-esp gear box. The Kitaco gear destroyed itself and its counter gear, such a damn shame.
2/ Get a much better battery. I've learned my lesson about tuning a fuel injected bike is that when you put in a bigger injector, you're leaking and lowering the stock fuel pressure (regulated only by the stock fuel pump inside the tank). This will put strains on the stock fuel pump. I discussed this a lot with Reggy (Yuminashi owner) and he confirmed that the greatest obstacle in tuning a big bored fuel injected bike is the stock fuel pump itself. So why get a bigger battery? I figure the pump will draw more current to keep fuel pressure within stock values. I encountered this myself, the scooter will run fine and then suddenly gives up, loss of power everywhere and used to think it was an ECU problem but turns out the stock battery got drained so much and remember, the amount of power you charged back into the battery is constant since the charger is built into the ECU itself. You should install a battery check meter. Keep an eye on that thing because when the battery gets weak, the pump suffers and so does your power.
3/ Number 2 is actually why I switched to a carburetor setup. I got frustrated with fuel injection problems. Now as I have disconnected the power to the fuel pump (which itself is a huge power sucker) I got free power and my battery is actually strong enough to spin the engine fairly easy in the morning.
Just my 2 cents.
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Oyabun
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Re: Work in progress
Hello BPT,
Thanks for the heads up.
1, I remember when you have posted that you guys had issues with the kitaco gear. This combination is tested - and done in pairs all gonna be fine.
2, A high cranking capacity LiPo is on the way already. Do you have a parts catalogue for the Vario? (I guess you are using that one) My assumption is that the PCX due to its start-stop system and the dynastarter should have higher charging capacity. Also this new bike is the LED model already - so my lighting consumes about 7-10 watts instead of the standard 3x35w + extras on low beam and 2x50w+extras on high. So my assumption is that I'll have some extra. Also currently building in a direct lead to charge and balance the LiPo battery - so worst case I can connect it once a week for a full charge.
3, I got you - however a carb is not option for me at this point. I'm using the bike all year 'round so it has to be reliably run in 40 degC summer as well as -10C winter. And I also have access to a dyno so it will have a proper tune.
One question though. Is it possible to install the decompressor on the Yuminashi camshaft? It would make the starting much easier.
Thanks for the heads up.
1, I remember when you have posted that you guys had issues with the kitaco gear. This combination is tested - and done in pairs all gonna be fine.
2, A high cranking capacity LiPo is on the way already. Do you have a parts catalogue for the Vario? (I guess you are using that one) My assumption is that the PCX due to its start-stop system and the dynastarter should have higher charging capacity. Also this new bike is the LED model already - so my lighting consumes about 7-10 watts instead of the standard 3x35w + extras on low beam and 2x50w+extras on high. So my assumption is that I'll have some extra. Also currently building in a direct lead to charge and balance the LiPo battery - so worst case I can connect it once a week for a full charge.
3, I got you - however a carb is not option for me at this point. I'm using the bike all year 'round so it has to be reliably run in 40 degC summer as well as -10C winter. And I also have access to a dyno so it will have a proper tune.
One question though. Is it possible to install the decompressor on the Yuminashi camshaft? It would make the starting much easier.
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Oyabun
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Re: Work in progress
I've just checked in my service manual. The alternator output is 308 watts on the PCX.
Can you confirm if that is similar to the Vario?
THX
Can you confirm if that is similar to the Vario?
THX
Re: Work in progress
1/ great for you then. I have absolutely no luck with any aftermarket gears.Oyabun wrote:Hello BPT,
Thanks for the heads up.
1, I remember when you have posted that you guys had issues with the kitaco gear. This combination is tested - and done in pairs all gonna be fine.
2, A high cranking capacity LiPo is on the way already. Do you have a parts catalogue for the Vario? (I guess you are using that one) My assumption is that the PCX due to its start-stop system and the dynastarter should have higher charging capacity. Also this new bike is the LED model already - so my lighting consumes about 7-10 watts instead of the standard 3x35w + extras on low beam and 2x50w+extras on high. So my assumption is that I'll have some extra. Also currently building in a direct lead to charge and balance the LiPo battery - so worst case I can connect it once a week for a full charge.
3, I got you - however a carb is not option for me at this point. I'm using the bike all year 'round so it has to be reliably run in 40 degC summer as well as -10C winter. And I also have access to a dyno so it will have a proper tune.
One question though. Is it possible to install the decompressor on the Yuminashi camshaft? It would make the starting much easier.
2/ You can find it right here. http://www.astra-honda.com/index.php/do ... ku-cadang/
3/ A carburetor is not for everyone
. I run it with a pod air filter and it's kinda sensitive to weather and temperature. Typical of a carburetor by the way 
4/ You cannot install decompressor on a Yuminashi camshaft
. 5/ Did you buy the double springs set from Yuminashi too? I bought the one that comes with retainers and somehow I feel like the retainers don't fit into the spring body. Like when you push the retainer into the spring, it should click and the 2 parts come together. The retainers that come with my set is very big compared to the inner spring body and I can't push it in to fit snuggly. like in this picture.
- Screen Shot 2016-07-26 at 17.35.14.png (479.48 KiB) Viewed 1440 times
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Oyabun
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Re: Work in progress
I have bought a set with the 150 head, big bore (I just deciphered that they use light bore 164 for low- big bore 164 for high compression sets) piston and copper gasket set together with the dual springs - as I already had a 164cc cylinder which was used with the 125 head. Guess what - the set cane with the stock springs. So they have sent them separately - I'll comment on them when they arrive.
However as I understand the sonic 125 dual springs and retainers should fit and they are good to until like 12k RPM.
I have just finished with the head porting and polishing -as I was not really impressed with how it arrived. The ports had serious casting marks left and as the valve guides were inserted they left very bad edges and crannies behind in the ports with the mill. Also sharp edges on the combustion chamber side. Made some port moulds to understand if there is anything what seariously limiting flow and made some very minor adjustments to the port ceiling and sides and also around the valve guides. Nothing major just slight adjustments. Also meticoulosly matched the intake and exhaust so there are no major flaws there. I'm not sure if I will bring it to get the head flow measured - but I'm confident it is much better suited for the large camshaft openings now.
No wonder that Yumi had cylinder head gasket leaking as the head surface was quite screwed. Scratches, milling marks - so I had to lap the head surface with almost 0.08mm to get it surfaced properly.
I also had to change a few bearings also as only after 7k kilometer the bike had the clutch bearings and the counterhaft bearing gone. If it would be easier to do I'd have changed the input shaft bearing also as it has some strange feeling to it - but I have left it for now. The gearbox is turning smooth and nice with the stuff installed as of now. Will report on the gearing if you need so. What gearing options have you tried so far?
Also what injectors and which throttle bodies did you use before changing to carburetor?
However as I understand the sonic 125 dual springs and retainers should fit and they are good to until like 12k RPM.
I have just finished with the head porting and polishing -as I was not really impressed with how it arrived. The ports had serious casting marks left and as the valve guides were inserted they left very bad edges and crannies behind in the ports with the mill. Also sharp edges on the combustion chamber side. Made some port moulds to understand if there is anything what seariously limiting flow and made some very minor adjustments to the port ceiling and sides and also around the valve guides. Nothing major just slight adjustments. Also meticoulosly matched the intake and exhaust so there are no major flaws there. I'm not sure if I will bring it to get the head flow measured - but I'm confident it is much better suited for the large camshaft openings now.
No wonder that Yumi had cylinder head gasket leaking as the head surface was quite screwed. Scratches, milling marks - so I had to lap the head surface with almost 0.08mm to get it surfaced properly.
I also had to change a few bearings also as only after 7k kilometer the bike had the clutch bearings and the counterhaft bearing gone. If it would be easier to do I'd have changed the input shaft bearing also as it has some strange feeling to it - but I have left it for now. The gearbox is turning smooth and nice with the stuff installed as of now. Will report on the gearing if you need so. What gearing options have you tried so far?
Also what injectors and which throttle bodies did you use before changing to carburetor?
Re: Work in progress
I installed mine as is. I bought the 150 head from honda Thailand, got a friend coming there so I figured why not, it's cheaper, I was on very tight budget.
Honda quality is no joke. It's ugly as hell though. You should see mine at the cam chain hole.
I'm getting Sonic springs right now. Somehow my spring set was faulty as the retainer does not fit the springs so they're sending me another set of retainers for free, but I still want to take a look at that famous Sonic spring set. I got some picture (not mine) of the Sonic springs.
I'm staying with stock gearing, tight budget + too much hassle.
I tried:
1/ Stock 24mm TB, CBR150 injector. Not good.
2/ 31mm TB, CBR150 injector. Best, but not good.
3/ 35mm TB, CBR150 injector. Nope. Too damn lean. Surging everywhere.
4/ 35mm TB, 10 hole Forza 300 injector. Nope. Too damn rich. BLACK SMOKE. I did not think that I'd ever get black smoke out of a FI bike.
I don't have a controller. Plus now I figure the problem with FI tuning lies much deeper than TB, injectors, etc. It's in the fuel pump.
So I switched. But I really hope you get better results than mine.
Honda quality is no joke. It's ugly as hell though. You should see mine at the cam chain hole.
I'm getting Sonic springs right now. Somehow my spring set was faulty as the retainer does not fit the springs so they're sending me another set of retainers for free, but I still want to take a look at that famous Sonic spring set. I got some picture (not mine) of the Sonic springs.
I'm staying with stock gearing, tight budget + too much hassle.
I tried:
1/ Stock 24mm TB, CBR150 injector. Not good.
2/ 31mm TB, CBR150 injector. Best, but not good.
3/ 35mm TB, CBR150 injector. Nope. Too damn lean. Surging everywhere.
4/ 35mm TB, 10 hole Forza 300 injector. Nope. Too damn rich. BLACK SMOKE. I did not think that I'd ever get black smoke out of a FI bike.
I don't have a controller. Plus now I figure the problem with FI tuning lies much deeper than TB, injectors, etc. It's in the fuel pump.
So I switched. But I really hope you get better results than mine.